JSS28DN3WW General Electric Range - Instructions

Removed burners and existing drip bowls and installed new drip bowls and existing burners took approximately 15 minutes

Top front sloping sheet metal panel with all controls and plastic end caps has to come off. Need 2 people, one to hold it while other replaces switch. Problem was getting screw holes on bottom ends lined up and cuts from sheet metal edges. Ten minutes to get it apart, 40 to get it back together. New switch works fine.

pull out, push in

I was very excited to get them in the mail but waited to install after a clean up but when I finally opened the box I found I only ordered 1 6 inch drip bowl. lol Now that I know they fit when I reorder I am ordering a who new set for later use.

Removed two screws holding the housing in place and loosened two more on the back it order to free it. Switch was held i place with two screws, removed those. Transfered wires one by one on the new switch, which was identical OEM part, and replaced the screws. VERY simple.

removed 2 screws that hold the cover in place, inserted the new panel at the bottom, pushed top in place and reapplied the 2 screws.

My husband had already removed the back plate form the stove and detached the wires from the old burner switch because it was keeping the burner on. He unscrewed the old switch and removed it. He then popped in the new switch, attached the wires to the correct contacts, and put the back plate back on. We plugged in the stove, and that burner works good as new.

No repair needed, element fitted right in.

As many people have encountered, my oven would not heat but the igniter would be bright orange and glow! Over time, the igniter wears and degrades causing oxidation to the surface. This cause the igniter to fail and operate at a lower current level, below 2.8 amps! Normal igniters operator over 3.0 to 3.1 amps. When is happens, a low current igniter does not have enough input to the control valve to tell the valve to open to allow gas to flow over the igniter to light the oven, thus heat the oven! This has got to be the NUMBER one reason for an oven not heating!

replaced oven clock control ref maintenance manual, 4 screws and 8 wires. plugged in new control and op checks good.

took the back panel off the range, took the 2 screws holding the switch in place, took the old switch out, marked the wires took the wires off and clipped them onto the new switch, put the new switch into the switch plate, replaced the screws put on the knob, put the panel back on the range. rolled the range back into it's place. turned the buner on to check if it worked. It did so we were done.

verified switch operation , checked continuity of burner element found open ordered new part and installed next day
after extremely fast
service from partselect thank you

Isolated to control switch.

Replaced

removed the top section on stove and removed the wires off swtitch and put on new one then put new switch in

Installation team. A personal comment--your representative, John, that I spoke with this afternoon was very helpful when I called to question a charge on my credit card statement, and you can be certain that if I have need of an appliance part again, I will think of your firm first.U.L.S. Emory, Texas.