JSD2789GES Jenn-Air Refrigerator - Instructions

These so called factory trained techs, at least the ones that looked at my fridge don't know jack. I explained my problem, they replaced T-Stat refridge side, onother time they replaced door gasket, still not cold enough, found your website,
got all the answers. Ordered and installed,defrost
heater and T stat assy and adaptive defrost control. Remove shelves freezer side, remove evaporator cover 1/4" nutdriver ,defrost with hair
drier, unsnap elec. connector and relaced part.
The ADC, removed screws mounted on roofside
was able to lower plastic panel enough to unplug
the ADC, it just laid there, removed and replaced.
Don't know which part was bad, but I do know that
they are interconnected, at this point I din't care to defrost manually which I did for the last 7 months.
Thanks for your guidance. USMC Ross

This was very easy. I removed all the shelves in the freezer compartment. I removed two nutscrews to remove the back wall. Then I removed the little radiator looking part by removing two more nutscrews. I unplugged the old thermostat assembly and installed the new one exactly like I removed it, then I reversed the procedure to put it all back together. Very easy my wife could have done it. ThANKS!! to Parts Select for the help of all the blogs I read before doing the job.

First I hired a repairman to fix it who charged $125 to defrost the cooling coils then said the defrost heater would need to be replaced for $125+labor. He had the wrong part and was going to charge me >3x the price it would have been from Partselect.com too. I figure I saved a minimum of $250 vs having him do the work then charge me yet again for the right part.

Should have just done this myself from the start and saved another $125. Information about the cause, how to test and what parts would be needed were all easy to find online once I actually searched.

Unplugged fridge.

Using diagrams from PartSelect.com and other information online anb defrosted coils with hair-dryer. (This requires removing two screws in back of freezer compartment using nut-driver to remove the panels covering coils... literally a two minute job to expose coils!)

Then found and tested defrost heater.
Defrost heater was fine. Per information online problem then had to be Adaptive Frost Control (ADA) circuit board.

In refrigerator compartment:
1) Removed top housing cover (covers lights, temp controls, etc.) This required removing a single screw (with nut-driver) attaching it to back and depressing two locking tabs near the back on either side. Slide it forward and down. The only tricky part of this repair is getting the locking tabs positioned correctly to get the plastic cover off. I did break the left one although it cover is still firmly in place in this case.)

2) Removed entire assembly from roof of fridge. involves loosening two large headed screws above lights and removing two hex-head screws with nut-driver above either side of temp controls. Next slide slightly to the right to disengage the two large-headed screws (or remove them completely... it seemed easier to just leave them in place.) Dropped front end of control assembly down.

3) Opened plastic box surrounding ADA and pried open locking tab holding it to wiring. Connected new board and set ADA assembly back in place.

4) Put everything back together.

Plugged fridge in and all was well. Exposed the coils again a few days later and they were not frosted up at all.

Total time to replace the ADA was about 20 minutes. Total time for everything including defrosting coils, testing, replacing parts, etc. was an hour max.

Removed the ice bucket from the freezer. Removed the single screw on the left side with a nut driver, then lift and pull the tray toward you...there is a wiring harness in back of the tray that I had to unplug...easy, pinch the sides of the plastic connector and it disconnects..and the tray came out of the refrigerator...and the cussing started. Since the threaded yoke was stripped it could not be unscrewed from the motor shaft...I took my trusty Dremel Tool and cut the shaft off so the yoke could be separated from the motor shaft and the motor could be removed from the plastic housing. From here on it was a piece of cake...install the new motor and screw the new yoke onto the motor shaft... I think it has a left handed thread, like the old propane bottles used to have..slide the tray back in, reconnect the wiring harness (it only plugs in one way), make sure the tray is sitting on the 4 side supports, put the single screw on the left side and you are done....put the ice bucket back in and flip the bail down and you should be back on business....!!

I Removed the two wires from the old relay. I Then pulled the old relay off the compressor. Next, I had to get the overload seperated from the old burnt relay, which took some care not to break. The old relay and overload is in a plastic compartment. Then I followed the directions that came with the new relay. The only confusion came with getting the two wires back onto the terminals of the new relay, mainly because the old relay was burnt so badly I didn't have any idea how it was originally wired. I crossed the two wires on the terminals of the relay. The compressor would click off and on, but would not start blowing cold air. I swapped the wires on the terminals and it started working immediately.

Very simple. Matched female plugs with respective male color coded prong; pushed together then inserted unit in slot of freezer sidewall and rotated into position...job done.

UNPLUG YOUR FRIDGE BEFORE YOU START> First I removed the shroud covering the lights and controls in the top of the refrigerator side. This was the hardest part, actually. Their are two indentations on the back of the cover and it is really hard to pull that cover off. Anyhow, once you do that, their are two screws, one by each light bulb in the top of the fridge that need to be removed. Their are also three hex head screws that need to be removed, two in the front corners of the assembly, one in the center, back of the fridge. Take those out and the whole assembly drops down. In the back right had corner of the assembly is the adaptive defrost control. Unplug it and set it aside. Plug the new one in. Put everything back together and you are back in business.

I don't know anything about repairing a refrigerator - I'm a computer tech. I noticed that the outside of the fridge was warm to the touch and the inside was not getting as cold as it should. I took the lower back panel behind the fridge off and noticed that the fan was not spinning. The local parts dealers did not have the condenser fan motor that was needed but they did say that they do go bad. I decided to order one from PartSelect.com and do it myself. Using a 1/4 inch nut driver and a flat head screw driver to pry the old motor out of the casing, I got the job done in about an hour or so. It's a relativly easy job. Besides the ouside panel screws, there's 3 screws on the inside near the fan blades you have to reach in to get. Pop out the whole assembly, unscrew the nut that holds the blades on and pry out the old motor and replace.. Try it yourself and save a couple hundred bucks!

Just pulled out ice bucket put to the side and then pulled out framed housing that surrounds the ice bucket tray and put on table
went in the rear where the turn motor is and disconnected the wires from the housing next to it and disconnected the motor which had cracked the wal it was mounted to and broke and fell which left a huge hole and the , took the 4 screws out and remounted it onto the new housing rear wall, note that to get the twist key lever that unscrews clock wise you may have to hit wit a hammer bluntly to brak it lose first then it unscrews easy, but this has to be done first before re assembly of the motor as it goes through the new housing wall , once this is donr then put your screw end through the hole and re assemble the wing devise back onto the moter screw drive which it will screw on counter clockwise and tap a few quick times to snug with a ball hamer or a small hammer, T
The hinge door pin is real easy, just unscrew the top of door 3 screwa and lift off the door set aside put new door pin hinge on then set the door back onto the pin hole align up and set it back down in the hinge hole and replace screws on the upper door hinge on top of fridge. all this took about 5 minutes tops, it took me more time to take all the items out of the doorway of my fridge that it did to do the task itself. Hope this could help.

Removed about 6 screws. Replaced the solenoid and door kit. Replaced the screws. These parts were easy to replace. They were also super easy to identify and order from the site. I received them two days after I placed my order.
Thanks partselect.com!

Received the union I ordered, then discovered that the tubes were different sizes, so I had the wrong part. I had read elsewhere that it was necessary to trim the two ends of the tubes with a box cutter to stop the leaks - I did this, and the leaking stopped. I was then able to go to a local hardware store and get a 5/16 to 1/4 union and replace it. The leaking is stopped, and the water supply in the door is now working like new. No problem with partselect, but I did buy a caliper so that I can check tube diameters if I ever have a similar problem! This is a great site to find instructions - well worth the time to search!

followed the instructions provided and that's it!

My husband first replaced the Defrost heater and the fridge still didn't stay cold. We had to defrost the freezer once a week and the fridge would stay cold for a few days, but after we replaced the Thermostat Assembly it worked GREAT! Thank you all for your comments and suggestions it saved us hundreds of dollars having to replace an, otherwise, perfectly fine fridge. Good luck to you if you have this problem, it was sooo fast and easy to replace these parts and totally worth the money.

1. Turn off fridge and Pull plug from wall.
1a. Turn OFF water supply!
2. Remove rear dust cover to gain access to water valve.
3. Mark power connectors(red/green) attached to water valve before removing them. Remove connectors.
4. Remove supply line from old valve.
5. loosen mounting screw holding old valve in place.
6. remove valve.
7. disconnect two plastic water lines from valve.
8. Cut 1/2 inch off the end of each plastic line to get to un-streached line. Make sure you have enough line to still reach valve!
9. Insert plastic lines FIRMLY into outlets of NEW VALVE to lock in place. outlets are different sizes so you can't reverse them!
10. Install new valve and tighten mounting screw.
11. replace/tighten supply line to new valve.
13. Replace dust cover!
14. Plug in, Turn on fridge.
15. Turn on water supply, bleed air out by drawing a glass of water at door, and check for leaks!
All Done!

Icecubes came out half-way, and refrooze. I figured out, that the melter does not work (HEATER in the icemaker) Voltage measured 105V no load. Studied the Internet, and folloved an advice: shorted the back wire and the blackwire with white stripes.these go to relay contacts. It seems, that the relay contacts are no good on Infrared receiver boaed. I turn off manually the icemaker, when needed