JNM1541LP2CS General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Unplug appliance, Staring from the rear sides, remove the four side screws. Remove the left and right front screws and finally the front center screw. The bottom panel hinges down toward the rear . Unplug the input wires from the sockets . Unscrew the two retainer screws (one each) and pull the sockets out of the panel. Note that the retainer screws are shouldered. The shoulder fits through the elongated slot in the socket. Screw the bulb into the socket and insert through the mounting hole. Insert and tighten the mounting screws. Note that the sockets may appear to be a bit loose. That's OK because of the shouldered screw. Don't over tighten or you risk stripping the threads of the panel. Plug in the input sockets and install the panel screws in the reverse order of removal. Plug the appliance in and test the bulbs.

Opened the microwave oven door, unscrewed two screws which held the control panel on, then I removed two of the door switches (each had two screws), and then used the continuity tester to see which one was not operating. It turned out to be the secondary door switch, replaced it and to my amazement, the microwave worked. I have never repaired an appliance before but I didn't want to replace our over-the-stove built in microwave. It was the best day ever when it was working again! The hardest part was getting myself to try the repair.

Installation of the damper was effortless but removing the microwave, cutting holes vertically through an overhead cabinet then installing ducting with a ninety degree bend, through another cabinet, and then through outside wall consumed most of the time and effort.Your service, packaging, and timely (next day!) were extremely helpful.

First, there are three door operated switches in this model. The monitor sw, the secondary sw (both of these are on the bottom in the same bracket) and the door sensing sw on top. The door sensing and secondary switches are both N.O. and have the same part number (probably why you show just two switches). The monitor sw is N.C. and it was not my problem. The secondary sw was bad on my oven but I had replaced the door sensing sw (which wasn't bad) on a previous order and kept the old one so I used it to make the repair. All three switches can be accessed without removing the oven by removing the discharge louver (remove two flat head screws on top and slide the louver to the left) then carefully remove the control panel (one screw on top and lift out). The switches are held in place by a plastic tongue that fits into the rear mounting hole on the switch. I used a common screw driver with a small tip to gently lift the tongue and slide the switch out with needle nose pliers. The new switch just snaps back in. The switch holder bracket looks like it would be easily broken so be gentle. I don't know what the symptoms would be if either of the other switches were bad so I would recommend buying all three and you would have them if one of the others failed in the future. The information I gave on the switches came from a schematic I found inside the control box. Hope this is helpful.

I tried to replace a light bulb over the cook stove without turning off the power supply. The light socket had deteriorated and the bulb base shorted out on the microwave frame. I ordered new sockets and bulbs. Replacing them was s simple matter with the power off. However, there was still no lights working with the power on. I pulled to cover off on top of the microwave (two screws) and checked the fuse. Continuity test showed it to be ok. Next I pulled the cover off the control panel and pulled out the mother board. On the back side I noticed two burnt pins. I applied solder with a solder gun to replace the burnt off solder. I put it all back together and it works fine.

I thought I could just unscrew the bulbs in the SpacemakerXL Microwave Oven. The bulbs melted into the bulb socket so every attempt to unscrew the bulb with pliers just broke the socket. So I took out the few screws holding up the bottom panel(with the bulbs and filters). I unplugged the electrical connection and took out the sockets but I used PAM Cooking oil on the electrical connections plugging into the sockets to avoid pulling the wire holders from the connection. Replacing both bulbs and the sockets at the same time makes sense since the heat from the stove melts the bulbs in the socket.

Microwave would not turn on. Lights and fan worked fine. Before the microwave stopped completely, it would turn the microware fan on even when door was open. I read the reviews and they were exactly the same issue that others were facing. Once I opened the front panel and got to the switches it was easy to figure out which switch was bad as it was the one that was soft (When clicking it). It was hard to take it out though (it seemed stuck). So, I used a plier to yank it out. I put in the new switch and everything worked just great! I would like to thank other comments that were left on the site to make my task much easier. Thank you (to the commenters on PartsSelect), you not only saved me money, but also ensured that I learn about the microwave more and give me the confidence that I could fix it.

Fist I removed the 5 screws under the microwave. Then I dropped the panel and accessed the socket. I removed the socket by removing the one screw and disconnecting the wires. Replaced the wires on the new socket, installed the new bulb and reattached with the screw. replaced the panel with the 5 screws and I was done. Easy

First, unplug microwave. Unscrew two screws at top of microwave, slide grill cover left and remove. This allows access to single screw holding control panel. Remove this screw and lift up control panel to remove. Secondary door switch is black switch at lowest position. The switch is held in place by a lever in back and very hard to get to. Remove the wires plugged into the switch, then remove two screws holding the plastic switch mount that holds all three switches. These screws use a "star" type screwdriver. Once the plastic mount is free, lift it up, right, and tip it slightly to find the lever that will release the black secondary door switch (the lowest switch)...release the broken switch, snap the new switch in its place. Replace the plastic mount by lifting and replacing back into position and replace the two "star" screws. Now, replace the wires onto the new switch, and test operation. Replace control panel, and top grill. It goes faster than it writes...getting the old switch out through that difficult to reach lever was the hardest part...still less than thirty minutes.

Removed 5 phillip screws from bottom plate of microwave oven to lower the plate and gain access to the socket. Then, removed screw(s) attaching socket to the oven. Installed socket, and secured the bottom plate of the oven with screws removed previously.

damper plate was a snap-in part. rotated fan discharge to top of microwave. installed ducting to discharge food odors outside.

replace socket

Removed the microwave with the buit in housing from the cabinet. Removed microwave from built in housing. Removed outer cabinet giving access to remove control panel and smart board where switches are located. Removed control panel to get to smartboard. Removed smart board after disconnecting a few wires to allow easy removal. Individually removed and then tested each switch using multimeter. Found seondary Door Switch (bottom of smart board) operation to be intermittent (switch trip button extremely loose and rattle inside this particular switch) Ordered replacement part which came very quickly on standard shipping order. Put new switch on smart board and remounted, reinstalled control panel and reconnected various wire connectors previously disconnected. Then plugged in oven and tested for opertation - didn't work at all! But, after bleeding off capacior charge by removing connectors and discharging capacitor to ground, then reassembling control board and smart board into oven, then trying agian, it has worked perfectly ever since. Do not understand why capacitor disconnect/discharge was required but suspect this reset the control electronics. Easy fix and hope to get another 12 years out of this appliance which is used multiple times every day. Also have two other identical micorwave ovens, one is 20 years old, but these get used relatively infrequently.

Took out five screws on microwave bottom, removed the two screws in the socket and unplugged the light socket. Plug in new socket, screw in place with 2 screws. Lock in microwave bottom,and screw in 5 screws. Replace bulbs. Be sure and either unplug microwave or switch off at electric service box, before starting. Of course, hubby did all the work, but I supervised.

As suggested, I placed a towel over the stove. Only had 3 main screws to remove from bottom of microwave. Dropped the bottom and changed the sockets and light bulbs. After replacing the bottom tray, I put the new glass light lens in. The clips on glass holder bent back like a photo frame-really easy. Turned on the lights and was done.