JGP963WEKW General Electric Range - Instructions

As soon as we got home we looked up your website to order a new Head Burner D.

The new cooktop was going to be used on a center Island and I could not figure out a way to vent the cooktop, so I took it back to Home Depot for a refund, and I returned the head burner D back to you.

I do appreciate your service very much, and I am sure that we will have the opportunity to do business again.


Thank you,

James Foster

Groesbeck, Texas

Cut off approx. 1/8" in length for correct fit.

the electrodes on this model have to be removed before you can raise cooktop, once cooktop is raised remove wire from burner bracket, use needle nose pliers to squeeze bottom of clip,remove &replace with new parts.

I had to drill the hole to a larger size to enable the foot to fit.

there were no grate pads so it was easy to add them.

Nothing technical.

Used scribe to remove grate foot plug still in grate inserted new foot.

I had to convert unit to propane and it was new out of the box. Could not remove one orifice because it had been installed too tight so I called ge for service as a warantee call we were on the phone with ge customer service for well over an hour and were transferred about 5 times all resulting in dropped calls. So, I contacted parts select and of course, paid for the part myself just get it done. It was easier that trying to work with ge. Received the part and and completed the conversion without difficulty. Along with the range top, we completely outfitted our remodeled kitchen with profile appliances including 2 ovens, dishwasher, refrigerator and a trash compactor. However, parts select was great.

Start by removing all screws 3 for each burner total of 15 t-15 bit is required then proceed to remove spark igniters 5 total slight pull next step would be to slide a screwdriver under top left and right side to remove top shelf. There you will have access to the parts you need to replace. When done just reverse installation instructions to complete

First remove the screws around the inside perimeter of the door. These require a special hex driver. Take off the inside plastic liner of door.
Peal off the old Insulation Foam Strip and replace it with the new strip in the same location. Make sure the wires are off to the right side. Replace the door plastic liner. Done. The Insulation Foam Strip really acts more like a loose gasket to keep spashing from creeping under the door and drippin out on the floor.

Could not have been simpler. Burner head dropped into place and was held in place by gravity. Not possible for part to go in incorrectly.

Removed grill grates, gas distributors, etc. (just lift off). Used star screwdriver to remove screws (3 per burner for SML, 2 for power burner). Lift off stainless cover, which also lifts off the white sparkers I was replacing. Pull them off the wires (didn't need pliers, others said they did). Replace (make sure it is all the way on) and reverse your steps. White sparkers electrodes seemed loose when I put them back on, but tightened up when I fully secured the top back on. Make sure the wires aren't pinched underneath when you put the top back on. Recommended: If you've got one that isn't working, go ahead and replace all 3 (power burner is different) because the part is so cheap you may as well just do it now.

Ordered by phone parts & very pleased with all of transaction.

Ordered new knob

put it in but it keeps falling out. they're made narrower than my oven grate.