JFC2290VEM Jenn-Air Refrigerator - Instructions

The repair seemed simple, I just needed to remove the old bracket -- 4 screws -- and slip the new one on.

The tricky bit is that the roller bracket holds the weight of the fridge. So in order to make sure that the fridge did not fall over, and to keep the installation point off the ground so that I could align the screw holes, I needed to shim up the side of the fridge that I was working on.

To tap in the shims, I used a hammer and a spare chunk of wood. I ultimately used 3 shims, and kept tapping until the roller wheel could roll freely. Then I knew that the fridge was high enough. After that, it was pretty easy to remove the 4 screws, align the new bracket, and replace the screws. After that, in order to get the shims out I could just extend the foot brake as it was designed, and that lifted the fridge enough for me to easily slide out the shims. After that I just had to level out the fridge by adjusting the two feet.

I unplugged the fridge. Loosened the 2 top screws on the ice maker and removed the lower screw. I disconnected the wiring harness and removed the Ice maker. I removed the plastic timer cover in front. I then loosened the screws on the face of the ice maker and removed the broken ice stripper and replaced it with a new one. Re-tightened the screws on the face, installed the timer cover, plugged in the wiring harness, re-attached the ice maker. Plugged the fridge back in and walla, it was making ice in 30 minutes!

Turn off water supply too ice maker and unplug the fridge power. using a nut driver remove one bottom screw from the bottom, near the front. The other two from the side atop the ice mold. (loosen screws and ice maker will lift up and off.)
I set the ice maker on the counter, snapped of the front cover by hand. using a phillips driver, remove two screws near the bottom corners.(they go through the circuit board into the ice mold)
circuit board in one hand, other end of ice mold in the other, slowly pull apart about 1 inch. remove the silver colored "on, off" bar at the end by snapping the retainer out of the ice mold. (the silver bar stays with the circuit board end)
Watch how the ice guide(white fingers stationary on side of ice mold) hooks too the ice mold on each end. swap ice guide to new ice mold, insert three guide pins on end into holes on the circuit board, while holding ice guide onto ice mold, watch rotation bar while inserting into motor.(it only splines one way.) when each piece is lined up, simply push together and reinstall two screws. snap circuit board cover into place. reinstall ice maker into freezer in reverse order.

The old icemaker had a bad motor and would stall in the fill cycle causing my kitchen to flood on occasion.

The new one was so quiet, I thought it didn't work!

Anyway, one nutdriver and 5 minutes and I had the new one in there... It is so quiet, and I always have plenty of ice now!!!

Thanks!!!

Removed the three motor screws pulled off old motor put new motor in place replaced screws and re-installed. It was producing ice three hours later. I originally tried to obtian these parts directly from Whirlpool in which twice they shipped me the wrong parts. Finally gave up on them and entered the whilrpool part number which crossreferenced to new part number which was correct the first try. Thank you!

First I unplugged the unit, then I popped off the cover to the icemaker electronics. Removed 4 screws, pulled out the broken electronic panel, and replaced with the new one. Returned the screws and cover. The next moring the ice bin was full.

This must have saved me $300, and the inconvernience of waiting around for the repair man. He would have made two trips since he would never have had this part with him.

Took a putty knife and
Removed the old switch removed the spade terminals from the old switch and replaced them on the new switch and just pushed the new switch back in place

(1) Removed the three screws which attached the ice maker to the freezing compartmnet wall in refrigerator; (2) Disconnected the power to the old ice maker; (3) Removed the old ice maker from the freezing compartment of the refrigerator; (4) Took the white front cover off of the old ice maker; (5) Disconnected the wiring harness from the old ice maker; (6) Removed the "ice making-stop arm" from the old ice maker; (7) Placed the items taken from old ice maker on to the new ice maker; (8) Reconnected the new ice maker to the power; (9) Placed the new ice maker in the proper position in freezing compartment of refrigerator and replaced the three screws. JOB DONE!

It is simple, unscrew the old screw in the new one.

Lower the filter bottom housing to gain access to the filter. Unscrew the filter and install the bypass cap. Secure the lower filter housing to the top assembly.

I tested the ice maker first and got no response. So I bought the new ice maker and unplugged the connector in the back, loosened the 2 screws up top and took the bottom screw out. I took out the old one and then plugged the new one in and hung it back on the 2 loosened screws and put the bottom screw in and tightened the screws. I have to say it’s working great! Have plenty of ice again. Saved a lot of money by doing it myself. Buy your original model number part from Parts Select.

Popping out the broken switch was easy once I was able to see how the new switch part was engineered. The switch was made to be replaced, having a simple tension hook on the bottom of the switch which needed to be depressed to pull the switch out of the cabinet. Once pulled out, there were modular plugs for the power line that were easy to pull off the broken switch and plug into the new switch. Pop the new switch back in and VOILA, the lights worked again! Thanks to part select's good diagrams of the actual model of my refrigerator, it was very easy to hone in on the exact part I needed. I did notice one problem with the order as the correct series for the part was displayed earlier in the process, but had the wrong series later in the process. However,. I trusted the system and the part is for the right series and fit well (an exact match, down to the color). Thanks Part Select, I would definitely use you again.

Remove the crisper baskets, Hinged lid, Glass shelves, support bars, and to make it easier - the door bins.
There are no screws on the end caps for this model of fridge, unlike some YouTube videos you might see.
There's a release catch nearly in the middle of the cap. With your index finger, press down on the tab, to release the catch, while lifting the front of the end cap. The end cap should lift up and away from the side wall of your fridge.
Be careful to then rotate the entire assembly - in the case of the right side end cap - towards you, so that you can disengage the tab on the crisper drawer temp controller, that fits in the back wall of the fridge.
Once you've unhooked the control rods to the crisper temp. control, you'll need to remove the crisper drawer runners.
Again - on this model, there are no screws. The runners just slide out from underneath their retaining plastic tabs. Slide them towards what would be the front of the fringe if they were in their natural position, they clear the retaining tabs and become free.
The control rods need to be re-attached on the new end cap.. just take your time click it between the various plastic tab.
Then insert the end tab of the crisper temp control in the back wall, rotate the entire assembly 90 degrees, so the end cap is aligned with the slide wall, and lower it into position until the retailing clip clicks into position. Congratulations, you've replaced your right side end cap!
Then reinstall all the supports, shelves, bins etc. and you're good to go.
Good Luck!

So far haven’t done the repair and probably will give up. This issue is discussed in frequent questions area of your web site. Steve’s video needs to be updated to discuss what to do with end caps that are snapped, rather than screwed, in. Before decided to DIY, I looked at video. Video job is easy. Steve showed it was easy, but video end cap has screws. I figured mine did too and so ordered the part. When placing order, rep. and/ or web site should point out issue as now that look at item on line can see no screw holes. As your instructions note for my issue, if can pry old unit off, challenge is to recall where everything that drops out goes when replacing. Because I’m stubborn, will probably try one more time, but likely will fail to swap out old for new end cap. Warning: screwless end cap replacement is not easy.

Removed pantry drawer and both crispers. Removed glass shelf. Removed both support bars. Using my thumb, pressed into the square openings in pantry cap. That snaps the cap loose from side of the fridge. Removed l-shaped assembly from fridge. Photographed the assembly with my phone camera so I could reconstruct the assembly. It is very complicated reassembling these parts. Reassembled these parts onto replacement part. Inserted tabs on cap assembly into slots in side and back of appliance. Replaced support bars, glass shelf, crispers, and pantry drawer in that order. Slid pantry lid onto plastic prongs at either end of the drawer. If new prong is too long, slice tiny section off with serrated knife and slide lid back into place. Job well done!