JFC2290REM00 Jenn-Air Refrigerator - Instructions

Watched video. Unplugged refrigerator and popped out switch. In plugged connector and pushed switch in place. Plugged in refrigerator and the light worked

Removed old ice maker by removing 3 screws, unplugged wiring harness. Replaced with new ice maker, placed three screws back to secure the ice maker, plugged wire harness back, and product is working well at this time.

I used “ Bruce from KIRKLAND, WA” instructions.

Without it, I may still be struggling to remove it. These are his notes summarized.

Remove both humidifier drawers
Remove the glass shelf
Remove the deli drawer and lid

To remove the end cap (either side) there is a plastic tab to push down on just over halfway back and then you can slide the front of the end cap up and out.

THE PLASTIC TAB IS THE KEY!! ---^

To install the new end cap, reverse this process.

The trickiest part is then re-inserting the deli drawer and the lid.
Getting the lid onto the two axles was a bit of a struggle as the fit is very tight.

Huge thanks to Bruce from KIRKLAND, WA!!!

Remove back cover
Remove drip thing from top to tray in the back
Remove fan motor assembly. This is squirrely. Top bends towards you, bottom pushes in to the unit. Not fun.
CAREFULLY remove copper tube that rests on drip tray
Remove tray - there are clips in the front that get released by screwdriver
Clean up
Replace new tray
Replace copper tube
Play with fan motor assembly till it fits. It doesn't look like it's gonna work until it does. See youtube videos on this.
Replace drip thing from top to tray - I forgot this one the first time.
Replace cover.

This is a simple, but squirrely, repair. Right on the border of easy (because so few tools and steps) and A Bit Difficult because of the patience required.

Remove the 2 screws that secure the flipper seal to the door. Slide the entire flipper seal up approximately 3/8ths of an inch. Disconnect wire connection. Reverse procedure to reinstall. Be sure flipper seal is pushed down enough to align screw holes before trying to reinstall the 2 screws.

Truth is, this took a couple hours of cursing, but that was due to poor information and no prior experience. I imagine the next one would take 20 minutes. The issues are these: videos tell you to use a putty knife to pry the old switch out. That is harder than it seems because each switch has a plastic spring that pops open to hold the switch on, and you can't access the spring when the switch is installed. So it is important to use the knife on the side of the switch (left or right of spring -- look at the new switch), and back and forth until the switch is worked out. Then it can get worse. The new switch has to plug in electrically before it can be installed mechanically. In my case, with the switch on the fridge wall rather than the top, the outlet for the plug was encased in foam insullation. That gives the appearance that the plug was fixed, immovable, which makes it impossible to plug it in electrically before the switch is in place, and of course once it is in place you can't then plug it in. The problem here was poor instructions. Just scrape out a lot of the foam around the plug and you find that the plug is really not fixed, but attached to reasonably long wires that allow you to plug it in with the switch a couple inches from the wall, and then insert the switch. None of the online instructions tell you this about the wires.

The old cover was off and I just slid the replacement part that I got from you'll, it just slid in place and snapped close. Perfect fit. Thanks guys

Unscrew decorative plastic cover. Unsnap old damper assembly and disconnect wire connector. Snap in the new assembly and plug in the wires. Replace decorative cover.

Let the ice in the freezer melt while installing P trap drain tube

There have been two problems with closing the left door.

First, the flap did not engage with the stop at the top of the cabinet and so the door did not close properly. Fixed this by adding a shim to the cabinet stop to lower it by about 3/16 of an inch.

The second problem was that the left door flapper had somehow gotten loose from its lower plastic clip. The solution to this was simply to remove the single screw in the flapper in the center where the electrical connector is, then re-attach the flapper with both clips properly engaged, and replace the screw to hold things fast..

No new parts were needed.

Cut old fill tube into pieces, removed and replaced with new tube. Extremely easy.

Saw U tube instrctions how to install and it was easy

Very easy to fix . It was harder to empty the contents out or the refrigerator than to repair . The diagrams on this site were very helpful in identified the part. and it was delivered in 5 days.

The Youtube Video was Extremely helpful--the model they worked on was a Whirlpool, and is held in with 1/4" machine screws. The KitchenAid is largely identical, but doesn't use screws. There is a plastic release you depress to free the Right Support from the cabinet. Otherwise, the process is identical to what's shown on the Youtube video. The Fridge "came with" when we bought the house, and we've already replaced the door seals using this website (another easy fix). Of course, when gently reinstalling the lid I snapped the pin on the Left Pantry Drawer support. So i've ordered that part too--i'll chalk it up to age/wear&Tear. The Left is much easier than the Right, as the Right Support has a sliding humidifier setting slide. So the Right is slightly more involved, but is also an easy fix. No tools required at all for either drawer support on the KitchenAid. Just be very patient and gentle as you re-install the drawer lid.

Snapped in new part