JCSP38DN3WW General Electric Range - Instructions

After watching the video and ordering the parts and searching for the right size socket (which took most of the time) and finding medical tape as I had no electrical tape I took of the back unhooked the terminals and following the wires to determine which ones needed to be replaced I followed the video instructions on reverse as my son had spliced new terminal blocks into the old wires I taped each new wire to the one it was replacing and pulled it through the back of the stove and into the front attached the new wires to the new block and pushed the clips on the other end of the wires to the knob boxes. I rolled up the excess wire and taped it securely with medical tape so it wouldn't unravel and be in the way when I reattached the back shield on the stove. After I repeated the process for the second terminal (I had two that kept shorting out) I reassembled the stove plugged it back into the wall and used both burners that night to cook dinner! I have had no problems with those burners since then. Really if you watch the video first and follow the instructions you should have no problems. It is really quite simple if someone hasn't tried to repair the problems without replacing the wires. Splicing new blocks into old wires just doesn't work. If I have this problem again, which I hope I don't, I will be confident in my ability to fix the problem myself. Thank you parts select for repair video and the parts.

I began by turning off the breaker in the panel.
Slide the oven out into the open area.
Removed 3 screws in order to remove rear top panel.
Took 2 pictures of the wiring location on the PCB
Removed all wiring going to the circuit board total of 8.
Removed 4 screws in order to remove bad PCB.
Remove faceplate from bad PCB (you will need to place this faceplate on the new PCB.

To Install.
Reverse steps above

Turned power off to oven
Unscrewed broiler nuts (total of 4)
Pulled Broiler out from back of stove
Disconnected wires
Reconnected wire
Remounted broiler and replaced bolts
Turned power back on

Turn off the power to the oven. (There should be a circuit breaker in the main power panel dedicated to just the oven) (the oven should be cool to the touch).
Open and remove the door by pulling it up and off the hinges (this is best accomplished with a helper).
Remove the racks (wire shelves).
Remove the two 1/4" mounting screws that secure the heating element to the back and the two screws that secure the element to the top of the oven..
Gently pull the wires out and disconnect them from the heating element.
Now reverse the process.
Connect the wires to the new heating element in the same fashion as they came off.
Push the wires and heating element back in place and secure with the four screws.
Replace the wire racks (shelves).
Replace the door (again, this is best accomplished with a helper).
Turn the power back on.
Run a test of the broiler to make sure the repair was completed properly.
voila!

Followed directions given by previous customers problems which we found on the internet.

Replaced burned element, did not fix no power problem. Ordered receptor replacement, replaced it, took less than 10 mminutes, but still no power to burned. Then ordered replacement switch, replacement too less than 10 minutes again and burner works fine.

I just removed the drawer and installed the rear supports as instructed on paper included with the part.

Removed the old burner bowls, replacing them with the new ones.

One wire at at time then used my razor blade to get front off stuck right back on

1. Open oven door
2. insert oven racks (perfect fit)
3. close oven door. Done and finished - man am I tired

THE INSTRUCTIONS THAT COME IN THE EMAIL ARE VERY GOOD. BE SURE TO TAKE A PICTURE OF THE WIRING.

Followed GE repair video

unplug it and plug the new one in

standard procedure, very simple

replaced Plastic Guides