JCBP35DP2WW General Electric Range - Instructions

I unpluged the stove pulled it out and took the 6 screws off the back to get to the switch. Around front take knob off and removed the two screws holding the swich in place and pulled it out the back. Pulled one wire at a time off of the old switch and replace on the new switch. Nothing to it had it done in just a few mins.

The burner light did not turn off, and the rear burner stayed hot. Unplugged unit and removed switch, which turned off the "burner lit" lamp. Thus I figured it was the switch that was causing the problem. Ordered the switch (I think around $18 and plugged it in. I think there were 4 screws to get the panel off, and then another 2 to get the switch off. When I plugged the unit back in (it had been unplugged while I waited for the part to ship) it beeped for a while. I had to turn the breaker on and off, and that solved the beeping problem.

I took a picture of the setup and damage . I then disconnected the burnt wires and replaced the wires . Then I installed the new terminal block and connected the wires to the proper positions. The reason for the failure was that the delivery people didn't tighten the cord when they installed the stove . I would check the connections periodically as to avoid another situation like this .

replaced with new ones

Went online looked up model no and found Part No. and ordered it couple of days It came in mail Cut power to oven took knob off two screws back panel. wired new switch like the old one replced thwe switch and two screws and panel connected the power tried new switch it worked great.

Disconnected the appliacnce from the power source. Using screwdriver, removed the back panel and disconnected every wire that are connected to the switch. Pulled out the front nob and removed the switch. Then install the new switch by screwing it back in. Place all wires back and back panel. Connect and finish.

remove rear panel cover, removered four screws that held control panel, disconnected colored wires, removed circuit control board, reinstall new board and connected color coded wire to the correct spot on the board, plugged in 220 volt cord, switch on circuit breaker, everything worked normal again

Parts arrived in record time and the right parts. The detailed diagram was so helpful in finding exactly the part I needed to order. Was so easy my girlfriend with no mechanical or electrical experience completely helped me through the entire project. She secured the electrical breaker to the range, and I had the top back to the oven removed. I showed her how the little white box simply slides off the lens cover, then replaced the new one in the holes and slide it back on. Secured the back and she turned on the breaker back on...and all lights work. Thanks for making this project easy, simple and quick.

The part was just like the old one and would have been an easy fix except our range suffered from a lighting hit. The clips had melted together. Called a dealer and asked about a new wiring harness. He said in those cases just cut the clip off and hard wire with wire clips,or firecrackers. We used wire nuts and taped all together and the oven works just great. Nothing is ever as easy as it should be.

I found a video on Youtube with a similar circuit board repair and decided that I could probably do it. First and most important is to be certain the range is disconnected from its electric circuit. I did this by turning off the breaker at the electrical panel and then unplugging the range. Second, I removed a panel (four screws) on the back of my stove to expose the circuit board, Next I removed the board (four screws) without disconnecting the wiring. Then I removed the flexible plastic covering from the board which has the control button identities on it. This was the most difficult part because the glue was very sticky and I did not want to tear the cover. After removal, I stuck the plastic covering (still sticky) onto the new circuit board and made sure the buttons were in the correct position. Then, I unplugged the wires one at a time from the old circuit board and made sure I plugged them into the new board in the correct position. Finally, I reattached the new board and the back panel on the stove. This repair was easy and no problem for the average "do it yourself" type.

Purchased the board installed it and saved about 130 dollars.

I miss diagnosed the situation at first. When the top element only heated up I thought the control was the problem. Wrong. Apparently both elements heat up during initial start up. It turned out that the bottom element was not working so it needed to be replaced rather then the control. Now both are replaced and the oven is now back to original status. Entire repair cost about $80. I saved over $100 by attempting this myself. Easy fix. Obviously I am not a pro. My local hardware store had a generic heating element that worked just fine and only cost $22. Two screws to repair after removing the back panel. Remember to pull the plug before you begin and after the repair put all panels back on before plugging back in. Pizza anyone?

I easily took out the old ones and put in the new ones sent by Part Select. As promised they fit perfectly. Now when my wife cooks there is no more smoke and it does not set off the smoke detector.

Took out the old control module and removed the sticker and reattached sticker to new part and installed the plugs, put the screws back in and it started working, thankyou so much.

I watched your video on the subject and followed it exactly. It explained everything I needed to know. The hardest part was CLEANING under the stove once I pulled it out from the wall!