JCB840SF3SS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Referenced a couple of videos first, held up the new gasket to ensure fit, then carefully pulled the old gasket off by hand. Wiped down the ridges/edges of the door, then installed new gasket first on opposite corners then along all sides. Simply pressed in to the door ridges/bracket. Used a putty knife to ensure the edge of gasket was not folded under itself, and the blunt edge of the handle to ensure it was snugly installed all the way around. Didn’t have to remove the door as I had expected to. Very easy and took maybe 30 mins.

It. Was awasome the part fit great and it was even deliverd sooner than expected thank you

Had to take out everything on the shelf & pull out the vegetable draws, then proceeded to clean it all. Had to take out the glass inset in the cover & wash that. After that I just slid it in - piece of cake! The hardest part was to get the plastic cover off the new part!

By the way - I'm 87 yrs old.

I followed the steps in the You Tube video on this topic. Search for "washing machine repair - replacing the drive pulley" in your favorite search engine. The video is very well done and it is a simple fix. Before I put on the new drive pulley and nut, I vacuumed up and then wiped down the black dust around the drive pulley shaft (as well as on the inside floor of the washer) to make sure the drive pulley slid onto the shaft using the hand banging method described in the video (dust was likely from the belt due to the excessive movement of the drive pulley). While it may be possible to tighten the nut without a torque wrench, I personally had trouble judging the appropriate 44 ft lbs of torque without it (i.e. my snug required more than a quarter turn per the optional instructions). The torque wrench provided me with the assurance that I installed the drive pulley correctly.Two of my shocks were leaking slightly so I assumed that was the primary issue and replaced all 4 at quite a hefty cost. It helped with the noise but not significantly. If you do have a loud noise during the spin cycle, do yourself a favor and check the play in the drive pulley and look for the black dust before you diagnose the problem to be something else. The online diagnostic tool showed the drive pulley as being the highest probability of being the issue so, sadly, I have no excuses...

While the switch did last for 9 years, the design is poor due to the failure mode. The failure should be to fail off or not able to turn on the lights which would be inconvenient but would not warm the refrigerator contents. Arcing at the contacts eventually caused the switch to "weld" closed. It is not obvious that this is occurring so it took some time to recognize why the temp inside the ref was high while the freezer was OK. Replacing the switch was easy once it was recognized as the problem. All that was required to replace the switch was to remove the screws holding a fiber cover and then pulling off the aluminum cap which covered the switches. Unplug the switch an squeeze the keeper on the switch to release it and pull down. Pop the replacement switch in place and plug the wires harness back in. All in all it took much less time to replace than it has to write this up. T Pope

The existing light switch was very hard to remove. I ended up having to grab it with a pair of pliers and pull it out. Once it was out, it was very easy to put in the replacement and it seems to be working fine.

1. Disconnected 120 VAC power supply from refrigerator. 2. Removed 2 philip screws from horizonal panel containing the thermostat. (Panel is in refrigerator section). 3. Removed plug module from panel which freed the panel which allowed me to remove panel to do repair. 4. Removed wires from thermostat (cold control), and mechanically removed thermostat from panel and installed new cold control (thermostat). Replaced wires on control. 5. Replaced panel and reinstalled 2 philips screws. 6. time to repair about 15 minutes.

I typed replacement fridge parts in google. Parts select.com came up. I found my fridge model # on the fridge and typed it in. A similar model # came up and I looked at the parts diagram. I determined what the piece was. I checked a couple other similar fridge model #'s to see if the part was the same. It was. Parts select made it so easy! I ordered the part on Monday in the afternoon... used regular shipping and had it in my hands by 9 am on Wednesday. I opened my fridge took out the collapsed bottom shelf (courtesy of my forever climbing 3 year old!) Installed the old glass and drawers in the new tray and Voila! as good as new! This couldn't of been a better experience from beginning to end,

easy as 1.2.3 remove and replace before even thinking. just to let you know i also do this for a living but it is one of the most difficult thing when you have to stop and fix your own

Just placed the new shelf in-doesn't get any easier than that! lol

as described, I used a thin screwdriver to wedge in and pull down existing, broken switch. I was able to pull it down about a 1/4 inch, but wasn't quit able to disegage it until I gripped it with pliers. I then pulled it out, unplugged the old switch, plugged in the new switch, and carefully tucked the wires back into the fridge and snapped the new switch into place.

10 minutes total.

Took out the broken one and put in the new one just as the vido showed me how to. Took about 2 minutes.

This is a built-in unit. Remove the external bezel at the top of the unit. Reach through the unit and unplug the frig. On the compressor unit, you'll see a vertical metal panel. Remove the metal panel and the timer is right behind it. Remove one wire at a time and switch it to the new timer. Remove timer and replace with new one.

Just an added comment, GE Service wanted to put an "ice kit" into my unit. The full repairs would have cost $1,000. While I described how to replace the defrost timer, the problem was the tray heater. But that's another story.

Simply changed the part.

I opened the back panel of the fridge and exposed the compressor. Unplugged existing run capacitor and installed new one with the addition of the sleeve that is stated must be installed around the run capacitor.
Everything I read and on this web site says that based on these symptoms, that the problem is the run capacitor. I searched and search for a part called a start relay which plugs in to the compressor. This run capacitor plugs in to this other part which I take as the start relay.

Installing this run capacitor did not solve the problem. The fridge compressor keeps cycling on and off. Freezer doesn't keep as cold as it should.