The bake element in your oven provides the cooking heat. This part can be found at the bottom of your oven, and attaches to the power source on the back wall. It has two terminals that fit into the po...
$88.10
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This burner bowl is also known as a burner drip bowl or burner drip pan, and is designed for use with your cooktop or range. It is black in color and is approximately 6 inches in diameter. It can be f...
$16.56
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The 8-inch surface element switch is also known as an infinite heat switch, and is a part for your range. It controls the large surface element. It will turn the element on and off, and allow you to c...
$43.33
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This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually and is a genuine OEM replacement option for your home appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible wi...
$11.02
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This part is the replacement light socket for your oven. The oven light socket provides power to the light, and at the same time holds the light bulb in place.
$8.54
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Turned off circuit breaker to range. Removed the 2 oven racks. Removed two screws in back of oven compartment. Pulled element forward and the terminal connections get exposed. The right terminal clip disconnected by itself and the wire went back into the stove and could not be retrieved. Removed range draw under the oven an
... Read mored pulled entire range out from wall about 4 feet.. Removed metal backing with a socket wrench and exposed the oven element wires and terminals. Reinstalled new element and metal backing. Since range was out from wall, cleaned and vacuumed before pushing stove back in place. Since range draw was out re-leveled by setting adjustable feet. Reinstalled drawer and racks. Turned on circuit breaker. Tested element by setting bake cycle on.
After the element cooled down, I pulled the racks out of the oven, turned off the oven at the breaker box, then, using a nut driver, loosened the screws that held the baking assembly in the back of the oven, and pulled the connecting wires off. I bent the wires to make sure they would stay out, because if they get back in the insulation,
... Read morethey are hard to find. I would recommend getting a pair of locking pliers and putting them on the ends of the wires just to keep them from getting back into the insulation. Then I attached the left connection wire and then the right one, pushed them back into the insulation, tightened the baking assembly to the back wall of the oven, turned it back on at the breaker box, then tested the oven to see if it heated up. It did. Total repair time 15 -20 minutes. Would have been less if I didn't have to chase one of the wires back in the insulation. Shamless plug for the company ...By paying extra for 2-day shipping to receive the part, I saved just over $20 from buying it at Sears, which would have had to order the part anyway.
Remove nobs from both switches. Pull out the range (the hardest part). REMOVE THE POWER PLUG FROM THE WALL Remove 7 screws with nut driver and take off upper back panel. Remove 2 phillips screws from front, they hold the switch brackets. The new switches don't fit in the bracket so discard the bracket keeping the
... Read morescrews. Removing 1 wire at a time from the old switch transfer to the new noting the letter/number ie "H1 P1" combos they are all there just not in the same places on the new switch. When wiring is complete, using the bracket ,screws from the front screw on the switches. Replace the back panel with 7 screws. In my case the old nobs did not fit the shafts of the new switches. I found some at the local hardware store. I bought 4 for $0.29 each! I expect to be replacing the other burner switches shortly.
