Ever the optimist, I'd replaced the burner on this relic of another time to no effect. That left the switch. You guys should know that when a burner element goes bad it can take out the switch. I should have put a meter on it. Wehn I looked for a replacement a few months ago there were still factory parts available, but they were $80 or so and I wasn't inclined to risk that on a 40 year old range. I offered to replace the raange for my daughter as a Christmas present but she like this old thing. It was an unusual size with a pan storage compartment on the left. I went on line and found this universal replacement for about $25 delivered. What the heck. I ordered it and it arrived within a week. I pulled the stove out, killed the breaker, pulled the knob off, used a nut driver to take ther rear panel off, two phillips screws under the knob hold the switch in. The terminals on the old switch are in a slightly different order but are clearly marked L1, L2, H1, H2 and P. The P is the power and has a smaller terminal so you can't put it on the wrong one. Just examine the old switch ( it was marked the same way) take off the L1 and put in on the L1 of the new switch and so on, make sure you use the correct knob adapter to fit your old knob and break the switch stem to the correct length. It will break easilly if you hold it with one pliers and break it with another. Screw the new switch in place with he old screws. At this point, I closed the breakers and tested it. It worked fine. I turned the breakers off again. Buttoned it up and slid the stove back into place. 20 minutes tops. Great product. Good for another forty years.
Disconnect power. . . Remove control panel, pull wire connectors,[note location] remove old switch, install new, install wires, snip stem to length, set knob . . . Turn on power - works. [Note this is a live part even when not connected]
My previous heating element, broke while a family member was trying to clean it.
This was so easy. First pull stove out and disconnect plug in from the wall. Then, I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Then I installed the new one in reverse order.
Removed the burner coil. Unscrewed the terminal block. Pulled out the stove and disconnected the 220 Volt service at the plug. Removed the back panel at the control knobs. Detached the wiring to the control knob and pulled thru the back panel. Wiring mostly visable to the front 8 inch burner. Replaced wiring and mounted new terminal block. Tested the burner for a few seconds. Replaced back panel and set stove in place. Saved $150 dollar service call.
I lifted out the burners and took out the old drip pans ans then replaced the burners. However the 8 inch pans were bigger than the old ones and they do not fit properly. They are sitting on top of the stove and not inserted like they should be. I will have to look elsewhere to find ones that fit.
I did not know what kind of tool was needed to remove the screws so I asked at the hardware store. When i said the screw was star shaped, he sold me torque wrench with multiple heads. First I removed the screw holding the broken handle in place. I cleaned surfaces. Next I attempted to put the handle in place on the horizontal bar and then put the screw into the opening. That did not work. I jiggled the handle for a while but could not get the pegs into the holes. Finally, I just held the handle in place and began to turn the screw and the handle slid into place as the screw got tighter.
Burner terminal block unstable due to corrosion; potential electrical fire hazard
This appeared to be an easy fix, but turned out to be more involved than I planned. The hard part was pulling the range/microwave oven assembly away from the wall so I could remove the back panel and see how the new terminal block wires connected up to the switch/knob that operates the burner. Extracting the whole range unit required me to use a floor jack to raise the leveling feet of the range above the edge of my floor tile so I could slide the unit out. Once away from the wall, I used a nut driver to remove the back panels. Next surprise was the new terminal block wire connectors were not the same type as the old block's connectors (flat vs. male pin-type). Rather than let the scope of this job creep to include a whole new connector rig, I opted to splice the new terminal block wires onto the existing wires that led up to the control knob. I used professional splices and a crimping tool to secure the wires. After checking the new installation was sound and operational, I slid the whole range back into place. Attaching the new terminal block to the range top was a piece of cake, but getting the damn oven out into open space where I could work on it was bear. But, hey, I learned a few things, one of which is that when a homeowner decides to retile their kitchen, make sure you run the new tiles all the way under the range and not just up to the front edge of the oven. I can see why this was done - to avoid having to remove the oven during the retiling - but it creates an obstacle for whenever the oven needs to be pulled away from its location. The last tool I imagined I would need for this repair was a car jack. The Parts Select part worked fine.
New one a little different ,but it was marked for wiring! Had to install upside down because wires would not reach right side up! Had to pull back side of knob out and turn 180 degrees and glue in knob, so knob would be right side up! Works fine! Now all burners work again!
Still need an other nut to keep broiler support inplcae. Support bar did not come with new screws so I must locate one new one.
I took out the old broiler support bar, but it was being held by one screw. I did install the new bar with one screw, but I need to obtain a second screw. I still have not located a second screw, but it is inplace.
Removed old surface burners and replaced them by plugging in the new surface burners. Now they work GREAT! Parts ordered and received with-in 3 business days. Fed EX delivered parts in good order very quickly. We recommend PartSelect.com
First shut the power to the stove,then had to slide the stove out so I could get at the back to remove the panel screws.Once you have the back off remove the knob on the front.Under the knob is 2 phillips screws that you need to remove.Next I took the new switch and matched up the wires to the old switch.Reinstall is the reverse.Once the switch is in place you must remove the excess shaft to match the length of the old one.This is done with the use of 2 pliers,you grasp the shaft with both pliers and snap it off where you need it.The kit comes with spacers so you have got to match up the right one so the switch is solid on the shaft.This finishes the project,next turn the power back on and check that all is working ok.Job finished.
hard to get the wires out , and screws dont line up like the original
When I pulled the old element out only one of the wires was visible, the other wire was still connected and after pulling a few times it came out , but the wire connector wasnt visible and I had to dig around in the small opening to find it (2 hours worth of digging and pulling) I finally got a hold of the wire and pulled it through and was able to connect it to the element, had to bend the metal around the opening to be able to get my finger in there and find the wire, The screws that hold the element in place wernt the same as the original so i just have it pushed up in place but it seems to work ok , took way longer than i thought it would.
