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JB660DM2BB General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the JB660DM2BB
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Burned out oven element
I unscrewed and removed the old element from inside the oven, but unfortunately there wasn't enough extra wire to pull through and attach the new element from the front, so I had to move the oven away from the wall, remove the back panel, and connect the new element from the rear. Very self-explanatory.

The new element had some kind of spray or coating on it that caused some smoke for a few minutes, but then it worked fine.
Parts Used:
Bake Element - Push On Terminals - 240V
  • Jeremy from Savoy, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
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One of the drawer supports broke off
I pulled out the drawer and inserted the new support. This one inserts into the back of the drawer as opposed to the sides. I had ordered two of the replacements even though I only needed one and decided to replace both. I think it was a good move as the drawer works better than when we first got it. Just one simple screw made it complete.
Parts Used:
REAR SUPPORT
  • John from Sandy Hook, CT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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Replace window pack assembly
This door required a lot more screws to be removed in order to remove the inside window assembly. I counted a total of 19 screws. That is why the estimated time is 30-60 minutes.

- remove door from range following the basic guide to removing any range door.
- place door on work surface with the outside facing down.
- remove three 1/4 socket screws from bottom and two star screws on top.
- Flip door over, remove outer door panel and set aside.
- There will be a separate pane of glass that needs to be removed. Remove 1/4 socket screws holding glass and set aside.
- Slide door over your work surface edge so you can remove the star screws holding the door hinges (from underneath). You could flip the door over but the door would have to be flipped back once the hinges were removed.
- Remove the remaining 1/4 screws holding the aluminum shielding.
- Remove the shielding being careful not to disturb the insulation around the window.
- Remove the damaged window. Take note of the writing and orientation on the aluminum window frame. (upper right if hinges were on the bottom)
- Set the new window in its place.
- Reverse the process by replacing the aluminum shield, hinges, than internal glass pane.
- Set outer door on top and holding everything together, flip door.
- Tighten the two star screws on top and the three 1/4 socket screws on the bottom.
- Replace door. Don't forget to lift up those hinge tabs before trying to close the door.
All done. Pat yourself on the back for a job well done.
Parts Used:
Window Pack Assembly
  • Rose from BEND, OR
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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Bake element broke into pieces
Disconnect electric at panel box. Pull oven out. Remove 5 screws from rear panel. Pull off the 2 clips at the tips of the old element which is located about 2/3 down the back side of the oven. Remove broken element from inside the oven and slide new element in place. Push 2 clips firmly on the ends of the new element. Replace back cover. Turn power on. Test oven. Slide oven back in place.
Parts Used:
Bake Element - Push On Terminals - 240V
  • Rita from LYMAN, SC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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Original terminal block plastic shielding melted, protecting appliance when the wires overheated.
Safety first * Unplugged 220 VAC from outlet. Removed shield cover screws with 1/4" hex nut driver (5 screws). Removed all 6 silver screws from terminal block with 1/4" nut driver, freeing all wires. Removed the green ground screw and ground bracket from center terminal. Cut away (using the drill) melted original terminal block plastic to access the 2 black 1/4" nuts holding original terminal block onto appliance. Discarded the original damaged terminal block. Attached the new terminal block, aligning the mounting holes and the terminal block the same way the original terminal block was lined up and re-used the black 1/4" nuts (original used because the replacement package did not include new black screws). I bought a new appliance cord, since the original cord overheated. Reattached all wires using the 6 new silver screws. Start with the middle terminal by attaching the appliance wires and the ground bracket. The ground must be attached to the bracket and the bracket bridges between the terminal block and the range body. Reattached shield cover. Plugged in appliance. Note: it doesn't matter which outside wire attaches to the outside terminals (both are hot), but the middle wire (neutral) must attach to the middle terminal. However, the ring terminal should be flush on the terminal block so you don't bend the ring.
Parts Used:
Terminal Block Kit
  • Brian from DOVER, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
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F2 fault code kept appearing on oven
Removed the oven door and shelves. Moved the oven out from wall, so that I could access the rear panel. Unplugged the oven. Removed the five (5) screws holding the rear panel in place and removed the panel. Disconnected the sensor at the connector. Removed the screw holding the sensor in place inside the oven and removed the sensor. Theaded the sensor wire through the rear of the oven wall. Installed the sensor and screw to hold it in place. Snapped the connector from the sensor to the mating connector at the rear of the oven. Installed the rear panel. Installed the five (5) screws to hold the panel. Plugged the oven back in and slide the oven back to the wall. Installed the oven shelves and the oven door.
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • emmett from rocky mount, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
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Oven Wouldn't Heat
Replaced
Parts Used:
CONTROL OVEN TO9
  • Russell from Yuma, AZ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
7 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
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MYy wife left the oven racks in and used oven cleaner.
Removed old racks and replaced with new racks.
Parts Used:
Oven Rack
  • CIRILO from WHITING, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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oven would not heat
I removed the 4 hex head screws holding the control panel , then the other 4 slotted screws. Disconnected all wires being careful to keep track of the color coding. Had a little trouble with the adhesive holding the face plate( I don't know why they even used it). Put the new panel in and reconnected it. Re set circuit breaker and tried the oven. It still wouldn't heat. it wasn't the control panel, but a burned out wire connecting the element in the back of the oven. Well, anyway I learned how to do the job and the the new panel activates better, so all was not lost.
Parts Used:
CONTROL OVEN TO9
  • Jim from Williamsburg, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
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Broker inner glass
Very easy to remove the parts and to reassemble
Parts Used:
Window Pack Assembly
  • marc from PARK RIDGE, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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lights blown out
replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer
Parts Used:
Light Bulb - 40W
  • Gerald from WINTERVILLE, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
6 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
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The bake element burned out. The gasket was dirty and not working well.
Replacing the gasket is easy and requires no tools. Pull out the ends that are just inserted in their slots. Then work your way around the door pulling out the little metal clips from their holes. Replace the new gasket the same way.

It's even easier to do if you remove the door first and place it on a table--but it's heavy. To remove the door, flip up the hinge clips--you might need a flat screwdriver to do this if they are old and stiff as mine were. Then close the door almost all the way--you'll feel a stopping point-- and pull up. It comes right out--but again, it's heavy.

Replacing the bake element is not much harder. It's easier to do with the door off, but not impossible with the door on. First, pull out the range and unplug it. Then, remove the hex screws holding the bake element against the back wall. The element has two electrical contacts that insert into clips at the ends of wires. Pull out the wires a bit to give yourself some slack, then pull the contacts out of the clips. Insert the clips from the new element into the wires and replace the screws.

If the wires get lost behind the back wall of the oven, it's not a big deal. Just remove the narrow central panel on the back (it has six hex screws) and push the wires back through the wall opening. Then replace the back panel and install the new element.
Parts Used:
Bake Element - Push On Terminals - 240V Range Oven Door Gasket
  • Mark from WATKINSVILLE, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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Actual temperature in oven was not consistent with the temperature setting
I am a 69 year old woman. I watched the Repair Clinic YouTube Video before I started. I then pulled stove away from wall and unplugged it. Took off oven door and removed the top oven rack. Loosened and removed the screw holding the temperature sensor located inside at the top center back wall of the oven. Pulled the sensor through the opening until the plastic plug came through. Unplugged and removed it and plugged in the new sensor. Fished it back through the opening. Replaced the bracket to the back wall of the oven and tightened the screw. Replaced the oven rack and stove door. Plugged it back in and moved it back into place. I turned on the oven and let is heat for over 30 minutes and the internal temperature was correct with the setting.
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • Martha from WILMINGTON, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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Replace Oven light socket and light bulb in kitchen Range
1) Turn off power at circuit breaker panel
2) Slide out Range from wall
3) Unplug Range
4) Remove back panel and unplug electrical connections to socket
5) From front of oven, remove glass cover over old oven light bulb and remove flange that holds socket and bulb
6) Remove old socket from mounting flange and discard.
7) Place new socket into mounting flange
8) Screw mounting flange and new socket into the oven from front. Reattach electrical connections from back.
9) Screw in new light bulb from front
10) Replace existing glass cover over new light bulb and snap wire holder in place
11) Replace back panel
11) Plug in range
12) Slide range back to original position
13) Turn on power
Works like a charm! Thanks for having the parts after 30 years!
Parts Used:
RECEPTACLE PUSH-IN Light Bulb - 40W
  • Ronald from TUCSON, AZ
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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Oven door gasket was fraying and started to fall apart.
1.) I removed the old oven door gasket by taking out the ends of the gasket out of the bottom of the oven door first.
2.) Pry up on each one of the retainer clips, they easily pop out of their slots.
3.) Work your way around the oven door gasket.
4.) If any remain stuck you can just wiggle the clip around and it should pop out of each hole. If need be you could use pliers, but I did not need to.
5.) Take your new gasket, it should already have new clips, so you can throw away the old ones.
6.) Work your way around the oven door making sure the clips are nicely seated.
7.) Finish off by inserting the ends back into the 2 holes on each side of the bottom of the oven door, I just used a small spoon to make sure the tops were nicely placed in.
8.) If your gasket needs to compress, you can close the oven door and lock it that should hold it in place and compress it.
9.) All done!
Parts Used:
Range Oven Door Gasket
  • Zachary from ARLINGTON, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the JB660DM2BB
46 - 60 of 299