IMP85800 Inglis Range - Instructions

First I removed the two screws that hold the glass cook top in place. Then I removed 4 screws that hold a small metal plate that shields the switch. Replacing the switch was very simply just a matter of unplugging four wire connectors from the old switch, sliding the new one in and reconnecting the wires. It was very easy to find the part on the website. I just located the switch on the diagram and ordered the part. I really surprised my husband that I ordered the part and repaired the stove by myself. He was intending on calling a repairman, but I did it myself.

Only hitch I experienced was identifying the correct replacement. The original diagram presented the accurate shape of the element my range required. However a different shaped element was displayed when I noted my unit is a series 12 serial number. I ordered it (with reservations) and as it turned out the replacement was identical to mine. Next time I will have a lil more confidence in the instructions given.

Removed drawer, after removing the 50# of junk in the drawer, Used screw driver to remove screw that holds glide to drawer and then place new part into place put screw into hole and tightened screw. Replaced drawer and told wife not to put 50# of junk back into the drawer.

Unplugged the power cord first. Opened oven door and removed the two screws that held the stove top glass down. Lifted the glass top and removed the four wires connected to the element. I taped the wires to the lid in the pattern they were attached to the element. remove the element from the brackets. The new element was an exact match. reversed the sequence. Put a pot of water on and boiled a hot dog! Perfect! Great part and speedy delivery!!

1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilitate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.

Turn off power, remove damage knobs and element, clean up burner and scorched surfaces, order parts, when received, installed

Slid oven out and took back shield off unplugged sensor took bracket screw out replaced sensor with new one.

This was a very smooth repair. In total it took about 5 minutes. The pot drawer below the oven wasn't gliding like it once did. After I replaced the glides it works like new. Please note, if you are going to replace one side go the next step and replace both to provide balance to the drawer.

I removed the bottom drawer,unplugged the Range and pulled it out to expose the rear cover panel. Using a nut driver (a screw driver can be used), I removed the rear panel to expose the Thermal fuse located almost dead center in the back of the Range. Unplug the two wires and loosen the screw holding it in position. Replace the thermal fuse, plug the two wires into the new part and replace the rear cover panel. Return the Range to its original position and plug it in. The job is done in less than 30 minutes.

Simply removed the bottom drawer, unscrew the old broken glide, and attach the new glide. Simple and no hassles.

First Things first, unplug unit, remove rear cover with Phillips head screwdriver, disconnect, wires from broiler element which is the top, one, open oven, unscrew top screws first, then two at the back, wiggle out element, then reverse Steps , test repair before putting cover back on. Then ta-da, you saved yourself a $300. Service call to the appliance repair guy.

Watched video & did just guy in video did. Very easy job & the burner works like new.

After doing a YouTube search. I successfully completed the repair by easily diagnosing the issue with the element.
I watched a video about 5 most common problems with whirlpool broiler elements.
The first being to inspect the element for damage. I found a small section that appeared to be rough and had a raised bump.
I decided to order a new element because the oven is older and it wouldn’t hurt to install a new one even if this wasn’t the issue.
Once the part arrived, which it did quickly, I followed the video instructions. It was easy and straight forward. I completed the task in under thirty minutes. It was very simple and I now have a functional broiler element.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

Unplug stove. Remove the two screws attaching the element to the rear of the oven. Carefully pull out. Disconnect wires. Reconnect wires. Screw back in. Done. The hardest part was moving the stove away from the wall.