HMG211447 Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

1. Unplugged fridge.
2. Unplugged wire harness from valve.
3. Disconnected water supply from valve.
4. Removed valve from fridge chassis
5. Removed plastic tube from valve (supplies ice maker).
6. Removed old fitting from plastic tube and attached to new valve.
7. Attached new valve to fridge (only need 1 screw)
8. Attached water supply to valve
9. Reattached wiring harness
10. Turned on water supply, checked for leaks
11. Powered on fridge.
12. Enjoy working ice maker.

First you must unplug the refrigerator, then remove the top hinge and freezer door, then you must remove the middle hinge to remove the refrigerator door, after that there are 4 screws located in the refrigerator compartment that must be removed that are holding the plastic control knob trim in place. When you remove these screws and drop the trim piece you can unplug the wiring on it, to completly remove it, next right above the plastic trim previously removed there is a metal trim with 3 screws holding it in place they will be removed now. Now you need to remove all of the shelving in the freezer compartment these pieces will just snap out , at the lower left and right sides of the freezer compartment there are two plastic tips that are attached to the main plastic body of this compartment they will need to be snapped out from behind the metal body of the refrigerator this can be done with a flat head screwdriver. Now pull straight out on the plastic body and it should come out , this will expose an insulating cover over the freezer coil where the defrost heater is located,if this is covered with ice you will need a heat gun which is a overgrown hair dryer basically. To melt the ice you will have to remove a insulating cover that is located behind the previously removed front metal trim it will come out by gently snapping it out of place, use caution during this step so not to break the cover in half. This will expose the front of the freezer coil and you can now use the heat gun to melt the ice, keep a check on the drain pan beneath the refrigerator as it will have to be emptied depending on the amount of ice build up. As the ice melts it should release the top cover of the coil and this will lift out of place also again use caution when removing the cover. With the coil exposed melt the remaining ice, if you look in the coil you will see the defrost heater, if the glass tube on the heater is broken please use extreme caution so you will not get cut by it , now you can unplug each wire from each side of the heater you may need a pair of pliers for this. when the wires are unplugged you can now lift out the bad heater again use caution if the glass is broken. There is a gaurd over the heater that will have to be removed by sliding it off the end wires when you have this off, slide it over the wires on the new element, now gently install the new heater back in the coil reconnect the 2 end wires and make sure they are connected good. you can now assemble all of the covers and parts in the reverse order you removed them, when assenbly is complete plug the refrigerator back in and in about three hours or so you should here the fan and compressor stop and the unit should go into a defrost cycle during this you should here the water running to the drain pan as it melts.

I had to adjust the tension wings on the shaft slightly so they would grip the new control. The new control knob slipped right on to the shaft and now I can tell what temperature the refrigerator is positioned at or reposition without having to use a pair of pliers to do it. PartSelect is the easiest and fastest service I've ever used.

Start: UNPLUG THE REFRIGERATOR FROM POWER! Then -

1. Shut off water supply to ice maker.

2. Remove panel from back of refrigerator to expose single outlet water valve.

3. Disconnect water supply line from single outlet water valve.

4. Remove single outlet water valve from refrigerator (one screw).

5. Disconnect water line from the ice maker side of the single outlet water valve.

6. Reconnect the water line from the icemaker side of the old valve to the new single outlet water valve.

7. Re-attach the new single outlet water valve (with water line leading to the ice maker attached) to the refrigerator.

8. Reconnect the water supply line to the single outlet water valve.

9. Turn on the water and check for leaks.

10. Replace panel covering single outlet water valve at back of refrigerator.

Finish: PLUG THE REFRIGERATOR BACK INTO POWER.

removed card board protection.4 screws. Unpluged refrigerator unscrewed the screw holding the valve but not all the way. disconnected the electric connection. removed the water connection after disconnecting the main water valve. replaced valve by reconnecting everything. Turned on water to check for leaks. Easy fix and recieved the part sooner then expected. Will highly recomend your fast service and correct part replacement. web site was easy to use. THANK YOU

I called a repair man from a pretty large name to come out and take a look. He found out in about 10 minutes that it was a bad capacitor. The quote he gave me was $75 for the part and $175 labor. I tried my best not to laugh and tell him no thank you. He did have to charge me for him to show up, which was only $98.
So I used what he told(minus the "scrap it") and opened it back up. Although he had left wires everywhere and the broken pieces laying inside, I thought it was enough for me to order the part. PartSelect was very easy to navigate and ordering was a breeze. Took about 4 days to get the part and I ordered in the X-mas craze. Fixed it in about 15 minutes.

I received the door shelf bars. They were 26 inches. I used a hack saw and cut them to 22 inches. Put them on.
Perfect fit!!

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Watched the video, big help.

we ordered 2 clips and all we had to do is put the clips on the shelf to hold it . very easy!!!!

First I unplugged the refrigerator. Next item was the ice-maker; remove (3) screws and unplug it from the back wall. Third task is remove the (4) screws that attach the back wall of the freezer compartment. Lift the wall up enough to dislodge the center cooling shaft that the fan rides in and remove the rear wall. The last item is the fan motor which is attached to the freezer wall by (2) screws and (3) wires which are easily removed. Change out the motor and reassemble freezer compartment .

The whole job went smoothly,just the way others have described it. Unfortunatlly the water valve was not the problem. The problem was that ice had formed where the water enter's the tray . and therefore could not get into the ice forming area and just spilled into the refrigerator. I removed the ice maker(2 screws and cable connector.) let the ice melt and reconnected all is well again.

First of all I want to thank Michael from Carlisle,PA and this site for publishing Michael's info on the wiring specifics on the new 3 connector Start Relay ( WP2262185 ). The original relay only has 2 connectors The 2 orange wires which are combined to one female connector need to be clipped and separated each to its own connector. Refer to Michael's blog as to which wire goes to which connector on the Start Relay. I replaced the Run Capacitor, Start Relay and Overload just to be safe. The Start Relay was the actual culprit.Thank you for an excellent website!

I was told to order the run capacitor and the technician thought it would repair the refrigerator; but it did not. The appliance technician had to take the run capacitor off and install what he called a "hard start" and the refrigerator is operating right now.

Ordered the leveling bolts, very fast shipping, parts correct as shown. Purchased a condo by the shore, frige had no levelers, they went in smoothly & was done in no time.
Steve