GY398LXPB00 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

I used the digital multimeter for measure the voltage in the burner and in the digital part,I saw the electric cables

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

It went fine once you imbeciles sent the right part, thank you for miss labeling it on the website and costing me time, a week without an oven, and extra expenses. The inner GLASS is the inner GLASS, not the middle glass of a layered three glass door!

It most likely would have gone quickly had we ordered the right part!

Unplug power cord, remove wires from block. take 2 screws out. replace with new block about 15 mins. Done

Simple - Removed oven door attached retainer with screw.Re attached door.

Whirlpool wanted three time the cost of the same parts The only shipping option was Fedex Overnight which was very costly.

Your prices are great "Parts Select".

Jan

Cut power to range in breaker panel. Then removed two screws (1/4" nutdriver) or phillips head just under top in front. No need to move range out from wall. Once those two screws were out, I lifted the top carefully (since wires are attached to back of range) and propped it up with a piece of spare lumber I had lying around. Then removed two screws holding right rear burner, and doing one wire at a time, pulled the wires from bad burner and reattached wires to new burner. Oh, I did need some pliers to pull the wires from the old burner; they were on real tight. ALSO, the old burner had a series of numbers around it. I quickly learned that these helped you line up the burner correctly. So I noted the numbers with the screw holes in the old burner and made sure I used the same number holes in the new burner. Once new wires were attached, I attached the new burner, aligning the same hole numbers as the removed burner, and everything lined up perfectly. Two screws were inserted to hold the burner. I lowered the top and reinserted the two screws under the front of the top and I was done. Total time was about 13 to 14 minutes. Honestly, very easy. Plus prior to me taking on the project, I had called a Maytag repair shop, who said their fee was $99, plus parts, plus any extra time required for labor, but the latter was not likely something that typically occured.

I went to the source of power on the stove and noticed one of the terminals had come loose from the terminal block and had shorted out against the cover of the terminal junction. After prying the loose terminal off cover I ordered new terminal block and received it the 2nd day. I removed the old terminal block and replaced the part in about 10 minutes..Thank you Parts Select for your easy to find diagrams and quick delivery.

Unscrewed the old thermostat took off the conectors then replaced with new one, and screwed it back on.

unscrew 3 screws under the control panel and pull that away from the glass top making sure the wires don't come apart from the connectors. care fully slide the glass forward and replace the burner which was the easy part. DO NOT try to test without making sure that none of the burner are touching the metal surface!!!!!!!! it will trip your breaker. But now we have a range with 4 burner after a year THANKS

Turned off the power/ unscrewed the oven from the cabinet and slid it out took the back off the oven and the part was right there. What I would like to know is why this happens so frequently? This is the 2nd time and it always happens after the self cleaning is done.

I watched a video on line about how to do the baking element. I did not want to take the door off so it made it more difficult to get to the back where the connections are located. The broiler element has screws holding it up where the over element is resting on the bottom. The video said that you should test the conductivity but I did not have the object needed to do that. It was supposed to solve 99% of the problem to just replace it. When it was removed, I could see that it had a hole blown out on the coil. Problem solved without a repairman needed which would have cost alot more and I still would have needed this part.

Remove power from appliance, verify power is off. loosen two side screws that hold cook top to counter top. Gently push appliance up from bottom, everything from now on is done gently !. every component is very fragile. hope you have enough room to move cook top to side, if not, have help to hold it for you. #2 screwdriver, remove screws on all sides, two front, 3 sides, 3 in back. Note placement of connected wires in the affected element. # 2 screwdriver remove one screw on bar holding set of elements, lift and loosen metal spring and remove element, ply wires off with pliers. ( I suggest you clean inside cook top if needed) Note place of springs(Numbers) and remove to place on new element. reverse order to complete.

I followed the step-by-step instructions from Steve on the part select videos posted on Youtube.

Took out the 2 screws and removed 2 wires connected to old element, put on new one. Did this all in about 5-10 minutes. Hubby didn't even have to help!