GTW220ACK7WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Drain all the water out of the tub with a shop vac
Remove rear drain hose and drained rest of water into a bucket
Remove small rear panel (bottom left hand corner) where the drain hose connects
Tipped washer up about 45 degrees to get underneath it - Supported it with a few paint cans
Remove internal drain hose/clamps from pump - w/ pliers
Remove belt cover (gray plastic) with socket - 3 bolts
Remove wire assembly plug from socket
Remove old drain pump with socket - 3 bolts
Install new drain pump - 3 bolts - plug wire assembly into socket
Reinstall belt cover - 3 bolts
Reinstall hose to drain pump (note panel will be inside washer)
Feed drain hose panel through hole and reinstall - 1 nut
Re attached drain hose to exterior drain plug
You are done !

Very simple to repair. Be sure to drain the tub outside or into the sump pump then lay the washer on its side. The pump is right there on the bottom of the basket with 3 bolts. You will also need to remove the belt cover to get to the plug. So simple and saves you hundreds off repair man prices.

I thought it was the control board from the onset, but 'Online experts" said it was more likely the mode shifter or the lid lock. I ordered one of each, did not correct problem. Ordered the control board that was designated for this unit, it did not correct problem. Defective? Was send replacememnt, did not fix problem. Twice? Phone conversation with parts person, and after a little digging, it was NOT the correct board, correct board was not available.
Returned all parts, refunds all around. Ordered correct board from another site, installed, programed, SUCCESS! Total repair time/installation-less than 15 minutes. Getting the correct part 30 days.

Tilt washer back.
Remove belt gaurd.
Remove belt.
Remove pulley.
Remove clutch and shifter.
Install in reverse order

Put washer on it side. Removed shield belt and pulley from motor.
Unplugged and unsnapped speed sensor and replaced with new one . Washer spinning like it should. Problem solved

Replacing was easier than opening the box it came in. Used a 7/16 socket and a few extensions to reach the bottom of the agitator. It came out super quick cleaned out the fabric softener older than my kids from under it. Lined up the groves of the new one and it slid easily. I took a small piece of painters tape and crumbled it into a small ball and put it in the socket to keep the bolt in place while it lowered it into the agitator. Made it snug and we were back in business good as new!!!

You will need to shut off the water, unplug the washer, disconnect the water lines, disconnect and drain the drain line, tip the washer either at an angle or on its side, remove motor cover, disconnect drain pump electrical cable, remove drain pump, install new drain pump, reconnect drain pump electrical cable, reconnect drain line and water supplies, turn water back on and test the washer.

Note: I thought the drain pump was bad for 2 reasons. 1 was the washer had previously started to smell, indicating the washer might not be fully draining. 2 was that the washer would agitate (meaning motor seemed fine) but when it would normally start draining before spinning, the washer would do nothing (could hear a faint hum coming from the washer).

year and a half old unit.
The Mode selector failed to properly engage the gears and gears were grinding.
O moved dryer out of area. And then turned off water, disconnected the hoses from wall. Placed hoses including drain hose into 5-gallon bucket and clamped so they would stay. I then moved washer away from wall about 2'. Then tipped it back against wall. Used 2x4 to keep it there as a support. (Doing this allowed me to keep it in the area and not dump water on floor. Then removed the gear guard, gears and mode selector. Reinstalled all parts and packed gears with synthetic grease made for plastic. It is now working like new. Parts were exact match. Took 30 minutes. Also cleaned the dryer vet line while I had it apart.

I watch a YouTube video with the same problem and follow each step

Cleaned pulleys. Replaced worn belt.

Removed the two 1/4" hex screws (one on each side of the control panel). Lifted the control panel off and let it hang behind the washer. Removed the connector on each side of the valve assembly. Removed the two 1/4" hex screws on the valve assembly and lifted the assembly out. Reversed the process to install.

I ordered a drive belt later to go with this repair which I wish I had done when I ordered the speed sensor and saved shipping. I think that was the real culprit. I had get customer service to help me with the part number because it wasn't listed on the parts list.

I set washer to drain and spin empty to get as much water out as possible. Tilted washer on its side on top of two thick cushions so was about a 15 degree angle off the floor and didn't spill leftover water in the drum.
I took the protective cover off using socket wrench for the 3 bolts. There was belt shreds all over the bottom. Took off smaller drive wheel with socket wrench in order to get to speed sensor. Speed sensor is connected on the motor frame. I used two small flathead screwdrivers in the slots to unsnap the old part. Cleaned off belt debris. Connected the new speed sensor wires first then should click into place. Put drive wheel back on. Put new belt on small drive wheel and lined up grooves. Note that the new drive belt will be smaller than the old one. I found the easiest way to get the new belt on is to hold it on the small wheel and start wrapping the belt on one side of the large wheel and rotating the wheels which is going to turn the drum. Sort of how you would rechain a bike which shows my age!
Put protective cover back on.

The last thing I did was since I had access to the bottom of the drum was to clean out the pressure line port which can lead to spin issues. It is about half an arms length up the side of drum above the drain hose. Its a small gray tubing attached to the drum. Pull the tubing off and it reveals a little port that can get clogged. Use your1/16th drill bit and put in the port about an inch to inch and half and clear out the port. Re-attach the hose firmly.

Machine working as good as new and clothes are almost bone dry now!

I unplugged the machine from the power source and removed the drain hose from the back and allowed any remaining water to drain out of the machine. I then tipped the machine back so that I could work underneath it and secured it in that position. I removed the old drain pump assembly by first disconnecting it from the outflow hose, then removing the three bolts which held the motor housing cover on and disconnecting it from the power source. This part was the the most difficult and time-consuming as the wires are plugged in very tightly but once those were separated, it was just a matter of unscrewing the drain pump assembly from where it was anchored to the underside of the washing machine. I simply reversed those steps to install the new one and it was in place within 10 minutes. Set the washing machine down in the correct position, reconnected the drain hose, and plug the machine in. I did reset the fault codes by using the manual found taped to the underside of the machine, but this was very simple to do and only took a few minutes. I’m not sure if it was necessary to do that step at the machine works perfectly now. I am a woman and found this repair very easy to do.

My son in law did it for me

Locked garage door.
Removed hoses after shutting off water.
Removed 4 10mm bolts and removed old valve and replaced.
Reverse the process.
Total time about 5 minutes.
Drank beer and then declared to wife after 30 minutes that the problem was solved.