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The freezer was whining and growling like a baby
I replaced the motor that runs the fan in the freezer compartment. Had to remove a number of shields to get to the fan and then some wires and screws to get at the motor. It came with a plug with 4 wires in it and I was supposed to pull 2 wires out of the old plug and place them in the new plug. Long story short the pins would not extract from the plug and the wiring harness was molded in solid plastic, so I ended up cutting the 4 wires to the motor and splicing in the new one and taping them with electrical tape. So far no more moaning and the ice cream is still hard, so I think we nailed it.
Took panel off back of inside of freezer section, took off old sensor from the evaporator, spliced new sensor into the existing wires, waterproofed spliced connections, snapped sensor back onto evaporator, then put panel back on the inside of the freezer. Really, it took only 10 minutes to fix. Now refrigerator defrosts like it used to, and temps have settled in at specified temps.
Noticed the problem in November 2009. Replaced Hi Limit Sesor for Defrost thinking it was the freezor temperature sensor. Did not fix the problem. Replaced Motherboard. Did not fix the problem. Called Sears Repair. They mis-diagnosed the problem and told me it was the sealed system. I doubted them and sent them home. Replaced the correct freezer temperature sensor that connects to the motherboard. FIXED. Removed a panel, cut two wires, soldered and insulated two wries, reinstalled panel.
1. content of freezer was put in an ice box 2. panel covering rear of freezer compartment was removed, a few screws 3. old fan now accessible was removed an new fan mounted. 4. modular wiring plug broke, wires had to be soldered and wrapped in heat shrunk insulation 5. compartment was cleaned an rear inside panel closed
Thanks for all those who shared their experience and the schematics available on website. It gave me the confidence to to this myself. Its my second repair in freezer (previous being a defective heater)
Not only were the parts delivered in 2 days....but a phillips head screw driver and matching up the new rails with the old ones turned out to be a super easy and fast repair!! A monkey could do this repair!! But now I noticed the left hand top drawer rail is cracked! It stinks that the quality of the original parts are so poor...but at least I'm saving some money doing it myself!!!
Very high pitch whine. Not real loud but really annoying.
First I hired a repairman and he said that it was in the unit and would not be worth the expense to fix.
I started to research on the net and this was one possible source. ( evaporator fan). I had to take it apart to verify it. Then put it back together to use until the part came.
The next time went much faster as I did not have to take near as many screws out to access the fan motor. Very Happy to have it working fine again as a new relacement would cost $1200. Thanks much. Ron
Freezer and fresh food section getting warm due to inside coils frosting over.
No self defrost. Measured heater coil with ohm meter which was OK (not open). Ordered 2 temp sensors (there are 2 in freezer, 2 in fresh food sections). The original and the new all meaured ~150 ohms. Replaced one by one. This did not fix problem. Ordered defrost thermostat. Original measured ~150 ohms - new one was ~100 ohms. Unpluged refridgerator. Removed coil panel (4 nut screws) in freezer and light cover (1 small phillips screw). Locate defrost thermostat clipped to top of coils (orange / pink wires). Cut wires and unclipped thermostat. Stripped insulation off of wires and reconnect using wire nuts. Clipped thermostat back to coils. Ran refridgerator without panel on coils to see if coils frosted up again and listend for fans/compressor to stop ( took hours). Opened freezer and viewed glow of defrost heater. Problem resolved.
I removed the shelf, unscrewed the slide rails and replaced them with new ones. I replaced the shelf, put the food back in and I was done. Thanks, john bowers
I had to remove the contents of the freezer, and remove the fan covers ( 2 screws) and the back of the freezer. I pulled out the evap motor assembly, removed the motor from that and re-installed the new motor into the assembly, (2 screws). Installed the evap assembly back into the freezer, ( another 2 screws), making sure to plug the motor into the wire harness and keeping the wires away from the fan blades. Then installed the back of the freezer (2 screws...again) and put on the 2 plastic pieces that completes the freezer assembly. I plugged the refrigerator back in and heard the fan start and knew everything was going to work fine
Poped out with screwdriver the old swithch and unplugged the two wires. Plugged in the wires to the new swithch and pushed it back in the hole where the old switch was before.
Switch failed on which kept the refrigerator warm due to heat generatered by light bulbs.
While the switch did last for 9 years, the design is poor due to the failure mode. The failure should be to fail off or not able to turn on the lights which would be inconvenient but would not warm the refrigerator contents. Arcing at the contacts eventually caused the switch to "weld" closed. It is not obvious that this is occurring so it took some time to recognize why the temp inside the ref was high while the freezer was OK. Replacing the switch was easy once it was recognized as the problem. All that was required to replace the switch was to remove the screws holding a fiber cover and then pulling off the aluminum cap which covered the switches. Unplug the switch an squeeze the keeper on the switch to release it and pull down. Pop the replacement switch in place and plug the wires harness back in. All in all it took much less time to replace than it has to write this up. T Pope
freezer fan failing; veried speed making whirling sounds
First, I removed all the shelves and the light guard. Second, I removed the nuts that held the fan guard and the freezer back in place (2 just under the fan guard and removed the freezer back. Third, lifted fan guard out of way (being very careful not to crack it..... cold plastic). Fourth, unpugged fan from pug then removed nuts that held fan bracket in place...removed fan. fifth, then removed fan blade and remove fan motor from bracket, removed two wires that went to freezer light (pay attention to where they go) and installed them into the new wireing harness. Sixth, installed fan blade on new motor, bolted new assembly in fan bracket, plugged in and reistalled fan into the freezer, replaced fan guard and freezer back (reverse order of above) and then replaced freezer racks. works beautiful.
the left drawer slide rail was broken from years of use.
First I removed the vegetable drawer and glass shelf. I matched up the 'new' drawer slide rail next to the broken slide. I then used a phillips head screwdriver to remove the 2 screws that held the slide in place. After removing the broken slide rail, I installed the new rail, replaced the vegetable drawer and glass shelf. New item worked like a charm. The drawer slide arrived really quick after my order was placed. Approx. 2 days after ordering the part, it was on my front door step.
The existing light switch was very hard to remove. I ended up having to grab it with a pair of pliers and pull it out. Once it was out, it was very easy to put in the replacement and it seems to be working fine.