GSEC746RFS1 Gibson Dryer - Instructions

my motor was making noise i tried to replace the motor but could not get the blower wheel off the motor so i had to buy a blower and housing assy. also... now it works great...

Motor replacement requires removing/releasing the top and front of the dryer, then removing the drum through the front of the dryer. The top is hinged at the rear and the front can be pried up. The front is held by two sheet metal screws that are accessible once the top is lifted up. Three screws hold the drum to the bearing at the rear of the drum. A small access door on the rear panel allows removal of the idler arm and its spring. You will need a socket drive with a short extension to remove the fan assembly from the motor at the front of the dryer, and it has a LEFT-HAND thread. The most difficult part of the replacement, once you figure out how to access everything, is getting the drum re-attached to the bearing at the rear of the drum. It can be hard to align the three screws, and once you have that done they need to be carefully tightened a few times after rotating the drum a few cycles, to get all the play out. Once the motor was replaced the dryer works like new.

Dryer door would not close, part had broke and fallen in. Once part was received it took less than an minute to put the new one in and I was back in business.

thanks for making it easy to find the part needed. and the delivery was fast!

bonnie J.

Rear plastic drum support bearing got worn making the shaft come in contact with the metal bearing bracket. That contact created a groove overtime and eventually snapped the shaft tip off.

Cut power off. Remove all the screws from the front panel. (where the controls are) working from the bottom to the top. Insert putty knife between the dryer and the control panel and push down to release. Carefully disconnect the wire harness.
You will find 2 screws at the bottom and 4 on top holding the dryer door. Remove and expose the drum.
Remove the drive belt
Remove the drum.
You need a 5/16 nut drive to remove the bearing bracket and an extra set of hands to hold the support from the back.
Re-install the parts. I used bearing grease to make it run smoother
Attach the new shaft to the drum and reinstall the drum (its best done with help)

Re install everything back again. And you are done

First I unplugged the dryer. I removed the 3 knobs on the front control panel as well as the 6 screws on the back. The start switch easily removes by turning it 45 degrees and pulls out. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to pull the two connectors loose from the old switch. (They are color coded wires, 1 brown and 1 gray. The switch is marked with the numbers 1 and 2 on the connectors so remember which one goes where) Then i hooked up the new switch in reverse order and was back in business in about 5 minutes.

Removed the front, door and all. Replaced both upper and lower seals and allowed glue to dry for 24 hours. Removed 3 screws attaching drum to pivot in rear. While drum was out, relubricated pivot seat and ball. Installed new drum which has been re-designed, has strip around entire lip now. Seals are different, so both have to be replaced with ones in kit, supplied tube of glue is not enough to do the job, so used gator glue. Had trouble installing the 3 screws that attach it to the pivot. Finally re-assembled entire front panel and replaced the door. Started the dryer and it worked as new.

The repair went very smoothly. I'm a woman in my mid 20's and was prepared to buy a new dryer but I saw the part online for a very reasonable price and the video instructions were extremely helpful. I was able to fix the dryer quickly and cost effectively AND the part arrived in only 2 days! It all worked out very well.

Basically, i followed instructions on 1 video i seen, but was able to shorten repair by not removing drum, and was still able to access the thermal limiter switch to remove old one and install new one. Worked like a charm. Thanks Dan

After the part arrived, I located a pair of needle nose pliers. Then removed the broken one and inserted the new one. It was very easy.
I also noted that the new part was of a better design than the original. It should not need further attention.

I noticed for sometime that my dryer had been sqeeking...but I had thought nothing of it. It got alot louder as time went on and then one day the drum stopped spinning. Not to mention I had my son's 5th birthday party in 3 days. So I went online and found parts select. They sent me the whole assembly and I got it the day before the birthday, and it only took me 30 mins to replace it. Thank you, Parts Select for the prompt response and saving me for the embarrasment of having clothes all over the floor.

First make sure dryer is unplugged.Next beware of sharp edges, this dryer has plenty. Remove 2 screws from kick panel,remove kick panel. Lay the kick panel aside, it makes a good "bowl" to hold screws.Remove 2 screws from top, located on back,remove top.Unplug the 2 sets of wiring connecting the front panel, the zip tie has to be unzipped, and if stripped should be replaced when reassembling. Remove 2 screws inside cabinet that hold front panel, near top. Remove 2 screws that hold front panel, in front and at bottom of front panel. Front panel is held in place by spring loaded clips, remove by pulling outward,a putty knife may be slid in to persuade it to pop off, be careful of scratching paint. There is a small panel on the back of the dryer held by 2 screws, remove to access the pulley that maintains tension on belt and release belt. Pay attention to the belt route through the tensioner to insure eaiser assembly later. Remove nylon drum retainer in front of cabinet at top, held in place by 1 screw. The drum may be lifted out and placed aside to access the heating unit(Don't place it on a hill, HaHa). The entire heating unit may be replaced, I opted to replace just the element, as it is much cheaper.
Use a flat screw driver to slip old female plugs off male element plugs, Use needle nose pliers to flatten tabs that hold male plugs of element in the ceramic housing. Remove old element, being careful not to damage any of the insulators. If the new element is not stretched out to about 46 inches "relaxed", carefully stretch it. Place one insulator slightly off-center on the element and place it into element housing. Plug in element into ceramic plug housing and bend the tabs to retain it. carefully begin putting in insulators, one at a time and reattaching element. Do not bend the element or cause any of the coils to touch each other. When all insulators are in place, plug in element and assemble dryer in reverse order. Mke sure belt is oriented with grooved side facing drum, and reach through the rear access panel to run belt through tensioner, make sure spring is attached with s-hook ends and belt is properly threaded. Reaasmble in reverse order, being careful to make sure drum bearing is seated properly, and drum "ring" of front panel is centered in drum. After dryer is assembled try it out on cool and work your way up to hot, and let it run a few minutes to get rid the new smell. Hope this will help.

Girls you can do it on your own!

The easiest way is taking the back off the dryer but if you can't do that just pop the top up and unscrew the front. Just make sure you remember how you take everything out and put it back in the same.

The most difficult part is trying to line up the holes for the heating element, and holding it there while screwing the element in place.

It's a breeze!

The hardest part was getting to the part and removing it and putting it back on. The schematics that you had on your website helped us locate where it needed to go and, hopefully, that will solve our problem.

first i removed the top -second I removed the two screws hold the front on - thrid I unpluged the wiring to remove the front - fourth I removed old part and cleaned off old glue -fifth I applied new glue and new part - sixth I reasembled - worked good as new

the catch on the door was worn and cracked.... so I noticed it could be easily popped out with a screw driver and when the new part came in the mail 2 days later, it was just as easy to pop back in with no tools required. Now the door stays shut really good!!!