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Scews from old one didn't fit the new one.
I had to bring the new handle to the Hardware store and have them pick out screws that would work. The only problem is that I live 12 miles one way from the Hardware store. My advise is to order scews when ordering the handle.
Removed back of stove, 8 screws, removed original latch assembly and installed new assembly. One thing that can cause you difficulty is that the rod that connects the assembly to the front latch on the door can disconnect and has to be reconnected.[Problem]
Remove oven racks. Remove bottom of oven. Mine was held in place by two large screws in the back part of the oven. They did not screw into anything. Lift out bottom from the rear. Remove burner cover plate by lifting the front and pulling out. Mine was not screwed in. The igniter is mounted on the burner and held by two 5/16 small bolts. The top one is easily accessible. The bottom is a real witch. You need 1/4inch socket set with universal connector to remove. There is a single wire attached to igniter by a wire clip. The wire is accessible by removing the bottom pan storage drawer under the oven door. Unclip the old attach the new. Screw two small bolts back in and replace things you took out. TURN GAS AND ELECTRICITY OFF BEFORE YOU BEGIN. Parts select should allow the igniter to be sold separately rather than connected to the burner. I only replaced the igniter. Replacing the burner would be a real chore.
removing the screws holding the burner together was impossible. they snapped off and I had to drill them out. that took the most time. after that it was 100% easy hookup. clean up of the burner was done with a wire brush. good quality products. thanks.
Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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The front drawer glide broke
Very easy. A couple of screws and it was repaired. Parts select makes it easy and affordable to do minor repairs on my appliance. This is the second time we have used this company to repair our oven and so far all has gone very well.
We needed a repair man to do the job because we did not have the tool to remove the screws on the burner heads. Also the on line diagram was not accurate. It actually was much simpler than showed in the diagram. Had we done the job, we would have done a lot of dismantling. The repair man removed the old top in a flash and the whole job took about 40 minutes. He knew what he was doing. Detailed instructions should come with the part so the do-it-yourselfer could figure out how to do the job.
First remove the oven racks and the burner cover in the bottom of the oven. There are two phillips screws near the back. Loosen the screws but it is not necessary to completely remove them. Pull out the bottom cover and this will expose the burner. There is one phillips screw at the front of the oven and one at the back. Remove these screws and set aside. You should be able to remove the burner and unplug the wire connected to it. Replace with a new burner in the reverse order. Plug in the wire and make sure the new burner is seated properly over the gas valve. It lines up pretty easily. Put the rear screw back in but be careful not to drop it into the hole otherwise you will have to use a magnet to retrieve it or pull the oven out because it will be on the floor. Replace the front screw and put everything else back together. Pretty easy job
take the 2 screws that hold the handle on out...watch the glass front and the side trims because the handle holds them on. Take the glass out then remove the side trims. Replace the side trims holding the glass in place with 2 pieces of masking tape om each side then install the handle with the 2 screws and remove the masking tape.
changing the part itself was easy, but the sheet metal covering the whole back of the oven was difficult to remove because of some screws that were stripped. The new sensor solved the problem.
Lifted the top disconnected the old valve and replaced with a new one.I believe the valve should have been shipped with two gaskets,. One for the bottom and another for the top. I reused the old one on the top with no problem but would have preferred a new one.
I had to use a dremel to grind the heads off the rusted in screws that hold the burners to the stove top then drill out the screws and use larger sheet metal screws to reassemble. Don't lift the stove top much with the burners attached or you'll bend the gas lines. Two screws inside the top oven hold the top down. Without the rusted screws it would be an easy job.
Take off the back panel of stove and unplugged timer motor and switch on door latch assembly,removed two screws that hold assembly and slide rod off. I put 110 volt plug to timer motor and it did not move, that is how I diagnosed problem. Ordered new assembly (cannot buy just timer motor)put new door latch assembly on and worked fine. Of course unplug stove before you start !
