GS2325GEKB Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed Ice carrier and diassembled the Ice carrier with a socket set. Four screws, cap came right off. Placed the new one on and finished.

Popped out broken switch with blunt flat edged instrument. Disconnected switch from unit . Plugged new piece in and reinserted into side panel of refrigerator. Very easy.

I removed ice bin and cover that sits ontop of the icemaker. I inserted the longer end of armwire assy first in the front part of the icemaker arm until it clicked in place then inserted the shorter end in the back side of icemaker arm and pressed until it went into the hole all the way through. This was very easy to install.

Couldn't figure out how to get the old one out till I saw the new one.Pop the old one out slide the 2 wires on the new one pop it back in place,good to go.

Removed the top hinge cover with Philips screwdriver. Removed the three bolts holding the top hinge in place. Removed the top hinge, and lifted the door off the remains of the lower hinge. Unbolted the remnants of the lower hinge closure mechanism and replaced it with the new set. Reassembled the door on the lower hinge, and then replaced and bolted back on the top hinge. Door back to full working order in less than fifteen minutes.

Just plugged it in

I had to cut a groove in the bushing to put the elec. wires through it, & then just remove the hinge, put the bushing in & replace the hing.

The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?

Ridiculous how easy it was, REALLY!

Removed old ejector arm and installed new part.

Refrigerator was not cold.

I had this problem before and it was the control vale in the back of the refrigerator. I ordered it and change that out in 5 minutes. That wasn’t the problem. I had the repairman come over and within 5 minutes he told me what the problem was. He showed me where the control board was. He then walked me through the removal process.

First remove the light cover on the Freezer & Refrigerator in front where the light button is located. Pull down on the front of the light cover. It pops out.

Second, in the front of the freezer & refrigerator temp control panel put your fingertips in front of the panel and pull down it’s hard to get the pins to release but the front pins will release, then pull down a little to allow the back hooks to release. (You can use a small common screwdriver if you can’t get it with your fingertips).

Next, once the panel is removed then disconnect the wiring harness. Then bring the panel to the counter, this is where you remove the circuit card and replace it. There are 4 hooks that hold the circuit board in place. Use a small common screwdriver to push the hooks away from the board. The new board comes as one piece. The board is perforated to allow you to snap the board. Directions come with the board and how to snap it. You will need to pay attention on how you removed the board. You will need to put the new board in the same way it came out.

Once the board is re-installed and lock into position reverse the process and install the control panel back into position.

Next is the programing of the board. Follow the directions that come with the control board and you will be back in business

This task took about 15 minutes to remove & replace and to program.

pull open seal lift up release bottem catch push in to release top catch clean disk and installnew seal put back in the reverse of taking out dont take any thing else apart

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.

Emptied and disassembled the freezer. Defrosted and dried the coils. Tested the defrost heater coil ( 50 ohms ) PRT and fan - all OK. Opened the lower back panel and cleaned the water collection tray. Vacuumed out all debris including coils underneath. Reassembled everything. Removed the old control board and installed the new board paying attention to ESD steps. Applied AC power. Programmed the new board per the video link ( nicely done ). 3 weeks later and the unit seems dry and happy. Running at lower settings with good temperature results. Suspect the 24VDC relay activating the defrost heater coil on the control board or what controls the relay not working. May pull relay for test.

I checked the element and the thermostat and determined the problem to be the control board. I simply followed the instruction in the video. Everything went well until the last step, the video said to push the freezer down button. When this did not work I refered to the written instructions which told me to push the up button. That did it. Job complete. The unit is working as it should.