GNE25JSKNFSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

As a lot of people have reported, the freezer door handle is attached to the freezer door with cheap plastic mounts. Since it takes some force to open a freezer, these eventually break. Unfortunately, you cannot buy the plastic mount pieces separately - you need to buy the whole handle. Even worse, for some models (like my GNE25JSKFFSS), they only list the threee handle set - which is hundreds of dollars - just to fix a small plastic part. Luckily I found this item, which is the exact freezer door handle w/plastic mounts that I need. It isn't listed for my model refrigerator for some reason, but it is the same part.
I also bought an extra set of the fastener handle assemblies - the part that screws into the freezer door to hold the mounts, because I broke one off when removing the old broken mount.
Once you have the parts, its easy.
If you need to replace the fasteners attached to the door, just unscrew the one screw on each and remove the fastener.
Put the new fasteners on - insert the small nub in the small hole in freezer door and insert the screw through the large hole and screw it in.

Once you have 2 fasteners on the door, line up the holes on the handle mounts over the fasteners - it does not seem to matter which direction is up for the handle. You should be able to push the handle in so that the fasteners go in the holes on the back of the mounts, and the mounts are flush with the door - move the handle around until it is flush. Then slide it to the right with a little bit of force to get the clips on the fasteners to engage. The handle should now be securely attached.

Replaced both temp sensors worked good for 2 days then began freezing food. Looked into it further on line. Found small motorized door broken that controls the cold air from the freezer

I took the advice off of your website about the only thing that will fix
the problem is change the run capacitor. I felt assured that I would
have a working refrigerator freezer after making this change. I was
pretty disheartened when it didn`t solve anything. I was not going to
take the new part back out after the small challenge of putting it in.
The next day I found out how to test the old capacitor and it was still
good. I will just have to eat the $49. I did learn not to take advice from
a website even if it seems like a sure thing

Remove rear plate. Remove fan bracket. Replace fan gaskets, blade and motor. Replace bracket. Replace rear plate. Very simple. Fixed the problem.

Instructions say run capacitor is by motor, but on this frige its in the refrigerator compartment. The capacitors looks different, one square and the other long

I visually inspected the compressor and narrowed down the source of the noise to the freezer area. Then I removed the doors and the screws securing the divider panel. Next I removed the bottom panel of the freezer, the styrofoam insullation panel and the evaporator motor. The motor is mounted between two grommets. I replaced the grommet facing the fan blades. The aluminum reflector below the styrofoam insulation panel had also come loose. I reattached it and reassembled the refrigerator in reverse order. The noise is gone!

unscrew fasteners and cleaned out "debris" from old handle with pliers. Put fasteners back in and installed new handle - slide from the side with the raised pieces until you hear a click - done

Replace the motor fan on condenser and clean the condenser

no brainer took out the old put in the new! approximately 7 seconds total time.

The repair did not go exactly the way it was described in the YouTube video, but basically it was similar. After unplugging the power cord, emptying the freezer, removing the shelves and the ice reservoir, I removed the ice maker assembly by unscrewing a Philips head screw and unplugging the power connector. The connector had little retaining tabs on each side that I pried open with a straight blade screwdriver. Then the ice maker lifted right out. Next I removed one screw holding the auger motor assembly, unplugged the power connector, and lifted out the assembly. This where things got difficult. After flailing around a bit, I removed the panel on the back wall of the freezer below the evaporator fan assembly, exposing the evaporator coil. I saw that the fan assembly was attached with two screws at the top and two screws at the bottom. The top screws were easily removed, but when I removed the bottom screws, which were situated in very tight quarters, I DROPPED BOTH SCREWS DOWN BEHIND THE EVAPORATOR COIL. Be prepared with a magnetic nutdriver so this doesn't happen to you. I could not retrieve the lost screws, but fortunately it appears that the top screws hold the assembly securely enough. The assembly was loose, but it was still attached by a power cord that I could not disconnect. I removed the tracks on the side walls for the ice bucket, and then I could maneuver the fan motor assembly just enough that I could reach over the top of it, grab and pull off the old fan blade, and slide the new fan blade onto the shaft. Reassembly was straightforward, replacing each part (except two lost screws) in reverse order to disassembly. After getting everything put back in and plugging in the power cord, I was amazed at how quiet it ran.

After ordering these expensive plastic, doomed to break again and again fasteners I had a fella make some on a 3d printer, each one for under 1 cent!!! Not the 7.50 each I paid here.

Remove the screws from the two door pivot covers. Remove the covers and set aside. Remove the screws from the control board; disconnect the electrical connections; remove the door light switch, install door light switch then reinstall everything.

Simply take off the back panel. Remove the old run capacitor which is attached to the compressor by a white part. It pulls right off. You will have to unplug two wires. I took a pic to ensure I plugged the wires back up the correct way. Then I attached the new capacitor to the white part and put on the sleeve that was included, plugged it back into the compressor and zip tied the excess part of the sleeve. Once done plug fridge back up (always unplug electric devices when doing maintenance) to check before replacing back panel. It may take a few minutes before it kicks on.

Snapped broken one out, snapped new one in. Flawless.

1 opened door 2. pryed cover off from cieling 3.cut and stripped wires on 4. sodered wires from old wires to new sensor. 5 insulated conection.6 put cover back on. This did not fix the problem it was the control moduel.