GLGF376DQF Frigidaire Range - Instructions

removed two screws disconnected inlet pipe and two outlet pipes, removed regulator. Replaced with new regulator. performed leak Test.

Disconnected power, I removed the igniter from oven. Measured the resistance (275 ohms) and then the current draw. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS UNLESS YOU ARE ABLE TO ACCOMPLISH THIS SAFELY. I made a harness and connected the old igniter to 110 V ac, Current draw thru the meter settled at 2.7 Amps. Too weak to fully open gas valve. Valve requires 3.2 - 3.6 amps to fully operate properly. New igniter measured 300 ohms and current draw was 3.4 amps. Installed new part and everything works fine. Correct part and good service from this site

Removed grates and range cover, unscrewed all sheet metal screws and removed cover plate. Disconnect electrical connector and then removed old ignitor/orifice ass and replaced it with the new one. Replaced all screws in cover plate and then reattached range cover and grates. Turned on the gas and it lit after a few sparks took place.

I made the repair by removing two screws from the ends of the handle that were attached to the oven door and then reattaching the $88 plastic oven door handle with the same screws in the existing holes. At that price the door handle and I both got screwed very well!

Sensor very accessible. Pull off the back panel, disconect the sensor and slide out from back of oven. The original plug was cut off the sensor, as well as the new one to get the proper connector type on the new sensor. Soldered and heat shrink, and presto we had our new sensor ready for install. Install was about 5 minutes which included putting the back panel on the range. Pretty easy and works like new. Total time for project was about 20 minutes.

Simple: remove the element by hand and replace new one.

I can't believe how quickly I received my new part -literally next day.

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

had to use a tap and cut new threads. Also had to remove the top of the range, and the metal cover under the top.

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

Your service was OUTSTANDING...Ordered one afternoon, and before lunch time the next day, the delivery man rang my door bell...Thanks a bunch for you excellent service.....

The range top had to be taken off along with the front panel to get access to the place the burner pipe connects. It took more time to unassemble and assemble the range than repacing the burner. The only issue was that the burner was sent without the bolts that will hold it in place so I had to go to local hardware store to get appropriate bolts.

took the two screws out by hand, slipped out the ruined panel, slid the new one in place, replaced the two screws...simple as that

I couldn't unscrew the leveling foot because it was rusted and corroded. The bracket holding it was easy to remove so I took the bracket with the corroded foot off and replaced it with the new foot and bracket. Very simple. I made sure I oiled it so it wouldn't rust again.

Watched the repair video on your web site. Used the video as a step by step guide in the actual repair.

The installation of the bake burner tube went well. I followed the instructions within the Video as it pertains to replacing the Bake igniter. That video also describes the removal and replacement of the bake burner tube. The original screws that mounted the igniter to the burner tube bracket were damaged. I replaced them with 18-8 Stainless Steel Serrated-Flange Hex Head Screws, 8-32 Thread Size, 3/8" long. As noted in the video, the oven bottom panel is removed using a flat head screwdriver. For all other screws I used a 1/4" socket and ratchet. A Nut Driver would have also worked just as well. On initial start-up after the repair there was a minor light odor from the flame coming into contact with the new metal burner tube that dissipated within a few moments. In all everything went very well.