GLFU21F8HWG Frigidaire Freezer - Instructions

My issue was water leaking from the door. I thought it was the gasket, so I removed the gasket and the entire panel off of the door. There was water behind it that had soaked the cardboard seal, so I left that front part off for over a week to let it dry. We determined between us and our two toddlers that perhaps the door hadn't been properly closed enough on a number of occasions, so before I bought a $100 gasket, I'd try making sure the door was shut with tape, turning the freezer on and seeing what happened. There was no water after a few days, so on another user's suggestion I purchased the $15 key and twist tied it to the freezer door. Now I am locking the door after use so we won't have leaking water any longer.

Removed evap cover from Commercial Refrigerator. Removed mounting screws from Evap motor mount. Replaced evap fan motor. Repositioned. Reinstalled evap cover. Tested . This motor was hard to find locally. Glad I called.

Took out screws completely then had to wedge gasket underneath. Gasket comes a little tangled in box should remove immediately and keep at room temp till ready to use.

Layed the seal out in the driveway in the sun to warm it up. Unscrewed the screws, not all the way. Removed old seal. Stared at the top corner, working our way around, making sure corners lined up. Don't pull on the seal or you will stretch it. Once it's applied and all corners are lined up, tighten crews down lightly. The seal mediately stuck but it took a few hours for the vacuum to suck it down. Easy breezy!

I followed the video. It’s not that it’s a bit difficult, it’s just going slowly and carefully.
The thing that I didn’t allow the 24 hours for the gasket to relax after leaving the box. Also, I forgot to heat the gasket and put a small layer of Vaseline.
So the next day I noticed the the gasket wasn’t seating properly and went back to the video and carefully followed the steps to gently heat it with a hair dryer and Vaseline. The gentle heat let the gasket properly relax and seat. The Vaseline helped created a small vacuum to complete the gaskets “training” to seal properly.
24 hours later it was beautiful and the freezer was working like new.
Parts Select was great to deal with.

I removed the shelves, unscrewed the cover panel of the fan motor and regulator dial, disconnected the fan motor from power, unscrewed 2 screws holding the motor to the mounting bracket and put the new motor in it's place. New motor had no thread in the mounting holes, so I put new tread in so I could use the 2 screws. Another option would have been to drill all the way through the mounting holes and use longer screws or bolts. Of course I turned the power off before I started repairs. Freezer runs like new now. Technicians wanted $400 for the job, while it cost me a mere $55 for the Motor.

The replacement of the Thermistor is a snap. Take out the bottom two shelves, remove the 8 screws in the back panel, pull it out. Cut the wires to the old thermistor and install the new one. There are demo's on you tube so I wont go into detail.

Unfortunately the replacement door seal was packaged with twists in it and would not lay flat on the door. I found the old seal was not the problem - but instead ice had grown between the door and the door panel so that the door would not seal properly. I reinstalled the old door seal and everything is fine now.

Best way is to watch the video on YouTube and follow the directions

As noted, the control board comes without a new housing, bare control board only. I was unable to find a replacement housing. It is impossible to remove the housing from the freezer without breaking the outer retaining tabs.

Unplug the freezer and apply tape on the door around the housing to prevent scratching the paint. Pry the housing out of the door from the front with a stout putty knife or two, which requires a good deal of force. Once the housing is removed from the door, the circuit board comes out of the housing fairly easily following the instructions included with the new control board, and the new board snaps right in to the old housing.

The housing re-installed OK and stays in place acceptably well even with broken retaining tabs.

From discussions with friends, I determined the problem might be easy to fix. The fridge made a lot of noise, but the compressor DID come on, and inside the freezer was cold, but the main fridge was warming.

After unplugging the fridge, I removed the fan assembly in the freezer (there were about 4 nuts and a couple of plugs to uncouple.

I could see right away the fan blades has broken off, but the motor looked good. The new new fan pushed easily onto the shift and fit perfectly in the housing.

I reinstalled the fan assembly, plugged in the fridge, and right away heard the new fan come on - very quietly. What was a roar became a whisper and the fridge was down to 38 degrees with a few hours.

Just slid the new door bin in place

I order another one thanks

1. I took out one screw on the ice maker and loosened the other two screws and unplugged and removed the ice maker.
2. Next I took out 2 screws from the bottom of the auger drive box and unplugged the wiring harness and removed the box. The wiring harness was a little tricky. The lock on the plug pushes in to unlock even though it looks like it pulls out,.
3.next you must remove 2 screws from the left side bracket that holds the auger box and remove the bracket.
4.Now take out 8 screws that hold the back panel in place and remove the back panel.
5. now your looking at the evaporator fan blade and motor. The simple way to replace the fan blade is to unplug the motor and remove it from the freezer. It just sits in with nothing holding it. The fan requires a little pressure but should pull right off. Install new fan blade and put everything back in the same order it was removed.

took door of removed gasket replaced

VERY SIMPLE - PUT BIN ON PEGS ON THE FREEZER DOOR