GFRF2KBYAWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Took cover off, pushed blade on, and replaced cover

Un Plugged the frig. Unlocked the socket by pressing down on the latch. Pulled the socket out ensuring I had enough slack. Unplugged the old socket installed the new. Plugged the frig back in. Tested the switch . Very easy-to-use.

It was way to ez to install only a couple of minutes that's it

On the internet forum I read that if the control board needs to be changed , do the same for the Run Capacitor/relay.
The Ge profile refrigerator was 15 years old. First I disconnect the power cord,
I removed the control board at the back of the fridge, replaced it with a new one and did the same for the run capacitor.
Plugged the power cord back and it works fine. GE repair service did not want to come to do it. DIY is fine.

pluged the wire harness into the new socket from the back and snaped the socket in place.

Pulled the two wires out from the access hole in the lower part of the refrigerator. Put them in the spade connectors on the new switch, and pushed the switch into place.

Frig parts had been scavenged in an apartment complex. Restoring socket was only a matter of plugging in two spade contacts and clipping in socket.

Just as your video described, although due to the age of the fridge, it took a bit longer to remove the defective switch. Your video made this so simple, I can't imagine why we lived with a dark fridge for so long! I was ready to buy a whole new fridge, as repairmen are often nonexistent for small repairs. I am the biggest fan of your company & it's repair video. THANK YOU SO MUCH

Using plyers Pulled old switch down and out. Put new one in and pushed new switch up into position. The switch plugs into the contacts, no wiring needed. Worked like a charm. You saved me 200 dollars GE repair bill. Thanks

I replaced the thermostat, temperature sensor, and the run capacitor. . . Refrigerator still not cooling. I checked the start relay and measured the input terminals on the compressor for the correct resistance. . . Everything measured correctly. In a last ditch effort before calling for service, I pulled the main board, inspected it and saw the problem right away. One leg on the compression capacitor had desoldered itself. Got out my soldering iron and applied a good amount of solder to that point. Put everything back together and turn it on. . . Problem fixed. The compressor kicked on right away and started cooling the refrigerator.

Removed rer cover, unplugged starter assembly from side of compressor and replaced unit with a new one. Plugged fridge in and it works good.

The repair is a snap, you can watch the video and it will put you on the right path. My story is more about the service that Part Select gave me. I used a small box fan on low as a temporary fix. My model number was worn off from the box wine we store in that particular place. So I ordered the part based on looks, well it was wrong. Called Part Select and we talked, the nice lady on the other end said OH it must be this fan motor. Send us back that one, and I'll get this out too you. I'll credit your account for $7.99, and it cost me $8.99 to ship back the wrong part. Wow, the next day I received the new motor. They sent it overnight! I thought it would be 5-6 days! Unbelievable. I will use this company for any, and all my repairs.

My brother-in-law is a 15 year refrigeration technician who I called and described the problem to. He told me to put an "amp clamp" on the line side of the wires (black) that go to the starting controls on the side of the compressor. The motor has a label that has a number on it (LRA) that he used to determine the max amps it would pull. In this case, if the motor pulled 10 amps, then the motor was bad and I'd have to buy a new refrigerator. It was pulling less then 9 amps so he thought to buy a new overload, since the capacitor checked out (measured by multi-meter). As soon as the part came, I removed the back panel (4 screws removed by nut driver), removed the clip that holds the overload/capacitor assembly, detached the two wires from it, and removed the capacitor from the overload. I swapped in the new overload and repeated the above process in reverse. The only difficulty was that the new part was different in that the plug-in locations for the two wires were in different locations, and not marked. I had to disassemble the old part to figure out how it worked so I could deduce how the new one plugged in. Once that was solved, it was a quick fix. This was not a repair that just anyone could do; it required someone with a lot of experience to help me, and I am an engineer.

I identified the noise was coming from the coils / and the fan. Cleaning the fan helped reduce the noise a bit but it still kept recurring. I ordered the part, which was really easy using the diagram on the website. The instructions and the video were really helpful and was able to remove the old motor and replace it with the new one with relative ease. While there I cleaned the fan blade and vacuumed the surrounding area. This whole repair went quite smoothly and has given me the confidence to take on other repairs before calling out the repairman.

Took out shelf, unscrewed old track, screwed on new track. Only thing is not a standard flat or Phillips screw head so if you don't have a star head bit, you are out of luck.