GFMN110GL0WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Pulled the unit all apart to replace the rear drum bearing. Also replaced the front bearing. Works like brand new. Easier then I thought

One thing to note that I didn't immediately notice. Upon removing the front panel, there is a chance the drum will stick and when you separate the front panel from the drum, this will pull it from the rear bearing. We did not initially realize this was the case until the dryer was back together and would not run. If there is any resistance, we found the easiest way to solve the issue is to lay the dryer supported on its back, then everything slides in and out. the second time through from start to finish took less than 10 minutes. I loved the videos and the parts. I tried cheating and getting the parts on amazon, and wound up buying from this site anyway and paying even more to have it rush shipped.. All in all super glad I did it and didn't buy a new dryer, I think we can tackle replacing anything on it at this point.

removed top of unit, control panel and front of dryer. Disassembled assembly and installed new housing and glides, reassembled and checked operation

Took out interlock switch (two leads) and replaced with new one. As simple as that.

My washer and dryer set are stackable. First I had to take the dryer down from atop the washer. I thought the problem was the rear bearing.
When I received the new rear bearing I watched the video and proceeded to take the unit apart and then I realized the top bearing, slides and the felt seal were completely destroyed so I ordered the rest of the parts I needed It took about 5 days to get the parts and less than 30 min to install. The videos were a big help. I had no Idea what I was doing and was surprised how easy it was. It was a Big savings over buying a new dryer.

I watched a video and followed the video instructions. Spot on and fixed the problem. Very easy repair.

pull top and front of dryer (6 screws), take belt off drum and pull drum out the front of dryer. Take the three star head screws out of stainless heat vent inside of drum and take old bearing housing out of back wall of dryer housing. Pretty much self evident putting everything back in, some trouble installing new bearing housing in back wall of dryer, screws are hard to turn in by hand (new hole). Vacum inside of dryer housing, install everything the way in came out, , plug it in and WA-LA.

Replace the front and rear bearings. When I have to do it again I will only order (3106), (313), 2x (316) green, 2x (316) white, and drive belt. Taking it apart and putting it back together was easy. Unplug the unit. Take out the 2 philips screws that hold on the top. Lift the top from the front to clear the locking tabs in the back and take it off. Take out the 2 5/16 screws that hold on the front. Tilt the front (door) forward and rest the drum on the dryer sides, you'll see it. Disconnect the wiring harness for the light and door switch, 2 wires. Lift the front off the bottom retaining clips and place aside. Have someone hold up the drum. Reach under and unhook the drive belt. Pull out the drum assembly. Take off the rear bearing, 3 screws. Clean out the heating element area in the back of the dryer while you have a chance. Replace the bearing assembly. I bought the entire bearing assembly but I could have gotten away with just the sleeve ( 3106), but I didn't know that at the time. Take off and replace the drive belt. Lock the tension arm for the drive belt into the compressed position shelf holder by the motor, push the arm down, you'll see it. Replace the drum and have someone hold it up while you rehook the drive belt and release the tension arm. Now, I would suggest replacing the entire front bearing. If the slides have been bad for a while, the plastic bearing (housing) is probably worn out and cracked. I had to order a front bearing assembly because the new slides wouldn't work with the worn out assembly, no big deal, it came quick. Unscrew the light bulb. Slowly pull the assembly away from the top of the front metal panel, slowly, and pay attention to where everything lines up. Replace the new front bearing and put the new slides on the little plastic tabs, be careful so you don't snap them off. Green on top, white on the sides. Replace the lightbulb. Set the front panel into place on the tabs at the bottom of the dryer. Rehook the door wires (2), and have someone hold up the drum while you slide the front bearing into the drum. Holding the front panel in place, turn the drum by hand and check for binding, things that don't sound or look right. Replace the 2 nuts to hold on the front. Plug it in, keep your hands back, turn it on, look, listen, everything fine. Open door, unplug, replace the top and the 2 screws that hold it on. Plug in, turn it on and check for any noise, you shouldn't hear any. If you do, you didn't do something right or maybe your drive pulleys are bad. A good dad and son job; especially getting on the ground and reaching under to deal with the drive belt. Watch out for sharp edges on the sheet metal and be slow and careful with the front plastic bearing so it doesn't snap. Your now good for 5 more years. A 2 on the difficulty scale, just take it slow and have an extra set of hands.

i follow your video and all went well except now the dryer will not heat. i went back on your site an tried the no heat option an still no heat

Worn out top bearing plastic part and worn out felt. Removed top part of the front where the dial and buttons are, then the top, then the front where the parts I was replacing were. It was overall easy and didn't require a cdertified repair person. These were parts that were worn out. I am dissapointed in the GE product. It is only 3 1/2 yrs old and already worn out. Poor design and poor quality parts. I will look at other brands next time when replacing the front loading dryer and washer. Overall a faril;y easy repair that most mechnicaaly oreinted person can do. Also thaks to partselct for the diagrams which helped tremendously with meticulous parts.

Follow YouTube "how to change dryer's belt" some video is very clear.

Replaced the rear drum bearing, Front drum bearing,front bearing tabs and belt. I replaced the belt from the front of dryer. Better to go thru the back. Much easier.

Be sure to segregate and label all screws.
Remove back and front of control panel.
Removed dryer top.
Removed dryer front/door panel.
Replaced slides. Due to discoloration it was hard to tell the white fr the green. Double checked partselect videos to be sure which was which.
Propped up drum with the dowel to allow enough room to access the coils. One of the screws was frozen. Soaked in penetrating oil for 30 minutes. Then used a Philips headed socket to break it free. Used needle nose pliers to lift out old coils and to place new coils.
Reversed process to reinstall all panels.
Crossed fingers and tested. AOK.

Easy repair, but did take a little longer than anticipated due to the extra cleaning that I did while the dryer was disassembled (highly recommend). First, unplug the power cord. Then, open the door, and locate the two screws in the upper corners, and remove. This will allow you to remove the top cover. Be careful and work the top panel up and down to loosen the control panel tabs, and set aside top panel. Next, remove the two screws located near the top on the inside of the front panel. Removing these two screws will allow you to lean the front panel forward, lift up, releasing the tabs holding the bottom of the panel. Be careful when you pull the front panel from the dryer as you will need to lift the drum off of the front bearing which is attached to the front panel as it is removed. You will also need to use your needle nose pliers to remove the wires prior to setting the panel aside. The wires are straight forward and power the light at the top, and the safety door switch. I always take a picture with my phone's camera just to validate when I re-connect them. Reaching underneath the drum you will be able to feel the belt and belt tensioner pulley. With both hands under the drum, use one hand to push the pulley to the right, releasing tension on the belt. Move the belt out of the groove, and let it hang freely. Now from the top of the drum, bump the drum to loosen, and remove from the cabinet. It is a tight fit, so you will need to spread the sides slightly in order to remove the drum. Next, remove the 3 screws holding the heat diffuser in the rear of the drum in order to remove the rear drum bearing. (Tip: It would be nice to have a helper hold the new drum bearing in place when starting the screws, and it also helped to tighten each a little at a time to keep the new bearing flat as it was drawn up next to the drum.) Tighten the screws holding the new bearing in place. Next, remove the 4 small screws holding the heating element housing to the rear of the dryer. (Tip: Rather than disconnecting the wires, I used a bent coat hanger to hold the housing while I removed the bearing retainer and clip from the rear of the housing.) Remove the 4 screws holding the bearing retainer and clip, and replace with you new part, paying close attention to the clip's position, and tighten. Replace the housing to the rear of the dryer. (Tip: Now is a good time to familiarize yourself with the belt and tensioner pulley for reassembly. Also, it may be a good idea to look at your belt, and replace as needed.) Next, reinstall the drum and insert the new bearing shaft into the new bearing housing. Using both hands again, reach underneath the drum, locate the tensioner pulley, and belt. Push the tensioner pulley over to the right, and move belt over the pulley on the motor, and behind the tensioner pulley. The belt should be tight. If not, inspect to ensure that the belt is over the motor pulley, and the tensioner pulley. Next step is to reinstall the front panel. I also spent the extra money and replaced the front drum bearing, and slides. Please note that the green slides are on top, and the white slides are on the bottom. Lift the panel over the tabs, lean forward while lifting the tub, resting the tub on the front bearing. Reinstall two screws in the upper corners, and tighten the front panel back in place. Now is a good time to turn the drum to ensure that the belt is in place, and that the drum turns correctly. (Tip: If your dryer is equipped with a light, you may also want to replace the bulb in the front panel (if needed) prior to attaching the front panel.) Reinstall the top panel by aligning the tabs in the control panel with the top panel, being careful not to bend the tabs. Next, open the front door and use the 2 long screws to reattach the top panel to the front panel. Plug in power cord.

Pull the two scews to release the top of the cabinet. Pull the two screws to release the face of the cabinet and tilt out.
Take the old slide out and install the new ones.
Put it back together.
No more squeeks
My wife thinks I'm a genius...