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Gasket at the bottom of the door disintegrated.
Took off the kickplate, diconnected the wires and removed the whole door by lifting straight up, removing spring wires from hinges. Once door is disconnected from the machine, removed one hinge by removing bolt. Slid gasket into place, secured hinge back in place, then reconnected wires at bottom, replaced hinge spring wires and slid door back down onto hinges. Now that we know how to do it, could do it in 15 min to half hour.
1. Turn off breaker supplying power to dishwasher in electrical panel 2. Open dishwasher door 3. Unscrew the screws that secure the dishwasher to the counter. 4. Tip dishwasher forward. Identify the non-functioning door latch. It looks exactly like the replacement. Unclip the wire harness from the door latch. 5. On the inside of the dishwasher, there are 2 screws directly under the door latch. Unscrew them and carefully set aside. 6. Remove old door latch. 7. Set new door latch in place. Holding securely, replace screws removed in step 5. Toward the end they get a little tougher to screw in. 8. Plug wire harness into new door latch. 9. Re-align dishwasher and re-secure to counter in previous position. 10. Test latch to make sure it closes properly. 11. Turn on breaker in electrical panel. The dishwasher should now function properly.
this was ordered 4-9-21 and I have yet to receive it. Its difficult to explain the installation when you haven't received the main part. I paid for this but you have not shipped it. Very poor customer service.
This didn't work out well. At the beginning of September the control panel in the door started to work erratically, the lighted buttons did not light up as expected. I ordered a replacement board and installed it. CONFIGURED UI SERVICE CONTROL Part #: PS16618944 This did not help, so I ordered another control board and installed it. CONFIGURED SERVICE MACHINE CONTROL BOARD Part #: PS16226072. This did not help. This control board has a small orange fuse that looks like an old fashioned transistor. it was fine, as was the fuse on the previous control board. There were two things about the Control boards that might help someone figure out what went wrong. When I took out the original control board, there was evidence of component overheating. When I installed the new control board there was a green light that was blinking. I had hoped to complete this repair, but we have been without a dishwasher for over a month, so I bought a new one. (I am a competent Instrumentation and Controls technician) It could be that there is a bigger issue here; a major component failure. If anyone has some suggestions to try, I would like to repair the machine and sell it as a used appliance.
The detergent tray wouldn't open during wash cycle
1. Pull out dishwasher (not all the way) 2. Open the door. 3. Remove the white rope holding the door hinge (both sides) 4. Remove the door by pulling up when the door is open about 4-8 inches. 5. Lay the door on the floor ( put something under the door so not to scratch the front. 6. Remove the small bolt at the bottom of the door (both sides). 7. Slide the hinge back, up, then out. 8. Where the hinges were are another set of bolts, remove those (both sides) 9. Grab the top part of the door (the part with the buttons) and slide apart. 10. Remove the styrofoam carefully. 11. Disconnect the wiring harness. 12. Remove the 6 screws holding the Despenser tray in place. 13. Put in new Despenser tray and put everything back together.
Water leak, no power,shorted control motherboard, diverter passive main assembly rubber hose had hole in it.
repair under warranty for Home Depot. Ordered new controller, new sump manifold, new piranh clamp kit, new diverter passive main assy, installation took 6 months. Could not finish as GE had changed the diverter to a new design with the same part number that the repairman had no knowledge of and there is no part available for the same configuration of the one that went bad, after I called GE tech line they were not aware of updates. Giving me the same numbers. The new design works if you order a new conduit main. As the old one in the dishwasher will not connect to the new Diverter. New deverter no. WD19X25278 and the new main conduit is the same as the old configuration no.WD12X21681 . The repair people and parts people are not yet aware of the design change and availability of parts, as most are out of stock and no updated pictures of the new design. Repair warranty washed their hands of this and Home Depot after 6 months gave me credit of my full price I bought this for 3 yrs ago. Repairing myself and sell.
The service rack vinyl coating had worn off on the rails on the bottom resulting in the metal being exposed and rusted.
Could not do the repair. The incorrect service rack was shipped. It was a different model than what was ordered. It was a different size and would not fit. Had to ship it back at my own expense. Service rack was $77.03 and that has been reimbursed. The return shipping cost to me was $43.75. That expense still has not been reimbursed. I do not want to risk ordering another service rack and risk having to go through the same type of service again.
I listened to the DW cycles to be sure it was the drain pump (no water passes through discharge tube). We already had checked inside filter and our drain line. I watched video and saw it was a simple change. We unplugged and removed the pump and the new one fit exactly-it came with several clamps. Very simple & effective!
I fixed this issue by replacing the Dishwasher Tub Gasket (PS11774412) and the gasket on the bottom of the door (PS11700870). Replacing the tub gasket is very easy and straight forward. You just pull it off and put the new one on. The door gasket was much more complicated. See the steps required for replacement below:
The * indicates the part number in the diagram I am referencing
1. Remove the Toe Kick Assembly (*759) 2. Remove screws holding dishwasher to counter and pull the dishwasher out 3. With door shut, disengage the springs on both sides from the arm hinge assemblies *800 (I did this by taking the rope off the pulley hinge *734) 4. Disconnect the wire going from the dishwasher body to the door (there are two or three supports for the wire that need to be removed for it to come free) 5. Open the door about 15 degrees and pull the door upward (only one angle will work for removing the door) 6. Place the door on its front on the ground 7. Remove the two screws (*745) that hold one of the arm hinge assemblies to the door and pull the hinge away from the door (you don't need to pull it all of the way out) 8. Pull the old gasket out to the side and install the new gasket
Water would stay in the bottom of dishwasher and not pump out.
Disconnect the power and turn off water.I took the whole dishwasher out ,laid it on its side.I then unscrew the bracket that holds the pump in place.then took off the two hose clamps and took off the pump.I then installed the new pump with the new pump and hose clamps from the new kit I got.when I looked at the old pump I noticed it comes apart so I open it and noticed a toy ring gemstone price of plastic was stuck inside the pump.So at w I found out what the problem was.I was very happy that all went so wellin putting all back together and it worked. Thanks so much made me and wife happy.
Terrible! Bottom rack was wrong... original was discontinued. Fork and knife holder did not fit in original location. Parts company new this and still processed the order! Disaster!
Sprayer arms didn't operate and dishes were not cleaned
We bought this GE dishwasher new. After 9 months, we started noticing the dishes were not cleaning well. Eventually, the machine just filled up with water and drained. The washing arms didn't work. I replaced fill valve, but that didn't solve it. A GE Tech ran a diagnostic and informed us the pump motor was bad. It was off warranty and repairs would be $300. However, he noted it was easy to do on my own. Two pipe clamps. The part from PartsSelect was 40% less than ordering from GE and was a GE part. Replacement took half an hour and that includes getting it wrong once (one connection leaked due to a bad job attaching the pipe clamp). Works like a champ now.
