GDF510PMD1SA General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

-Disabled power.
-1/4” nut driver to take off kickplate.
-Unplug wires harness to door
-Dismount dishwasher from cabinets and pull out 4-6 inches
-uncouple spring pulley from door hinges.
-Open dishwasher door about 4 inches and pull out and up to remove
-Lay door down and remove 4 -T20 star bolts and two 1/4” bolts from door hinges(the door hinge has four bolts, but only remove one from each hinge that connects to the inner plastic door)
-remove vent cap and push up on interior plastic door casing to separate outer and inner door.
-Unbolt the soap dispenser module via 1/4” bolts and replace with new module. (be sure to line up module and gasket properly, installing 1/4inch bolts crossways, slowly tightening each bolt for a perfect seal).
-Reassemble the inner/outer doors and reattach to dishwasher in reverse order.
Be sure to plug the doors electric harness and kickplate.
-Plug the dishwasher back in and run it through a test.

I recently replaced the user interface, which took about 30 minutes. A week later replaced the soap dispenser module, which took 20 minutes. Disassembling the door was easier the second round.

I would read this project very easy for somebody with technical skills and easy with no prior skills

Removed two latch screws and one electrical connection, Removed
two screws that hold D/W to countertop, pulled D/W out enough to remove the old latch, install new latch, push D/W back into place, rescrew to counter top and rescrew the two latch screws. This problem happened since new, had repairmen twice and they did nothing but move the dishwasher stating it needed alignment, never mentioned this easy repair....

Simply unscrewed the old damaged arm and screwed the new one on, took less than a minute

A quick twist of the locking nut

Looked up the replacement part on YouTube, watched a video and followed the instructions. Part ordered was the correct part and the video showed how to access for replacing. Watched a different video for hooking up the disconnected springs that allow the door to lower and close smoothly. Whole process for repairs was less than 30 minutes.

Very straight forward. After removing the power source the dishwasher was pulled forward enough to access the the door hinge springs. Then the door could be removed and the inner skin separated to access the the dispenser mounting screws.

Replaced latch

Followed video instructions step by step.
I was fortunate i had enough slack in water, electric and discharge lines to avoid disconnecting.

Two wrinkles
1. wire clips on my door had to be pulled/pried loose from door and there were two not one

2. could not slide dishwasher out after lowering adjusters and figured out it was the mounting tabs bumpimng the granite countertop, thus the use of putty knives to slide the dishwasher out.

Removed the top two screws that hold the dishwasher to the cabinet , remove the two screws on the bottom panel and remove the panel. Screw the levelers all of the way up and pull out the dishwasher about 6 to 8 inch. Hook the new cabe on the spring and pull around pulley and attach it to the door bracket. I replaced both cables. Reverse to complete.

the hardest part was removing the door from the face of the washer. Getting the door off required accessing the sides, so I had to lower the feet so it would slide out of the recess it sits in.
Disconnecting the springs for the door was straight forward and simple. once those were disconnected, it lifted off the hinges easily. The seals themselves were simply press-fit into the recesses. the old ones pulled loose cleanly and easily.. the new ones pressed into place very simply and without any real effort.
Getting the door back on was a little problematic, mostly in getting the hinge pins to line up properly.. but once it settled in, it line up itself, and the springs were easily replaced. I re-leveled the dishwasher, and then ran it for a full cycle to ensure it wouldn't leak anymore.

Followed troubleshooting procedure to determine that defective Flood Switch caused the problem and not the Heating Element. Replaced only the Flood Switch. I also replaced a deteriorated door gasket.

De-installed dishwasher from cabinet, removed door, and tipped unit over with back of tub resting on floor.

I followed the document referenced here for the troubleshooting and repair procedures: GE Appliances Technical Service Guide, 2012 GE Dishwasher, 31-9226.pdf available on web.

The Mid Spray Arm Assembly was not spinning due to a dish that was in placed the dishwasher that was too high and hitting the arm. When it spun until it broke the center shaft. Replacement was easy. After removing power I pulled the upper tray out and removed the Conduit Mid Tiered Assembly by unsnapping it from the tray. I twisted off the broken spindle of the damaged arm assembly from the Conduit Mid Tiered Assembly and inserted the new arm and gently pushed it until it snapped into the Mid Tiered Assembly. Reinstalled the assembled parts by snapping into the tray making sure it was centered.

The old gasket pulled right out with no tools needed,
The new gasket went in the same way.

Results:
It did help on one side, but the bottom gasket also needs to be replaced it has a couple of tears one on each end.

Next Steps:
When the bottom gasket gets here I will replace that and it should be as good as new.

Simply pulled the new one out of the box and put it into the dishwasher.

In did the drain screen, undid two nuts on top, removed panel, undid plastic ring, undid two screws with but driver, pulled sensor up, dried up any water at bottom, installed new sensor and follow steps in reverse. It worked!!!