GCG21IESAFWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

shut off water supply to unit, pull the unit out,unplug, unscrew lower back cover, locate valve relay unit (bottom left, black and clear hose coming out of it) undo the quick connect for the clear water hose on the right (black one is for ice).

front of the unit, bottom left, locate the other hose (longer one) running to the freezer door from under the unit, undo quick connect.

Inside unit, remove middle drawers, careful with the glass panels as these just lay on top and are not fixed.

undo the 3 screws for the old tank, pull it out, snake the hoses thru the grommet on the bottom, reverse process...all set!

Just pop the old one out, careful not to lose the wiring inside the ref wall & popped the new one in.

Part arrived very fast as ordered..need to pry old switch out from top..use care to push the retainer down..after old switch was 1/2 out, I used a putty knife for better leveridge.Remove wire connector...after plugging in the wire connector to the replacement switch, make sure the switch is properly positioned so the switch will depress when door shuts.

Replaced flapper

look very carefully at the picture you provided in the parts fish, removed the ice maker tray and the rest was very easy ,i saved alot of money and time doing it myself.

My GE refrigerator emitted high pitch noise a short while ago. I tried different dampening methods that helped but not eliminating the problem. I finally replaced the fan, motor, and associated parts and solved the problem. The total cost was about $50.

i used the video it showed on the site or iwould not have been able to do it

Thanks to others who also gave some detailed instruction on repairs I was able to do the same. I have a GE Profile side by side refrigerator/freezer Model No. PSC25PSSCSS The first repair I did was to remove/replace freezer defrost thermostat sensor that is cliped to condenser tube I snipped the wires close to the thermostat and pulled it off the tube I stripped the ends of the wires and twisted the strands then placed a piece of heat shrink tube onto the wire pushing it away from the exposed wire then I soldered the two color coded wires together then I pulled the heat shrink over the conection and used a lighter to heat up the heat shrink until it sealed the conection repeating this on the othr wire as well. I then removed the Old defrost Heater element by removing to screws then I disconected the two wires by simply pulling the connector plugs off both ends of the heater element assembly. This fixed the freezer being too warm for a short time but it started getting warm again that's when I noticed the defrost fan was not working, when you have the door open to freezer push the door switch in you should hear the fan come to life and blow hard. The fan was replaced I had to remove everything to get to it it's pretty simple to do it just unplugs make sure you order the right fan though My fan comes with the Thermistor already integrated into the plug this makes it easier. This fixed the problem with both Freezer & Refrigerator The Temperatures returned to normal Freezer 0 degrees Refrigerator 37 degrees I also checked out the refrigerator side Condenser I noticed only that the Condensate pan was starting to rust so I will remove it and use some Muretic acid to clean it up and then spray it with some Cold Gavanize with Zinc you can get this spray paint at Home Depot it seals and prevents rust. Or you can order a new one for about $ 16 bucks but it will start rusting just like the old one did eventually if you do order a new Condensate Pan I suggest spraying it before you reinstall it so that it will not rust. Greg H. Eldorado, AR

Remove lower front panel, disconnect damaged union from water hose under freezer door, replace with new union, tighten and reattach front panel. No more water coming from under the unit. Ice maker and dispenser features returned to working order!

After retuning the wrong part and then recieving the correct part it was fairly simple to change the auger. The only thing to be carefull about is keeping all the ice crusher parts together in propper order. also the nut on the front after removing clip has left hand threads.

Removed the ice tray and then the auger unit from the tray assembly. To accomplish auger removal, the auger assembly is attached to the tray assemble at the front. On the front bottom there two screws. Back them out. Then on the top of the tray assembly the auger assembly is held in position by two tabs. Depress them with a finger or thumb. Do not use a screw driver as this may result in breaking the plastic tab! The auger assembly will separate. The crusher plate easily separates from the auger assembly and is removed buy "spiraling" the plate up and off the auger itself. Simply reverse to install new plate.
Recommendation: Take this opportunity to thoroughly clean and COMPLETELY DRY all components prior to re-assemble and re-install into the refrigerator.

Bought two gaskets for both doors was just going to replace both due to age. Food door gasket was received damaged shipped poorly and I am still waiting on a refund. But went ahead with the repair , since freezer door was the one I was concerned about. Opened Freezer door gasket package and it was dirty and looked old from sitting in warehouse. I had to but it in the tub to make it pliable and I cleaned it also since it was in water already. Installed it pretty simple . Turned out the refrigerator wasn't leveled properly. Didn't realize the refrigerator is suppose to slope to the back . Called up GE and they helped me out. Customer Service from partselect.com and GE were very nice.

I replaced the three sensors, 2 in the freezer 1 in the refrigerator. This was rated as the most common problem. Did not fix the problem. I then checked the ohms on the new sensors then the old sensors they were all within .5 of each other. So I got smart and went down the list of causes on their list. I emailed partselect and asked what the parts should read. They replied with that information and it turned out to be the voltage converter on the compressor. I ordered the part on friday payed for overnight delivery and it arrived tuesday. This as you can imagine makes me angry. But the part was easy to install and my refrigerator started working right away. I would advise anyone with this problem to start at the top of the problem list use a multi meter check everything on the list and only replace part or parts that don't come up to standards. This will save time and money and hopefully fix the problem the first time as you are not switching out parts and hoping that it solves the problem.

Troubleshot the tempeture sensors and the resistance was alot lower than the specs called for had to replace the evap fan being 1 of the sensors is connected to the evap fan . Start by removing all the food from the.freezer and bottom section of the fridge . Remove all the shelves and bins in freezer and shelf and drawers.on the lower section of the fridge .remove the ice bin , and the ice.machine remove the light shroud, and.bulbs, push tabs on the light sockets and pull the sockets from the housing.. and then push the sockets through the holes of housing remove all the screws from the rear wall from top to bottom upon removal of the section just under the ice.machine and behind the light socket you.will find the evap fan and it's bracket remove the 2 screws and pull straight up on the fan blade be carefully to not break its best to pull from the center of fan blade .remove the clip and thermistor that's connected to top of the evap coil. While your there remove the defrost thermostat to do this the clamp that holds it to the coil is a split clamp and you gently push on the clamp upper section and pull the lower section and it will seperate enough for you to remove the thermostat the other thermistors are in the fridge section 2 are on the divider wall behind the plastic oval plastic.housings one just above the the middle.of fridge the other is.lower section. And finally 1 more is at the very bottom of fridge last drawer on right hand side to.remove this you need to remove the light cover. Remove the plastic half round plastic deflector and the foam behind it remove the water reservoir screws and open the freezer at the bottom center wall at the back is a round plastic damper cover with a Phillip screw remove that ,on fridge side remove the 4 screws that hold the lower damper housing to the bottom of fridge gently and slowly work your way around the center seam and aeperate the upper cover of damper housing and expose the thermistor and replace. Note on all the thermistors just cut off enough to splice in replacement I personally used water tight heat shrink soldered type butts work great

REPLACING THE DEFROST HEATER & BRA:
1- Empty freezer.
2- Remove all shelves.
3- Remove white painted metal wall plate opposite
the freezer door. There are 2 phillips head screws
attaching it.
4- There may be ice build-up on the freezer coils,
thaw the ice using a hair dryer.
5- Remove the 2 phillips screws holding the
defrost heater to the freezer coil frame, at the
bottom of the frame.
6- Install the defrost heater to the frame.
7- Replace metal panel.

REPLACING THE DEFROST THERMOSTAT.

1-Perform steps 1-4 above.
2-Locate the thermostat at the top of the freezer
coil in the freezer.
3-Cut the wires connecting the thermostat.
4-Connect the new thermostat to the wires that
were connecting the old thermostat, connecting
the wire color to the same color wire.

Note: Connect the wires by using wire splices
available at radio shack. Use splices
sized for 20 guage wire, and wrap with
electrical tape to protect from moisture.

5- Replace metal panel.