GC2225PEKB Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed the cover using a mirror to see how to release the clips on the rear side of the cover, removed the circuit board noting how everything was installed and also visually verified the part was the same. Broke the circuit at the designated score, installed and followed instructions for programming. All is well now.

The plastic fill cup part is also used to hold one end of the wire “one/off” switch that is manually activated or activated when the ice tray is full. This wire piece fell out because one end, that is part of the plastic fill cup, broke off. The wire switch was fine.

The video demos show you exactly what to do. The repair man showed me a trick to speed up the testing process. The trick is to insert a wire jumper cable to actuate the ice maker and make it rotate. But this isn’t necessary.

Hardest part of this fix is emptying the freezer (bottom with a slide out door) and removing the door.

Why this part is so expensive is beyond me. But I’m happy it was available for a 24yo fridge that still works!!

Emptied and disassembled the freezer. Defrosted and dried the coils. Tested the defrost heater coil ( 50 ohms ) PRT and fan - all OK. Opened the lower back panel and cleaned the water collection tray. Vacuumed out all debris including coils underneath. Reassembled everything. Removed the old control board and installed the new board paying attention to ESD steps. Applied AC power. Programmed the new board per the video link ( nicely done ). 3 weeks later and the unit seems dry and happy. Running at lower settings with good temperature results. Suspect the 24VDC relay activating the defrost heater coil on the control board or what controls the relay not working. May pull relay for test.

I checked the element and the thermostat and determined the problem to be the control board. I simply followed the instruction in the video. Everything went well until the last step, the video said to push the freezer down button. When this did not work I refered to the written instructions which told me to push the up button. That did it. Job complete. The unit is working as it should.

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.

Followed the video exactly as shown from the website. I do suggest using a mirror or your phone to visualize the notch to press to drop the cover.

Had to push the light switch to get lamp to light up.
Removed power from refrig. and removed old light switch
and replaced with the one I got from Partselect. Turned power back on and was done.

There was three screws to remove to unmout the ice maker, and unplug the wire harness,then two to remove to slip in new stripper. All took about 20 mins.

Pried out the old switch and installed the new switch.

Remove all door. Snap in new door. No tools required.

Ordered from P S and very fast service customer service was great. I would recomend P S to anyone that needs parts.

Repair was tremendously easy. All I did was remove old light switch by prying out with screw driver and plugging in the new light switch and pushing it into the hole. Simple! The instructions weren't needed, but they were very thorough.

I popped out the old switch with a screwdriver pressing down the tab on the bottom and unplugged the terminals. Then I plugged in the new switch and popped back into the socket. Piece of cake!

The fridge door was easy. Just unscrew top and lift off hindge. The freezer door took longer. But I had the user guide which helped. We unhooked the power harness at the top of the door, and disconnected the water line at the bottom of the door.

Frankly, it wasn't that hard for me because I had my son-in-law do it!

First, remove the plastic cover off the top hinge by removing the single phillips head screw.

Removed the three hex-head screws holding the hinge to the body of the fridge and then lift the hinge off of the door.

Lift the door off the bottom hinge and place on a flat surface so you can easily access the bottom.

Remove the single hex-head screw from the center of the door part of the closure cam and pull it free. Install the new part.

Next, remove the bottom portion of the closure cam from the lower door hinge (still attached to the fridge) by removing the single hex-head screw. Install the new part.

If needed, lube the lower door hinge with Vaseline and carefully set the door back on. (This is the hard part if you are working alone, as it can be hard to line up the hole.)

Lube the top hinge, reinstall, and replace the plastic cover. Easy as 1, 2, 3.