G32026PEKB Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

Unplugged fridge
Pulled light cover off
Used screwdrivers to press in on tabs holding control board cover.
Unplug wiring harnesses.
Snapped board in two.
Install in cover
Reattach wires
Done

We removed the old switch, unplugged it, plugged the new one in and it was easy to do. But when we tried to put the switch back in we had a very hard time doing it. Eventually got it in, but if it had not been for the difficulty we had getting the new switch to snap in to place, it would have taken under 5 minutes.

I removed the Deli Drawersvegatable and fruit drawers. Removed the glass panel. Removed the screws holding the Endcap and snapped the old one out. A back panel strip that controls the humidity snapped out. I installed the back panel to the new endcap. Installed the new endcap snapping it in place and used the screws to keep it in place.
It was not difficult and everything fit perfectly. The only thing it takes is a little understanding as to how it all fits together. It took about 20 minutes.

The video on the part select website with the Canadian gentleman was absolutely the best! My wife and I watched it and was able to accomplish the replacement with no surprises or issues. One tip that we could add is that the orientation of the temperature sensor was not specified in the video, but the slot seemed to work better for one orientation versus another. It has been a couple weeks since the repair and the refrigerator is working like it did when we first purchased it.

after pulling the draw out. had to remove 3 screws on the left side, pull out one part, and then replaced the broken pin. put everything back in place and it was done.perfect job.saved alot of money. thanks to part-select

Thanks to others who shared their story, I was prepared to "muscle" the front cover off the old crisper and snap it into place on the new crisper -- warning if you are good with puzzles and mechanics, this repair is a "snap"; Pantry Lid is very easy, push pin on left side, slide old lid out and push new lid in.

Easy repair, nothing complicated.

easy peasy

Remove light lens by pushing straight back (needs some oomph, but not too much). Remove control housing by prying spring clips in back of housing with thin screwdriver or knife. Remove old control board by releasing plastic clips on both sections and removing 2 wiring plugs. Be careful snapping new control board in ; the alignment of the 4 switches and the 2 readouts is critical - easy to hang up a switch. Snap the control housing back into place, making sure that it is all the way in. Position the light lens so that it is lined up and about 1/2" back and then slide it forward (toward you) into place. The instruction sheet calls the refrigerator section the "fresh food" section. There are 2 light switches, one for each door. Both have to held down to get light to go out and enter programming mode. Easiest to close the right door, then push left door switch and quickly push the freezer DOWN button 3 times. Follow the instructions to set the program on the display and then push AND HOLD the freezer DOWN button until the display starts flashing. Release the freezer DOWN button, close the doors, open the doors to check. Display will indicate two 4s. (that was what mine indicated). Done.

Watched video on line.

Two phillips head screws out to remove drawer slide. Three screws to remove right side drawer support. New support placed, new lid snapped into place. The right side has an adjustment lever. Re-routing that took the longest. The arm had to be removed and twisted to get the adjustment knob off and on.

Removed the lid and pantry drawer. Removed crisper drawer on right side and glass shelve. Removed 2 screws on glide. Removed 2 nuts with nut driver. Gently tugged on the pantry end cap and it released from the back wall. Had to rotate about 90 degrees to remove the extension off the back wall so I could remove the thermostat control arm from old piece and put it onto the new piece. Gently removed the thermostat control through a series of squeezing pieces and rotations. Do not force anything. Take your time as you are working with plastic that could break at any moment with force. Replace in reverse order.

Removed two 1/4" screws from the end cap with the nut driver and removed it. Transferred a few pieces from the old end cap to the new. Reinstalled the new end cap and presto, job complete.

I removed the drawers above and the glass shelf, then removedthe screws to remove the broken end cap then reversed the proceedure to install the new part. Was simple to do and it works fine.

The fridge would occasionally run warm, requiring me to turn it off and defrost the evap coils in the freezer. I found an online video that demonstrated the entire process of replacing the control board. The fridge model in the video was different than mine, so it took some time to figure out how to remove the panel. Once that was done, the rest was easy. The only tool required was a flat-head screwdriver that was used to push in the tabs holding the panel in place. The circuit board took more effort to split in two than I had realized, and I had to be careful not to bend any of the components on its surface. The whole process took less than 30 minutes, and the fridge is working properly now..