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FWS235RFS4 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the FWS235RFS4
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Leaking hoses
I made my job difficult by removing the back panel, then the side, and finally discovered the front panel opens giving access to the washer. Using heavy pliers I removed the spring clamps and replaced the pump to washer hose and the other hose end to the tub. Turned on the washer no leak only to discover the drain hose had developed a leak. So I ordered the second hose. I was not sure how to release the plastic retaining clamps. Finally just yanked them loose, which worked. Ran the hose through the machine out the back into the drain pipe. I was able to reattach the retaining clamps put the spring clamp on the pump end of the hose. The difficult part was getting the back, sides and front of the washing machine together that took hours.
Parts Used:
Pump to Tub Hose - Black
  • Dixie from STRANG, OK
  • Difficulty Level:
    Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Agitation weak
Got the washer used. Agitation was okay, but the screw part of the agitator was very weak and kept slipping, so bought a replacement agitator. This DID NOT fix the problem, it remained the same. Watched a video on this site about the part under the agitator, whereupon we saw there was supposed to be a washer on top of the spike-thing where you screw the agitator down. THAT was the problem. That washer was missing, and when we replaced it, the agitation was fixed! Very much appreciate this site.
Parts Used:
Dual Action Agitator
  • Linda from WEST POINT, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
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Leaking through the main tub seal
-Remove front panel - 2 screws
-Remove the top panel - 2 screws
-Disconnect the lid switch from the top panel - 2 screws
-Remove the agitator cap - unscrew
-Remove the agitator - This was a bit difficult and required a lot of jiggling but it eventually came off
-Remove the inner drum - 5 bolts at the bottom
-Remove the drum mount - 2 bolts and then it got really difficult. A lot of penetrating blaster, wire brushing, jiggling, and some strategically placed hammer taps (don't damage the threads.
-Remove the seal
-Clean up the inner and outer seal seating surfaces
-Rinse and repeat in reverse (pun intended)
Parts Used:
Tub Seal Assembly
  • Rob from DACULA, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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Drive Belt Was Noisy-Slipping
I just popped up the top front using a large straight (slotted) screw driver, then removed the 2 screws at the bottom front, then the whole front panel popped down about a half inch to be lifted out of the way. I found the old drive belt way down under the motor (still attached as normal), very near the floor and removed the worn out belt by hand, and replaced it with the new belt by hand also. The spring loaded belt tightener- idler wheel makes this a very simple process to accomplish. Then, I replaced the front panel-- all done. Works like new.
Parts Used:
Drive V-Belt
  • Steve from Carrollton, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Broken belt
Pry up top from front remove 2 phillip screws at lower front panel slip belt under tub pulley then around motor pulley push belt tensioner towards back of machine slide belt onto tensioner pulley. (Done)
Parts Used:
Drive V-Belt
  • Sharon from TEMPLE, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Smell of rubber under dryer. Inspection proved belt cracked and shinny worn spot.
Installation was easy, however watch repair instructions video for your model number to easily remove front access panel.
Parts Used:
Drive V-Belt
  • Fred from WOLVERINE, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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transmission wore out
After struggeling the most with lifting out the inner drum and then the wash drum. I realized when the job was complete a better way. 1. Take the top off the washer. 2. take the front off the washer. Then disconnect all wires and hoses from assembly One small hose on the tub and the pump hose at the bottom. 3. at the bottom of the overall assembly there are 3 braces holding the tub assembly with 2 springs on each brace. Go under and remove the springs and then lift the whole assembly out into the middle of the floor. 4. remove the top cap off of the agitator. 5. remove the agitator. 6. if you are lucky and the bolts are not seized in the block that holds the shaft remove the small steel block from the bell and remove the bell. 6. Slide the inner tub up and off the shaft and again if all goes well the outer wash tub should slip up off the shaft as well. 7. remove the drive belt from the motor and transmission.
Parts Used:
Agitator Drive Block
  • Tim from Flemington, WV
  • Difficulty Level:
    Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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Replace Drain Hose
Ordered this part to replace a drain hose that had been cut short on the washer. Installation was straight-forward. Removed the two front screws to access the cabinet. Locate the drain hose and remove with a pair of pliers. Install the new part and attach the clamp with the pliers just like removal. Took about 15 minutes.
Parts Used:
Drain Hose
  • Patrick from BIRMINGHAM, AL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers
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Leveling leg sheared off
Put machine on dolly. Tilted it on its back. Put screw driver into sheared leg and unscrewed broken leveling leg. Then screwed new leg in and tilted machine back up.
Parts Used:
Screw-In Plastic Leveling Leg
  • Joseph W from WEST PALM BCH, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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drive belt old and stretched
unplugged machine. pried up with large regular screwdiver on top washer lid. removed two phillips screws bottom of front panel, had to use rubber mallet to drive front panel down to remove as was rusty and old. removed old belt using screwdriver. put new belt under tub pulley and put belt on small pulleys. kept moving tub and springs by pushing on tub. Took several tries to get new belt to go on the large tub pulley but finally did it. I used the instructions you gave for replacing broken drive belt and it worked. replaced front panel and two phillips screws, put top back on and away it went.
Parts Used:
Drive V-Belt
  • George from Sault Ste. Marie, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Water temperature knob broke
I push the new knob onto the post that fit the knob
Parts Used:
Control Knob
  • Michael from Weston, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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wash water would not drain from tub
Loosened top of washer from spring tabs and leaned it against wall, removed two phillip head screws from the front bottom panel, removed panel. Removed spring clamps from 2 hoses( make sure water is drained from tub before doing this!!) on pump, removed 2 wire connectors. Used nutdriver to remove 2 screws that held down pump. Replaced pump and everything else installs in reverse. Almost forgot, the plate that holds the pump to the bottom of the washing machine has to be removed from the old pump and attached to the new one.
Parts Used:
Remote Style Pump with Motor
  • Larry from Seminole, OK
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Bottom "Screw", which is the front leg of the washer was broken.
Tilted the clothes washer back to provide easy access. Then after scrubbing the floor - which took most of the time of the repair, screwed out the broken leg and screwed in the new leg or SCREW. Easy peasey.
Parts Used:
Screw-In Plastic Leveling Leg Levelling Leg Pad
  • Linda Lahann from Freehold, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
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orginal pump was starting to make excessive noise.checked out to find a lot of side play in the pump shaft.
ordered the new pump,its a lot more heavy duty than the orginal.had to change the mounting bracket somewhat. the new pump mounted bythe bottom of the pump housing and theold pump mounted by the side of the pump housing. so, wnere the curve was in the mount, I used the bench grinder to cut the curve out to make a flat surface for the new pump to rest in ,also drilled two 1/4 inch holes in the mount for the bolts to mount the pump.
Parts Used:
Remote Style Pump with Motor
  • Richard from kidder, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Rusted frozen washer drain pump
Disconnected power, removed hoses, removed housing and pump. Re oriented drain pipes on pump to align with washer hoses (just twist collar and re set) attach foot bracket and secure to washer bottom. Attaching the hoses with the compression clamps was a bit of a problem until I used pliers to press the ends together and then an adjustable wrench to hold them tight. Slid on hoses and released clamps. Replaced electrical and secured pump cover. Done in about 15 minutes.
Parts Used:
Remote Style Pump with Motor
  • Calvin from Nashville, TN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
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All Instructions for the FWS235RFS4
61 - 75 of 165