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the oven would not light
unscrewed the bracket holding the igniter in place then we pulled the drawer on the bottom out and disconnected the Igniter - then we took the unit out of the bracket replaced it and then put the bracket back into place screwed it in and reconnected the igniter and now it burns hotter then it has since we moved into the house two years ago. I was worried that it would be a hard long job but was pleasantly surprised when it only took a few minutes.
First I turned off the gas supply to the oven and disconnected it. I then pull the oven out away from the wall. I then unplugged the power cord. I removed the oven door by lifting it off of it spring hinges. I then removed a lower plate that covers the burner element by pressing in a manner that it popped off. I then located the ignitor and removed 3 screws. All were easily removed. Carefully, I pulled the igniter out and removed the wires from the wires that supplied the current to the ignitor. Installation followed by working the steps above in reverse order.
I researched the needed part (igniter)and purchased it on line. It arrived promoptly. I called a repair person who arrived and installed the new part. All is well.
Removed old igniter held by one bolt & nut, diconected two leads to igniter. Gas mainifold remained in place during repair. Replaced with new igniter, using old mounting bracket and wire ties. Total repair time 30min, oven repair service wanted to charge $80 just for diagnosis. Total cost of repair doing it myself was $50.
Took off oven door, took out racks and bottom plate, removed burner assembly disconnected wires, removed old ignitor put new one in holder, connected wires, put burner assembly back, checked if it worked and replaced racks ect..No tools needed.
The first igniter was received broken. A replacement was received within 5 days. It was very easy to install once the protective cover was placed over the igniter end. In my opinion, this part should be sold with the protective cover already in place.
Turned off gas supply and power. Removed four wires by hand and with a needle-nose pliers after making simple schematic. Disconnected gas supply to valve and valve outlets to broiler and oven. Also loosened other end of gas supply (on regulator) to swing it out of the way. Tools used....open end wrenches. Removed two nuts on left side of valve holding valve to bracket. Tools used...1/4" socket set. Since the nuts holding the right hand bracket were difficuly to reach, I removed the bracket, allowing the valve to be removed. Tools used....1/4" socket set. I then removed the right hand bracked and mounted it on the new valve. I then installed the new valve in the reverse order. I then opened the gas supply and tested the inlet connection(s) for leakage with soapy water. Perfect seal. I turned on the power, set the clock, and tested the oven and broiler. Worked perfectly. The only thing that prevented this from being a really easy job was the location of the valve....in cramped location.
Replaced the igniter. Took out the 20 screws holding the bottom plate of the oven. Removed the igniter and gas tube mounting screws and bracket. Took off the wire nuts that attached igniter to stove wiring. Carefully installed new ignitor, using reverse of the steps above. Igniter tip is very fragile, so beware as you handle. All went very well, and oven now works like a charm
Removed the oven doors for access; removed the burner onto which the ignitor is attached, disconnected the electrical wires (power off). Reversed the procedure to put it back together. We are now cooking with gas again. Thanks. Fletcher
Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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Lower Bake Ignitor would glow, but would not ignite flame.
First, my wife and I pulled out the oven from wall to disconnect electric plug and, also with a wrench; I shut off the gas connection on the wall. I then removed front door of the oven by pulling up on door to have easy access to lower part of oven, and then removed pan to get to Igniter. Removed the three screws on cage that supported the Igniter and, I also had to remove several screws to the manifold and bottom pan that supports the manifold so that I could disconnect Igniter. I then was able to pull out old Igniter and, reconnect the new one. After that, I reinstalled everything in reverse. Before pushing oven back into wall; we made sure the new igniter worked. It worked just great. My wife and I were so happy and proud that we done it our self, and not have to call someone to do it for us. It took me and, my wife about an hour and a half to complete the job. I believe the reason it took us as long as it did was because we really didn't know what to expect. Now that we know; I am sure that we could do it again in 30 to 45 minutes. Dave & Marsha; 8/23/2013
My 1st thought was that the valve was bad but after watching a whirlpool video on how to trouble shoot I put an amp probe on the wire to the igniter and discovered that the amp draw was not getting high enough to open the valve. The vale calls for 3 amps but the amps on the igniter only got up to 2.4 amps even though the igniter was glowing red hot. I ordered the new igniter from PartSelect and it was here in less then 2 days. It was a perfect fit and took about 30 mins. to install and it works perfectly. I also ordered a motor and a blower wheel for a Whirlpool Electric Dryer, Model #LEC8858EQO, and it arrived in less than a day and again both items were an exact fit and the dryer now works perfectly. Great service and fast response by PartSelect. I will defiantly use PartSelect again.