FFLE2022MW2 Frigidaire Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
The dryer was over-heating, the vents had been cleaned to it wasn't the vent, but something wrong with the dryer. The Thermal Limiter was a cheap try to see if it would fix the problem.
The hardest part was getting to the part and removing it and putting it back on. The schematics that you had on your website helped us locate where it needed to go and, hopefully, that will solve our problem.
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William from Pardeeville, WI
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Wrench set
7 of 12 people
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Drum guides came out into dryer
Removed old guides ( some of the snap in fastners were broken off). REplaced guides by rolling drum, easy to snap in @ drum bottom each time.
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lloyd from celina, OH
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
5 of 6 people
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Zipper was cought between brum and cabnet
Disconect power, Removed top and front of dryer.
The broken zipper was easly removed at this point. The plastic glides easly snap out and in. The felt took some more time to scrape off and clean the old glue. Glue the new felt into place and replace front and top. The parts were shiped promptly and the dryer was out of service for only three days.
The broken zipper was easly removed at this point. The plastic glides easly snap out and in. The felt took some more time to scrape off and clean the old glue. Glue the new felt into place and replace front and top. The parts were shiped promptly and the dryer was out of service for only three days.
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John from Swansboro, NC
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
5 of 6 people
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dryer door wouldnt close
the catch on the door was worn and cracked.... so I noticed it could be easily popped out with a screw driver and when the new part came in the mail 2 days later, it was just as easy to pop back in with no tools required. Now the door stays shut really good!!!
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karen from aurora, IL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
5 of 6 people
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Leaking hoses
I made my job difficult by removing the back panel, then the side, and finally discovered the front panel opens giving access to the washer. Using heavy pliers I removed the spring clamps and replaced the pump to washer hose and the other hose end to the tub. Turned on the washer no leak only to discover the drain hose had developed a leak. So I ordered the second hose. I was not sure how to release the plastic retaining clamps. Finally just yanked them loose, which worked. Ran the hose through the machine out the back into the drain pipe. I was able to reattach the retaining clamps put the spring clamp on the pump end of the hose. The difficult part was getting the back, sides and front of the washing machine together that took hours.
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Dixie from STRANG, OK
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Difficulty Level:Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
5 of 6 people
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squeaking in dyer progressively got unbearable
removed top and front panel on stackable dyer unit. 3 screws at back of the inside of the drum, and the drum was out. installed new bearing and belt and all was good.
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matt from south vienna, OH
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
6 of 9 people
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dryer stopped in middle of cycle and would not restart
followed the repair video and replaced thermal fuse and thermostat(recommend replacing both due to the problem could of resulted in either part being the cause),Repair went relatively easy.I also recommend to clean and vacuum the dryer while you have it all apart due to a lot of lint buildup and don't forget to unplug before servicing!Stay Safe!!!
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MICHAEL from HUDSON, NY
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
5 of 7 people
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Squealing
Customer responses / directions were great nothing to add - except no where does anyone mention "high temperature grease" for the Drum Support Bearing - only on the video is it mentioned numerous times. I honestly think it took longer to vacuum out all the lint then it did to do the repairs.
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Diane from MADISON, CT
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
4 of 4 people
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female part of door clasp broke
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Tammy from St. Peters, MO
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
5 of 7 people
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Cloths not drying
Removed the back panel and the exhaust hose.removed the heater element and changed the thermostat wire was melted cut damaged part of wire soldered and rapped with black electrical tap
Parts Used:
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keith from ELLENVILLE, NY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
5 of 8 people
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The water did not drain at all . You could hear the pump spinning , but it was not .
After making sure there was no blockages and the pump was not jammed I knew it was time for a new one . Unplug the machine and turn off the hot and cold water . Remove the two screws on the bottom of the front of the machine and push down on the panel it should come right off . Make sure all the water is drained out of the tub use a wet/dry vacuum to suck out all the water if needed . Then with the vacuum empty squeeze the clamps that hold the hoses on the pump and push them out of the way . Use the vacuum to suck up any leftover water, as you remove both hoses . Unplug the one set of wires going to the pump . Remove both screws and the pump should now be loose . Do the same thing in reverse to install the new pump . Other than dealing with the water it should take under 15 minutes . Good Luck
Parts Used:
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Lawrence from STATEN ISLAND, NY
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
3 of 3 people
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Washer did not drain, would not cycle; pump was 'humming' and not moving water
Remove front lower access panel: two phillips screws at the lower edge then the panel slid down and off. Removed 5/16 pump mounting screws then slid a shallow pan under pump to attempt to catch stale water, removed left side (inlet) hose clamp and wiggled hose off to drain water with some success, some spillage. Removed outlet hose, turned the pump around to remove electrical connection. Reversed steps to mount new pump and after fighting with spring clamp on outlet side I chose to replace that spring clamp with a 1 1/2" stainless hose clamp which then could be tightened with a screwdriver and only took a minute to wrap up.
Parts Used:
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DANIEL from PINCKNEY, MI
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
3 of 3 people
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Pump motor made humming noise and wouldn't drain water from tub.
Disconnect power. Disconnect water hoses. Remove back panel. Remove top panel. Disconnect bladder ring. Disconnect control panel wire harness and control panel. Remove front panel. Disconnect hose clamps to drain hose and tub drain hose. Disconnect pump motor power supply wire. Disconnect pump screws. Now do everything in reverse replacing old pump with new.. One special note: replace factory hose clamps with new hose clamps.
Parts Used:
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Matthew from Oakford, IL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
3 of 3 people
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Squeaky drum until drum would not turn.
Watched on-line video, then applied those steps.
1. Pop the front of the deck loose using putty knife to depress clips;
2. Disconnect wires from light and door switch;
(Before I disconnected wires from door switch and light, I made wiring sketches to make sure I reconnected in original manner.)
3. Remove lint filter mount screws and mount from bottom of door opening;
4. Cut drum belt with wire-cutters and removed it;
5. Remove drum support clip from top center of front panel;
6. Remove (1) screw from each side of dryer body that hold front to sidewalls, removed front panel;
7. Remove drum by lifting the rear out of the bearing, then moving it forward through the machine front;
[While I had the dryer disassembled, I thoroughly cleaned it of lint, dirt & metal filings. The metal filings were from the worn ball hitch and drum support bearing cup. I spent as much time cleaning it out as I did working on it.]
8. Stand drum on gallon paint bucket while removing ball hitch (Use a #2 drywall phillips apex to obtain sufficient seating & torque to remove and reinstall ball hitch screws at rear of drum.);
9. Have a second person hold the new ball hitch in position while starting screws, if necessary;
10. Use nut driver w/5/16" socket to remove bearing retainer & ground ball clip;
11. Install new bearing into retainer clip, insert attachment screws through the holes in both, stick grounding ball in depression on back of bearing as screws are fed through back panel;
12. Hold ground ball clip in place to start one screw, then the other & tighten with nut driver;
13. Start drum belt on motor shaft and position against tensioner pulley;
14. Feed drum through front of machine and loop belt over rear of drum;
15. Slide belt forward on drum as drum moves to rear to keep it aligned with position of tension pulley;
16. Lift rear of drum to place ball hitch on top of bearing, then press down to seat it into bearing;
17. Turn drum to ensure belt alignment, then re-accomplish steps 6 thru 1.
1. Pop the front of the deck loose using putty knife to depress clips;
2. Disconnect wires from light and door switch;
(Before I disconnected wires from door switch and light, I made wiring sketches to make sure I reconnected in original manner.)
3. Remove lint filter mount screws and mount from bottom of door opening;
4. Cut drum belt with wire-cutters and removed it;
5. Remove drum support clip from top center of front panel;
6. Remove (1) screw from each side of dryer body that hold front to sidewalls, removed front panel;
7. Remove drum by lifting the rear out of the bearing, then moving it forward through the machine front;
[While I had the dryer disassembled, I thoroughly cleaned it of lint, dirt & metal filings. The metal filings were from the worn ball hitch and drum support bearing cup. I spent as much time cleaning it out as I did working on it.]
8. Stand drum on gallon paint bucket while removing ball hitch (Use a #2 drywall phillips apex to obtain sufficient seating & torque to remove and reinstall ball hitch screws at rear of drum.);
9. Have a second person hold the new ball hitch in position while starting screws, if necessary;
10. Use nut driver w/5/16" socket to remove bearing retainer & ground ball clip;
11. Install new bearing into retainer clip, insert attachment screws through the holes in both, stick grounding ball in depression on back of bearing as screws are fed through back panel;
12. Hold ground ball clip in place to start one screw, then the other & tighten with nut driver;
13. Start drum belt on motor shaft and position against tensioner pulley;
14. Feed drum through front of machine and loop belt over rear of drum;
15. Slide belt forward on drum as drum moves to rear to keep it aligned with position of tension pulley;
16. Lift rear of drum to place ball hitch on top of bearing, then press down to seat it into bearing;
17. Turn drum to ensure belt alignment, then re-accomplish steps 6 thru 1.
Parts Used:
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Doug from ODESSA, TX
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
3 of 3 people
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Loud squealing when dryer was turning. At first it was just when it started and eventually it was constant.
Be carful when unpacking, the grounding bearing is in loose with the bolts. I had to chase it. Follow the video instructions for the stacked washer/dryer combo and you will not have a problem. Recommend you have two people working to lift the drum out and to install the new bearing.
Parts Used:
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Eric from GRANBURY, TX
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Socket set
3 of 3 people
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