FFHS2313LP5 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

-unplug power cord.(safety first!
-Removed evaporator cover in freezer. found defrost thermostat defective.
-use hair dryer to manually defrost coil from ice build-up.
-unclip thermostat from coil.
-cut wires close to the defrost thermostat; remove defective thermostat.
-clip on new defrost thermostat.
-connect wires using included butt connectors including shrink tubing (also included)
-replace coil cover.
-plug power cord back in.

Followed the steps in the video on your site, really easy to do.

Removed supports with pliers and used center punch to push broken plugs out of hole and inserted the new supports.

I removed the old gate by using a flat head screw driver to pry open mouth. I then removed 2 bolts that held on the cage that hols the ice crushing blades. Then I inserted the new gate and used a screw driver to pry the mouth open again (it was more difficult to insert than remove). I then popped in the new gate and re-assembled the cage. It worked on the first shot with no problems!

This is the 3rd time I have attemped and successfully repaired major home appliances myself after the warrenty ran out. I'm sure I could buy a new appliance for the money I saved.

Unplugged fridge from outlet. Removed rear panel on freezer side. Removed defrost thermostat from tube and cut wires. Installed new thermostat by matching color coded wires and crimping with supplied connectors and snap back on tube. Reinstalled panel and shelving.

I ordered the complete part and installed in about 10 minutes. The order went very fast, part was in stock and everything went very smooth. PartSelect.com was very easy to work with and they have a very satisfied customer. I will definitely use PartSelect.com again. Thanks for the great service

Went the typical route of part replacement since I don't own an ohm meter...pull and replace one part at a time. Started with the cheaper parts first, replaced the freezer fan for $40, same problem. Replaced the defrost heater element for $40, same problem. Replaced the thermostat $15 and controller board $150 at same time, bingo problem solved. Had to defrost with the hair dryer each time, biggest pain. Had an issue finding a Utube that showed the water filter system and thermistor removal for this model, otherwise straightforward, but not a 30 minute job.

I removed the back cover and removed the clip holding the compressor- run capacitor and start relay. I replaced these 2 components and clean the dust from the frig., and from the bottom of the floor. I replaced the back cover ; Loss about $300 worth of meat when when the frig. failed. Then I thought that, during these turbulent times, there are many which don't have a refrigerator or any meat to place in it, The refrigerator is "running" normal again.

removed ice maker box and disassembled crusher unit on front of box and installed new housing.

got replacement ice container with ice crusher and dispenser in the door. removed broken one and slid in the new one like a drawer and started crushing ice right away!!

Call before ordering and confirm it is the right part.

I removed the screws that held the the ice dispencer from the bin. I than removed three screws from the bottom of the bin. I put the new plastic piece on the end of the spiral piece that
pushes the ice. I inserted the spiral piece back into the hole. I than screwed the ice dispencer
to the bin and re-inserted it back in the refrigerator.
It took me about 5 to 10 minutes. It's really easy!

Well...The freezer door bin broke while over-stuffing it with frozen deer jerky. I called my local repair shop and they quoted me what was above retail for the piece...I checked online liked the prices and felt confident to buy from parts select. I bought on a Saturday and selected the slowest shipping (I think 5 days). I got a 'notice' it shipped on Monday and had it Tuesday when I got home from work. Excellent experience.

The parts supplied were made to fit. The hardest part was getting the original broken tabs out of the internal walls of the fridge with out damaging the internal insulation. I punched the center locking pin through completely, dug out the broken tabs and then reached into the hole with a dental pick and pulled out the center pin. The new parts fit perfectly and with a plastic mallet, tapped the new locking pin into place.

Pull refrigerator from wall and disconnect the water line and unplug the power.

On top of the icemaker, two machine screws hold the icemaker to the side of the refrigerator. You will have to feel around to find the machine screws, but once you do, it is simple to slip the appropriate size socket over the hex heads. I found it helpful to have an extension on the socket wrench. Disconnect the power cable inside the refrigerator (there are little pressure clips on the side that help release the cable) and move it out of the way for the time-being.

Back out both machine screws several turns, but do not remove them completely. The icemaker slips over the screws, so leaving them in the side of the refrigerator makes that process a lot easier. Hand tighten the machine screws once you have positioned the new icemaker in place. One thing to be sure and do is make sure the water line hose coming out of the back of the refrigerator inside is on top of the icemaker. It fits into a slot in the top of the icemaker - failing to do this will result in water pouring into the freezer compartment, not into the icemaker..

Reconnect the power cable to the new icemaker and tuck it up behind the icemaker assembly. Tighten the machine screws completely, but do not over-tighten.

Reconnect the water line on the back of the refrigerator at the wall, and plug in the refrigerator. You should hear the unit fill immediately.

In about an hour you should have ice filling the bin. Enjoy!