FES370VL1 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

The first thing I did was to turn the power off to the stove by turning the Stove circuit breaker off at the Main breaker panel. I next removed the 4 burners by pulling them out of their plug-in blocks. I then removed the four screws that held the top of the stove to the body so I could access the bad plug-in block, the screws were located under each of the burners drip pans. I next removed the screw holding the bad block. I lifted up the top of the stove so as to relocate the bad block, with wires connected, through the opening of the back burner. The bad block was located in the front rt part of the stove and by rerouting this to the back I could lay the top down and have easy access to what I needed to replace. I next used the knife to make a cut down the length of the old shrink tubing so as to gain access to the old splice. I next removed the old wire nuts which allowed the removal of the bad block. I then install the new clips into the new block. I installed one each shrink tubing onto each of the pigtails from the new clips and twisted the one new wire to the stove wiring harnes were the old wire was connected . I connected the seconded wire in the same manner. I pulled on each wire to verify that they were tightly secured together. I then positioned each shrink tubing over each wire nut (you have to fold the wire nut and wires down against the wire so as the shrink tubing will slip over the wire nut) and used a heating tool (hair dryer on high) to shrink the tubing around the wire nutted connection. I next installed the metal clip that would hold the block to the stove top. I placed the new block back to the location where the old block came from and secured it with the new screw provided by the kit. I re-installed the four screws to hold the top down, plugged in the four burners, turned the power on at the breaker box and turned the burner on to test that it work.

Received part after one working day and was installed
in five minutes.. Would recommend as a do it your self
project with the support of PartSelect.com

Very easy remove the burner and instill the drip bowls

replaced old, worn blocks with new style surface plug in block kits - all 4 burners. Completely resolved the problem at very low cost (less than $50.00).

Top (broil) element broke in two on oven. Ordered part,it was there in three days. Quick fix, removed screw holding element to oven wall, unplugged wires, then just swaped out elements. Re-attached wires just as they were on old element and screwed back into same place and oven is working again.

The lower element had burned out but in the process, it developed a short from line to neutral. Since the short was located about 3/4 of the total length from the one hot leg (L1) and the other hot leg (L2) was the relay controlled leg, there was a current path that allowed the element to heat even with L2 disconnected by the relay. Actually replacing the element was easy, just remove the back cover(s) and the element mounting screws (2) inside the oven cavity and the new unit slides into place. Reconnect the two wires to the new element and replace the back covers. Back in business and the cookies are coming out perfectly!

1. Turn off circuit breaker, pull out element and remove reflector pan.
2. Unfasten terminal block mounting screw and remove terminal block from casing.
3. Cut wires as close to defective terminal block as possible (not as per instructions) since you will need the maximum possible length of wire.
4. Slip on heat shrink sleeves, strip stove wires and connect to new terminal block per instructions.
5. Heat shrink sleeves per instructions.

I unscrewed the 3 screws that held the element in place. My husband disconnected the back wired part of element .Then he reconnected new element wires and I rescrewed 3 screws in of new element. Very simple. I just wasn't sure about the back wired part, but like I said my husband seemed to know what he was doing so I let him do that part!

removed old Plug-in block by removing 1 screw and cutting 2 wires. (Screw was so tight and rusty that I had to use vise grips to remove it). Installed new Plug-in block with wire nuts and heat shrink wraps. YOU just have to make sure the wires are seated in the block properly. This job was much easier than I anticipated. The burner works great now!

Very easy fix. This is done through the oven door. Don't pull it out or do anything exotic. Turn the breaker off. Don't skip this Since you're dealing with 220v here. Shine a bright light into the back of the oven to identify the element attachment screws. Use a number 2 Phillips to remove the 2 screws holding the element in place. Pull the element straight out. This may require a bit of manipulation wiggling back an forth. Don't yank to hard. There was probably 6" of free wire. Next free the wires attached via spade terminals from the old element. Putt the new element in place and reattach the wires. Carefully push wires back thru the holes and secure with the screws. Reset the breaker and turn it on. Totally simple. My oven was 18 years old and the screws came right out. I expected difficulty but none encountered.

Removed old assembly, attached wires to new and inserted into space for same. Of course you must turn off the range circuit breaker. The part that took the most time was removing the old assembly. Once that was done, the rest took only a few minutes.

The repair went real easy. Turned off power, unscrewed two screws at back of oven and disconnected the two wires. Reconnected two wires to new broiler element and remounted the new one with the two screws. Turned the breaker back on and had a steak cooking in no time.

Removed screws holding rear cover, removed cover. Male connector on Broil Element had rusted off and caused wire to fall onto the frame of the range, shorting it out.

Removed element by disconnecting other wire and removing the single Phillips head screw accessible from inside the oven. Released the element from the two hooks towards the front of the oven near the door and removed.

The wire to the element that burned off had a high temperature female push on connector that I did not have on hand. I had a high temp ring connector so I drilled one of the male connectors on the new element so I could use a small stainless screw and nut which I had to hold the ring terminal on.

After crimping the new connector on I fastened it to the element, connected the other wire and put the rear cover back.

Good to go now!

Shut off power to the oven.
Unscrewed the old broiler element, unplugged it.
plugged in new one, screwed it in.
Turned on the power. Voila!

just plugged it in!