FEP330BW1 Roper Range - Instructions

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires fom the old element .. connected them to the new element ... put the screws back ...and tested. problem solved

i just unpluged the old burner and slideed the new burners in place and they work great now like a new range

I read other other posts and followed their advice. Remove the 2 screws holding the element to the back of the oven...gently pull it out about 3" to reveal the connecting wires. I found the needle nose pliers were necessary to detach and reattach the wires. Don't yank! Be aware that the wires have a tendency to want to pull back into the back of the oven while they're loose. This was a wall oven and that woul've been a large problem if they they had. Otherwise it was a snap!

Replaced drip pans and now everything is level.

Removed all surface burners from range, removed range top screws, and suspended range top. Removed plug-in block mounting screw. Cut wires for plug-in block close to original wire-nut junction. Inserted contacts & wires from kit into plug-in block. Slid a provided shrink sleeve onto each wire. Stripped wires on range wires and then connected them to the plug-in block wires with the provided high-heat wire nuts. Selected one of the two provided plug-in block brackets that matched the original bracket on the range. Used a butane lighter to shrink the shrink sleeves over the wire nut connections. Snapped the appropriate bracket onto the plug-in block. Reassembled everything in reverse order and plugged in new element. Note: my only two issues are that the two high-heat wire nuts provided in the kit were a bit too small for the wire gauge in my Whirlpool range. It took some fiddling on my part by carefully re-stripping the range wires to get the wire nuts twisted on securely. Two more wire nuts of the next size up would have been appreciated. Also, I found that the provided plug-in block mounting screw did not find fit my range. No problem; I simply re-used the original screw. All in all, an easy repair and the element works perfectly.

The old part, including lightbulb and socket, had corroded into place, and the glass light cover was stuck to the socket. I used a dead blow hammer and a dowel just under the diameter of the hole to tap on the back side of the socket to loosen it and get it out. The metal tabs on the old socket were folded back to make it fit better (?), which made it harder to remove. Lots of muscling of the part to get it out. Easy to install new part once old one was out of the way. An experienced person would have removed the old part and installed the new in no time.

I trouble shot and traced out to electrical short in face panel and found burnt wires. I've been a licensed electrician for years and it takes alot of comon sense to trouble shoot and find problem. I found schetch-matic of appliance and searched computor and found partselect.com and tried it. It wasnt no time and the part was at my door. Thank you partselect and i would use them again in the future. billy

I took out the coils manually by pulling them out with slight pressure. Then I lift the hood by first unscrewing the four screws. I have never done anything like this before just intuitive sense to locate the screws that needed to be loosened. Afterwards I remember placing something underneath like a piece of 2x4 wood block to act as support to hold the hood open so I can work on the coils. The parts I got are exactly the same as those I am replacing so I just copied the connection and voila my electric range is working like new. Well of course before I touched anything, I made sure I turned off the main switch and that nobody switches it back on without my knowledge. Thanks for providing the parts, I just saved myself from buying a $600 electric range.

Disconnect power to the oven at circuit breaker. Most important confired power removed by turning on buner,also with electrial meter. Remove hex screw. Pulled purner forward approx 3 inches remove the two wires to burner element . Installed new burner reverse rotation . Returned power to oven,all was well no problems. Not to sure of burner wattage on old and new unit,as two burners are avaiable for this unit. All ok . Thanks to parts select for speedy part needed

Ordering the part online was easy. It arrived in a timely manner. I found a terrific video online showing how to install the terminal. It was so easy. Thank you for the great instructional video.

Removed the small metal panel covering the main power terminal in back of the electric range. Removed the nuts holding the red, white and black electrical wires from the range using the appropriate socket (there will be two nuts on each bolt end). Removed the two screws holding the main power terminal block with appropriate screw driver. Connect the new main power terminal block to the range using the two screws. Reconnect the red, black and white electrical wires coming from the range using one nut for each wire. IMPORTANT: do no over tighten the nuts because the bolts could snap. Reconnect the pigtail and secure the small metal panel covering the main power panel.

Locate and shut off 220 volt breaker to Stove/Oven. Remove baking racks from oven. Use phillips screw driver to remove two phillip head screws holding bottom baking element in place. Slowly pull out element/wires and use volt meter to check for presence of voltage. Remove wires from element by pulling off female spade connector, push wire connector onto new element, carefully push wiring and element end thru rear opening and secure with the two phillip head screws. Replace baking racks, turn 220 volt source back on and test element to a high temperture, leave oven door open, new element will smoke slightly and create a burning odor, so take a few minutes to break in the new element. You're now readly to bake.
If you don't have a volt meter, turn stove/oven "ON" with lights indicating that stove/oven is ON, turn circuit breaker off and watch indicator lights go "OFF" when circuit breaker is tripped.

Now I know why everyone said "less than 15 mins" for installation time...because "less than 5 min" wasn't an option! Went exactly as everyone described, just more quickly - turned off breaker, removed two screws, disconnected wires, reconnected wires to new element, re-attached it with screws, turned on breaker, checked it - worked like a charm. It was more work opening the box! Would have taken less time if my flashlight hadn't rolled off the open oven door leaving me with poor lighting conditions.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...
then I reconnected the two wires to the new element and put back the two screws that hold the element in place and the job was finished.

First I checked to make sure the power was off with an electrical meter (wiggins). Next I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I then pulled off the 2 wires replaced the element and put the 2 wires on the new element. I screwed it back into place and tested the element. When I turned the oven on my new element began to glow red and the repair was now complete. Super easy.