FEFS52DSA Frigidaire Range - Instructions

The repair was really easy. All I did was unplug the surface element and plug in the new one.

Husband very ill in bed. It's up to me!! Got a new bulb at HomeDepot and figured out how to get that wire 'thing' back in and the new glass cover installed. I DID IT!! WOW! My husband has always done these jobs around the house.......but now it's up to me.......and I'm not so dumb after all! I DID IT!! Now everyone who comes in the house.....I show them what I DID!! :-)

I started to smell burning electrical smell from the burner area and heard a "buzzing" sound from the burner control while the burner was on. Pulled the element and noticed that the wire coil end of the left element was burned and pitted from arcing.
Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening.
The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block.
I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight.
The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions.
Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.

purchased a square bit and removed screws easily and disconnected it from the wiring and pushed in the new element secured screw and it was back to baking.

Watched the video

my husband did the repair.He unplugged the stove removed the element and installed the new element.plugged the stove in and checked operation of element.Stove works great

Removed 2 screws, pulled out the panel, replaced the new panel and replaced the two screws. Less than 5 minutes.

Using a socket set and Robertson #3 (smallest) driver head,with the breaker shut off before working I removed the old element and disconnected the old element from the wire connections.I then installed the new element by connecting the terminals to the wire connection in the range before screwing the old retaining clips to the back of the oven compartment wall.Then I flipped the breaker switch back on and turned on the oven dial to 425 degrees to see the element heat up and glow red affirming the success of the repair.Total time to repair about 15 minutes.

The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.

We removed the old part and replaced it then when warming the oven all of a sudden there was a loud noise and something went and so we called a repair man which I guess we should of done in the first place. Now he has ordered a part that cost 170 soo that is my story don't try to repair if you don't have experience.

Simple Just plugged it in !

I used a small wrench, It was very easy to remove. once I removed the screws and disconnected the plugs from heating element then had to remove the back cover of stove so i could plug in new element. but was very easy. I am a single woman and was worried that it would be difficult to change. it only took me 20 minutes.

The broil element and range were both working so I removed the bake element to test for continuity. Use a 1/4” socket or wrench to remove the two screws holding the bake element to the rear wall of the inside of the oven. Pull the ends of the element out of their recesses taking care not to lose a wire inside the back panel of the oven. Pull the wires off the element ends. You should be able to do this by hand; use a flathead screwdriver for a little prying if necessary. Visually inspect the element for physical damage. If you don’t see any, test the element with an ohmmeter or multimeter. If it reads anything other than 0 ohms (continuity), your element is defective. Installation process is reverse of removal.

Pulled stove away from wall and unplug .Removed grates for better access. Unscewed element scews removed element & tested for continuity.there was none element is bad . Replaced with new one . Time about 20 minutes.

Originally I had anticipated a major problem requiring the removal of the back of the range and perhaps the necessity of employing the services of a repairman ($$!). Fortunately I waited for the arrival of the replacement element, which, upon inspection, was not configured to go through to the back of the range. What a relief!

The hardest part of the repair was finding the correct nutdriver (5/16"). Removal of the damaged element was simply backing out the two retaining screws inside the oven and pulling the element out far enough to expose the clips to the wire. Pulling them apart was easy enough, and then the element I disposed of immediately.

Reverse of removal of the old element was the installation of the new: Reconnect the clips to the element, push the wires back into the insulation, re-inserting the two retaining screws and tightening them gently.

The final step was to plug the range 220 cord into the outlet. Testing whether the element was functional was a breeze; the oven and the range elements worked perfectly.