EW23BC85KSCA Electrolux Refrigerator - Instructions

We replaced the damper, but it didn't fix the problem. We then purchased and replaced the thermistor. (We had previously replaced the defrost thermostat). The refrigerator side is now cooling better, but not enough. The damper doesn't seem to be opening. So we have now unplugged the damper and left the opening between the refrigerator propped open and the refrigerator side is now cool enough. (We had previously tried keeping the damper open before we replaced the thermistor and the refrigerator didn't cool off. So the thermistor did fix something, but the damper doesn't seem to have been the problem).

Replace gasket

First I obtained the manual to the refrigerator. I identified the screws to be removed. I turned off the water then unplugged the water lines. I then replaced the Water Filter Base and reassemble the parts. Within minutes of turning on the water, water and ice making had returned. I was a hero for saving the family $200 in parts and labor.

The instructions that were provided were perfect. Easy step by step. Entire installation took only 15 minutes

turn off ice maker, unplug electoral connection, under bottom of ice maker, remove two screws (hex) under bottom of ice maker, lift up on it to unhook it, take it out. (dump out all ice ). remove back plate on back of ice maker (two screws), the solenoid is held in place with two brass screws, remove them, then remove ground wire from solenoid and two wires, that connect to it,(make a note of how wires go back !). put it all back together and your good to go. . i dont think its really the solenoid that goes out, its the housing that encases it, and you have to buy another solenoid thats encased. good luck

Remove old gasket by pulling it away from the frame. Work all the way around the gasket till it is entirely separate from the door. Remove the old gasket by slipping it over the door. Note the orientation of the new gasket will have the small bead towards the door - slip the new gasket over the door so that it is in the inside of the freezer door. Press the small bead into the slot in the door. Work all the way around, pressing the bead in with your fingers. When it's all secure, close the door and check for no gaps. Takes 5 minutes and no tools - very easy. Make sure you order the correct COLOR of gasket - it comes in black and white. The black looks best on stainless steel door.

1. I took out one screw on the ice maker and loosened the other two screws and unplugged and removed the ice maker.
2. Next I took out 2 screws from the bottom of the auger drive box and unplugged the wiring harness and removed the box. The wiring harness was a little tricky. The lock on the plug pushes in to unlock even though it looks like it pulls out,.
3.next you must remove 2 screws from the left side bracket that holds the auger box and remove the bracket.
4.Now take out 8 screws that hold the back panel in place and remove the back panel.
5. now your looking at the evaporator fan blade and motor. The simple way to replace the fan blade is to unplug the motor and remove it from the freezer. It just sits in with nothing holding it. The fan requires a little pressure but should pull right off. Install new fan blade and put everything back in the same order it was removed.

From discussions with friends, I determined the problem might be easy to fix. The fridge made a lot of noise, but the compressor DID come on, and inside the freezer was cold, but the main fridge was warming.

After unplugging the fridge, I removed the fan assembly in the freezer (there were about 4 nuts and a couple of plugs to uncouple.

I could see right away the fan blades has broken off, but the motor looked good. The new new fan pushed easily onto the shift and fit perfectly in the housing.

I reinstalled the fan assembly, plugged in the fridge, and right away heard the new fan come on - very quietly. What was a roar became a whisper and the fridge was down to 38 degrees with a few hours.

Located problem part of ice maker on web site. Picked the part that had the highest percentage of being the the part that was broken (58% I think). Removed the part, waited for the new part, then put it all back together. Simple. It works great. Thanks for having such an easy web site to diagnose the problem.

Unscrew a few screws and remove some plastic covers to access the ice cube tray. Undue two wire connections and remove the tray. Put in the new unit in reverse order. I heard it may take awhile for the new ice maker to start doing anything. Mine didn't do anything for 6 hours, then made it's first batch. Making ice fine now ever since.

i put casket on i notice when i received casket in shipping box was bent on the end of the casket 's did not solve problem casket not flush air is due to damage from shipping in the box not happy with the product.

I pulled the old one out and pushed the new one in place.

Removed the trough that catches the ice.. two philips screws to take the front cover off. Side and bottom. Than quarter inch to remove cover over wires. Unplug ones to ice maker. Slide out a little and down. May be a zip tie in the back cut with sheet rock knife. Reverse to install.

Removed valve unplugged valve from electric removed water lines from valve and then reverse procedures then turn on water and use.That was it.

The repair itself total time was quick and easy. Since the original fan blade blew apart, it was only a matter of putting the new one on in it's place. This can be done by feeding the blade between the cowling and Condenser coil and applying pressure to get it on the shaft.

If your fan is still on the shaft, simply push it off and extract it the same way. Then place the new one on the shaft.

In my case, since the part would take a couple days to get, and I had food both in the fridge and the freezer, I removed and unplugged the Condenser Fan Motor and the cowling frame and temporarily spliced a small fan I had into the line for the condenser motor. This kept the fridge working long enough to get the replacement part.

Side note. Direction of airflow is towards the Compressor, and draws air across the Condenser coils.

Hope this helps someone. :)