EED251MMDR1 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

I went on the web to search for parts, did my screening of companies, and chose Partselect.com
They gave me accurate information, very nice, and double checked the part numbers, and the latest replacement part. I received it in a couple of days, followed the directions, and it's working just fine! I saved a lot of money through Partselect, instead of buying a new refrigerator.
NICE JOB Partselect!!
Thanks,
Michael

The part received was a straight replacement part - no modification required, just a simple remove and replace. This made the job really easy. Used the socket set to lower the front wheels to move the refrigerator, the nutdriver to remove the back cover and the valve, and the adjustable wrench to remove the water line. I had to cut the supply line tubing because the ferrule was too far up the line to make a good seal (minor leak quickly corrected with parts available in the kit - nice touch!) What took the most time was cleaning the coils and lint, etc. - hey I hadn't moved the unit in years! - but I did not include the 45-60 minutes this took in the repair time. Directions supplied were clear and easy to follow - but in my case I could have done the job without them - easy to see what needed to be done, but the stated precautions were nice.

The replacement valve was identical to the old one, so I didn't have to use any of the adapter parts sent with the new valve. This made the installation rather simple. After removing the back cover on the lower part of the refrigerator, I turned off the water and electrical supplies, and removed the water supply line to the valve. Then I removed the two screws securing the valve to the refrigerator. Next, I removed the two electrical connections from the valve, and unscrewed the plastic nuts holding the tubing to the valve. I didn't have to use a wrench to do this as they were hand tight, so when I attached the tubing to the new valve I tightened the nuts hand tight. This seemed to be sufficient and avoided the possibility of stripping the nuts. After checking for leaks, I attached the electrical connections and secured the new valve to the refrigerator. Then I attached the water supply line, but before replacing the back cover, I turned on the refrigerator, and let it cycle through it's first load of ice.

First I unplugged appliance then I remove two screws from the thermostat/light cover. I then remove two defrost timer mounting screws and all electrical connectors. Then utilizing instructions recieved with new defrost timer I ascertained which wires should go where. When I was sure I had the wires ready I connected them to the others in the appliance and plugged the appliance in to ensure that the noise was no longer heard and made sure timer was working. Everything seemed fine so I unplugged appliance and secured two defrost timer mounting screws and thermostat/light cover mounting screws and that was that.

On a whim I looked into what it would take to fix my garage older 2nd fridge. I was thinking I needed a new seal, but when I checked the website there was a great troubleshooter. I would have never guessed that the defrost timer was what would cause it not to ever get cold. After a fairly simple repair the freezer is colder than ever and I actually had to turn it down. The only complication was the fridge was stuck in a defrost cycle so I had to reset the timer to get the refrigerator running. Thanks so much for a super helpful site for a do-it-yourselfer like me.

I loosened all the screws around the perimeter of the door and pulled the old gasket out. While doing this, the new gasket had been sitting in warm water so it would become more flexible. I then started at the top of the door sliding the new gasket under the retainer and worked my way down the sides and across the bottom. After this, I tightened the screws a little at a time until they were all tight.

removed the defrost timer and replaced with new unit now i have a refrigerator again

Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.

I turned off the water supply and disconnected the power. Then I removed the back cover plate and the two water lines. Fortunately the water lines are a different size so it is not confusing which line goes on each outlet. Then I loosened the two screws that fasten the valve assembly. It requires a nut driver with a flexible drive or a 1/4" socket set with a "U" joint. We were then able to disconnect the third water line on the back side of the valve assembly. I then reversed the sequence to install the new valve. The only difficulty is getting the screws started on the valve assembly.
The trouble shooting guide in the Kitchen-aid user manual is totally inadequate. I bought and replaced the whole icemaker unit when all I needed was the valve.

Instructions were simple and clear. Removed knob, snapped off plastic control panel. Then removed five 1/4" head sheetmetal screws to remove metal bracket holding thermostat. Two more 1/4" head screws held the thermostat to the bracket. Then pulled off the three fast-on electrical connections and pulled the thermostat and thermocouple tube out. Reversed the process to install new thermostat. My 33 year old garage refrigerator now works perfectly again! NOTE: searching for "thermostat" on the site didn't work.. It's called a "cold control thermostat" for some reason. That's redundant; other than cold, why would a themostat be in a refigerator, for heaven's sakes!?

I took the old one out and put the new one in. EASY!

It was so easy!

Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.

I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!

Easy!

And I am not Mr. Fix-it!

Started the replacement of the existing dual outlet valve by removing cardboard covering the lower back of the refrigerator exposing the outlet valve. Closed the water supply valve at the wall. Removed the hose bibb water supply connection on the outlet valve by hand as it is only hand-tight. I used a small plastic container to catch the minimal amount of water left in the copper line. I removed the electrical connection on each solenoid valve (one for the in-door water supply and one for the icemaker supply). I removed the plastic supply lines from the outlet valve. I removed the screws on the bracket attaching the dual outlet valve to the refrigerator vertical rail. I reconnected the electrical connectors to the valve. I reattached the plastic supply lines to the valve, but did not tighten them fully at this point. I secured the bracket on the new valve to the existing screwholes on the refrigerator rail. The new outlet valve does not have a hose bibb connector, it has a compression fitting for the supply. I reused the existing copper supply line from the wall angle-stop valve to reconnect to the new outlet valve. (It would have been best to have cut the copper line and used a new furrel on the copper line). Note that the supply line now comes into the outlet valve from the top, not the rear as on the old valve, so now the dual outlet valve sticks out beyond the frame of the refrigerator. I tightened the nuts on the plastic supply lines on the valve. I had to cut the cardboard cover around the new outlet valve. Resecured the cardboard cover to the back of the frig. Checked for leaks, turned the icemaker on by lowering the shutoff arm, and after a few moments, the outlet valve opened, water flowed into the icemaker, and all is well.

I replaced the dual outlet valve and deiced the filler tube going to the ice maker. I removed the filler tube and ran hot water on it. I believe the old filler valve was leaking letting water slowly into the filler tube where it eventually froze solid.

A simple job to remove the plastic cover held by two screws. Then one screw which held the old controller frame. Then remove two screws which held controller. Putting it back was just the reverse.
I did not have to adjust the new control position but with the wrench in the kit it would have been no trouble to do that either.
The instructions were just fine and anyone with a little mechanical knowledge could do it