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Noisy like a chain rattling inside
Disconnect Power from the Dryer Remove 2 screws that held the top on the dryer. Removed the 2 screw that held the front on the dryer. Unhooked the belt from the tensioner and motor pulley. Pulled the drum out. Removed the belt. Removed the three screws that held the bearing assembly on the back of the drum. Removed the keeper o-ring slide the bad bearing off of shaft. Slide the new bearing on the shaft put the new o-ring on the shaft. Reassembled the bearing on back of the drum. Put belt back around the drum and put drum back in place. Put The belt around the motor pulley and tensioner (this is probably the hardest part). Put the front and top back together. Turned the power back on. Job done
my problem was easy, i orderd a new lint filter, for a dryer that is at least 10y/o. it came to me by FEDEX, in 3 days. i threw out the old one and put in the new one. easy peasy. i will say that this website had what i wanted and got it to me very quickly. good job by PARTSELECT......
Blower wheel shaft hole was rounded out, lamp was out
Removed two screws on dryer top and removed top, removed two screws holding front of cabinet and removed cabinet front to the side, disconnected wires to door switch, removed two bolts from motor mount bracket, pulled motor back to access blower wheel, removed old wheel and installed new one, reversed steps, unscrewed old light bulb and screwed in new one.
Had pure hell getting to drum belt and putting it back onto motor pulley and idler, cussed a little, didn't really help . replaced front of cabinet and top, did test run all worked ok.
This job was a little difficult, espicially accessing the belt and idler pulley...
The diagrams on the Parts Select web site is what made it easy for me. I could see from the diagram how the dryer was assembled. I removed the two screws holding the top on then separated the front apart from the drum. I did have to remove the panel in the back where the power connects to access the drive pulley and belt tensioner. I slid the old belt off and simply reversed the procedure for the new one. Put it back together and it runs beautifully.
I also installed a new door gasket with no tools. Now it does not leak lint from the fronf door.
Dryer not heating. When moving it away from wall it was sparking badly where the cord hooks up.
Removed case parts to expose internal wiring. Vacuumed up various types of mouse debris and plugged hole they were using. Ordered terminal block to replace the one that melted while sparks were flying. Replaced power cord with one I had in my basement from some other appliance that died a while ago. "Hey honey, ya know those old parts I saved..." :) Now it is heating to capacity and no spark-show! Oh yeah, the part I ordered from Partselect.com was delivered to my door the next day!!!!! Wow!
When I went home at Christmas, I saw that my Mom had been using a small bench to keep her dryer door shut. I wrote the make / model of the dryer down and found your website. I ordered the part, and my sister snapped it into place. My mom was so happy to have her dryer door stay shut again!
I took off the top panel and ran the dryer. I watched as the drum turned more and more slowly until it stopped. I turned it off, and unplugged it. I took off the front panel, simply swinging it to the left like a gate so I didn't have to disconnect any wires, then pulled out the drum. I should have taken the belt off the pulley idler first! Got the drum out and could see the broken idler wheel and the groove on the drum's back post for the O-ring. There is a silicon sheath that goes on this back post - don't lose it if it is still good or you'll have to buy another. Getting the idler wheel off the stem was as simple as using the pliers to turn the nut until it came off. I put the new one on, then put the nut back on. I adjusted the position of the idler pulley so that the belt would not be out of line with the pulley on the motor - I just eye-balled it. I slipped the belt around the drum, put the silicon sheath back on the drum post, then put the o-ring in the groove on the post. Put the drum back in the dryer, lining up the post to go back in the hole was a challenge. Then, getting the belt back on the pulley needed a little muscle to apply the tension needed to allow the belt to get into place. I had one hand in each opening on each side of the drum and did it by feel. I put the front panel back on and did a test run. The drum was turning with force now, not slowing down nor easy to stop by applying resistance with my hand. It was also much quieter. Put on the top panel and done!
1st - removed the two screws inside the front door panel. They are somewhat hidden up underneath so you may have to look for them. 2nd - I removed the top of the dryer cabinet by lifting it out of the clips holding it in place. 3rd - removed the two screws (one on each side) in the o=uppper corner of where the side panels connect the front panel. These are about 3/4" phillips head screws. Then the front panel could be moved to one side of the dry. 4th - remove the drum by lifting it up and out the open top area. 5th - add the new belt to the dryer tub (rib side towards the drum) and replace dryer tub to its original position. 6th - reaching in underneath the tub you need to pull the ideler pulley toward the center of the cabinet while laying the belt on the "outer side" of the ideler pulley and at the same time fitting the belt over the small pulley located on the motor. Once that is done, you reassemble in reverse order and should be good to go.
Used an allen wrench to remove the heat deflector and used allen wrench to replace it with the new one. HINT!! Do not lean on the inside of the dryer!!!!!!
I was cleaning my laundry room when I noticed the gasket needed cleaning. While wiping it off it appeared as though I could remove it and that was my biggest mistake. Once removed it could not be replaced, due to the little parts that held it to the door began tearing off as I tried to put it back on. I ordered a new gasket and had it put on. It did not require any tools, just concentration. I've learned "if it's not broken, don't fix it"! I spoke with several other people and I am the only one who has removed a gasket. Thank you very much PartSelect for your help.
I followed the instruction of the first posting for this category and it worked perfectly...thanks for the nice detail...
- Upon receipt from PartSelect, placed new slides in Drum Bearing (this does not come together or as a kit - must order 4 slides AND Bearing separately for this dryer model) - Loosened Top panel screws (2) from inside door area - Slid top of dryer off - PAY attention to HOW the top comes out (tabs at the back and slots on the sides) or replacing the top could prove frustrating) - Loosened Front panel screws (2) and GENTLY leaned the panel forward to access Drum Bearing - no need to REMOVE the front panel but be aware of the switch wires when leaning and the weight of the door if you did not remove that - Removed old Drum Bearing - Vacuumend interior of dryer cabinet (especially area leading down to vent) - Snapped new Drum Bearing into place - Re-secured Front panel paying attention to drum position to make sure everything still rotated properly and freely - Reset Top panel - align back tabs first, gently pull forward just a bit until Top slips down over side tabs, then slide back into place and re-secure
I had to remove all screws from the back of the dryer, control panel, and one side. Pulled top off. Took out two screws that held front door panel on. Disconnected 3 wires into door and completely removed door panel. Disconneted pink wire from heating element then slide belt off drum as I removed the drum. Pulled off the old completly worn out drum bearing sleeve and replaced it. Replaced drum slides as some were worn through. Had a little trouble getting belt back on when I reconnected everything but for 50 dollars in parts and shipping I have working dryer, so I would say it was well worth the effort.