DE306 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

replace the water valve

Bought a house and inherited an ancient set of appliances. I figured that they dont make em like they use to so why get rid of them. Noticed the dryer tub wasnt spinning one day after running through three cycles. I took the back off and realized the belt that made the tub spin was broke. Went ahead and ordered both belts (old age catches us all) so i wouldnt have to order the other a few weeks later. Pulled the spring took the old belt off put on the new ones like ya would a bike chain. Used the pliers to put the spring back on and voila.

My wife did the repair. Went on your website and watch the video on how to replace the switch and she was able to do it herself. I didn't mind at all. Saved $75.00 service charge.

After removing the front of the dryer it was evident that the blower boss had broken where the motor shaft comes through and is attached. I removed a few more parts to make the blower more accessible and removed it. I then machined a new boss and attached it to the blower and reinstalled it.I then did a quick continuity check on the three thermostats since the dryer was already apart.I discovered one was faulty and ordered a new one from you.That repair took all of five minutes.The irony of the whole thing is that while I was ordering the thermostat from you,I asked out of curiosity,if the blower was still available. As it turns out it still is but the new machined part worked out great and the dryer was back up and running in no time.

Thanks again,
Dave

I was impressed with the fast time the part was delivered. The price was good too. The installation video and instructions did not match my dryer but it was helpful to some extent. The video and instructions being different was not ya'll's fault because of the age of the dryer. It took me so long to change the switch was because of the location and design of the switch. I got it though.

If needing to replace the heating coil make sure you order/replace the insulators that are fried, when the heating coil gets shorted out. I usually need to replace two or three of them. 1. Disconnect power cord. 2. Remove the front door by lifting it "up" off of the hinges. 3. Remove rear panel 4. Draw a diagram of the (5) wires/colors that attach to the drum housing and disconnect them. 5. Remove (2) rear screws for top and slide the top forward to disengage it. 6. Support the top with a couple of boards across the sides. 7. Remove (4) screws, located on the door recess, that retains the metal heating coil shroud. 8. Remove the (2) screws that retain the microswitch & upper hinge. Leave the wires attached to the microswitch. 9. Disconnect the (2) wires to the heating coil shroud. 10. The top can now be placed on the floor behind the dryer. 11. Remove the (6) bottom screws for the sides and slide the entire sides and front away from the base, enough to get access to the heating coil shroud. 12. Remove heating coil shroud, replace damaged insulators and the heating coil. 13. Re-assemble in reverse order. Note: Before re-attaching the rear panel, the drum must be centered with the cabinet. This can be checked by looking in from the back at the drum clearance to each of the cabinet sides, making sure there is equal clearance on each side. Shim under the base to center the drum. Now replace the rear panel and "secure" it, because this is the only way the dryer drum (on the base) will remain centered in the cabinet when the dryer is moved back to its original location and leveled.

Remove dryer back,release spring tension to remove belts. Clean lint and pulleys. Replace belts,spring tension and back and LEVEL Dryer. NOTE: The back is part of the frame, make sure all screws tighten DO NOT omit any.

Removed the old one installed the new one

This repair took me longer because I was just giving it a try - I have no experience, although I tend to be "handy." I'm sure anyone with experience would rate this as "easy" and have taken only a short time. I had to watch the video several times to understand what to do - and the comments were helpful too. My washer is an OLD maytag, so I removed the front of the dash and pulled it forward to access the electronics. My switch had only 2 prongs, so I hooked up to the "lid closed" option on the new switch. It works perfectly now. Very pleased I gave it a try.

I found on youtube that there are directions to repair. Dryer problems are usually one of three things, the door switch being one of them. i checked this last (should have been first). ordered the part( about 65% off sear's cost) and it came in one day! It went on really easy as long as you knew from repair video how to access inside. almost spent $400.00 on a new one.