CYE22UP2MJS1 General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Installing the part repaired the fridge and freezer immediately.

First, turn off power - since I did not want to pull the refrigerator out on my wood floor I tripped the circuit breaker to that circuit and opened door to make sure interior light was off (ensuring power was off). This unit has a bottom freezer, I took out all shelves, ice maker and all parts in the way of accessing back of interior of freezer section. Removed back plastic section by removing one screw in middle top of back panel and prying it out. This was a bit difficult as it was in there a bit tight but once the plastic warmed up it pulled out ok. This revealed the compressor section and temp sensor that was attached to the copper coils with of all things - a zip tie! In pictures of this that I looked at on various web sites the sensor was on a metal bracket attached to the coil so it made me wonder if tf the factory took a shortcut? I cut the old sensor wire, stripped the two wires 1/2", and connected them to the new sensor wire with butt connectors, I put some silicone into the ends of the butt connectors to prevent moisture from entering into connectors and wrapped the connection in black electrical tape. I then "attached" the sensor to the coil using a zip tie, put the plastic back piece back on, inserted everything I took out and put power back to refrigerator. It's been 3 days and temp of refrigerator is stable, ice maker not clogging up, and compressor not running all the time! So far so good.

I recieved the package with the correct part number but the wrong part inside. The item in the package does not even resemble the part on the GE parts website. Tried to contact parts select but no luck.

Removed drawers, lifted out old frame assembly ( no tools ) removed and cleaned old glass from assembly.
Carefully screwed old rollers ( x4 )into new frame, then placed old glass in new frame, repositioned frame into refrigerator and then repositioned drawers in frame.
20 minutes , no issues

It just snapped in. Fit perfectly. Excellent service.

Popped it up and popped new one on

Replaced Temperature Sensor and now it is getting cold.

Exposed evap defrosted with heat gun exposed defrost element defrost termination switch ok therminster didn’t check out the thermistor sends the signal to logic panel then run the the freezer ice machine and refer temps it took 24 hours before the system starting to show results freezer compartment 10 below ice compartment 0 degrees refer temp 37 degrees one refrigerant three different temps system is running at optimum performance 450.00 $ service call the thing with GE appliances there is no wiring diagram .thankyou parts select .ill use you on all domestic service calls.

On the internet forum I read that if the control board needs to be changed , do the same for the Run Capacitor/relay.
The Ge profile refrigerator was 15 years old. First I disconnect the power cord,
I removed the control board at the back of the fridge, replaced it with a new one and did the same for the run capacitor.
Plugged the power cord back and it works fine. GE repair service did not want to come to do it. DIY is fine.

Totally followed the instructions of the video that came with the sensor. Unplugged the the fridge, defrosted the freezer. Cut off the main sensor that usually is the one that goes out. Installed the the new sensor with new wire terminals, crimped them and covered with electrical tape. Fridge works like a charm. Partsselect is excellent. Saved me a few hundred dollars versus having a GE Tech come and do it.

Snap filter into place while holding the filter slightly away from the refrig. When filter snaps into place, push it towards refrig into place.

1. Removed and tested defrost heater, tests good. 2. Reinstalled defrost heater. 3. Removed and tested defrost over-temperature sensor, tests good. 4. Reinstalled over-temperature sensor using soldering iron, dielectric silicone grease, and heat-shrink tubing. 5. Removed the control printed circuit board and checked for blown fuse's, fuse's are all good. 6. Removed the defrost relay from the printed circuit board using soldering iron, bench tested the relay, it is good. 7. Soldered defrost relay back onto the circuit board, and reinstalled control board. 8. Removed and bench tested evaporator thermistor, the resistance is out of specification, ordered new thermister. 9. Installed new thermistor using soldering iron, dielectric silicone grease, and heat-shrink tubing. 10. Re-assembled refrigerator. 11. Installed temperature monitoring and recording instrumentation for 72 hour test. The defrost cycle is running correctly with a defrost termination temperature of around 90 deg-f. The defrost cycle ran twice while running the 72 hour test. 11. Removed test instrumentation and Put the unit back into service, The thermistor was the culprit. I bought the right part on the first shot, nice.

changed sensors did not repair problem,replaced damper with mechanical damper fixed problem.

took out shelves and removed the back plate my removing 2 screws with a nutdriver.removed the old defrost timer and defrost heater which was really easy.then installed the new ones.the video i watched on the website was really helpfull.

Followed the repair video, was spot on!!