CWG3600AAS13 Maytag Wall Oven - Instructions

Make sure the knobs are all in the off position before starting the work. You may feel more comfortable shutting the gas valve off behind the stove or in the basement first, just make sure you fire the burner and let the gas that is left in the line burn off.
Remove bottom pan in oven by sliding the pins (located in the back) towards you and picking up the back of the pan and pull it away from you, this will slide the pan off of the other 2 pins that you can not see on your end of the pan. Take the flare shield off from over top of the gas line (should be 2 nuts or 1 wing nut). Remove the screw or screws that hold the heat shield covering the ignitor wires and remove the heat shield. Unplug the ignitor. remove the screws holding the ignitor and remove it. Be sure to order the ignitor with the extra shield and make sure it has new screws, you may need to replace the screws. Try not to touch the element of the ignitor. it can be very brittle. It seems lengthy but is very quick and simple.

removed 2 screws on element then unpluged it then replaced it with new one easy job

Remove oven floor and bottom drawer
remove 2 1/4-inch screws holding ignitor
remove cover plate behind drawer to access P/J
Disconnect plug remove ignitor and reassemble

Did not have gas smell, but ignition took 6 minutes

First I called a local repair shop and after getting a 325.00 repair estimate I looked up your website and discovered that I could purchase the part for 46.00 dollars and followed the do it yourselfers imput Now thats what I call a savings

The repairs was easy,once I found the problem I turned the gas off and unplug the power supply cord. For the oven gas valve I used a 5/8 wrench to take the gas supply line away from the side of the valve inside the over. I used a 1/4 nutdriver to remove the two screw holding the braket down over the valve. For the glow-bar I donnected the power supply plug and used a 1/4 nutdriver to remove two screw holding it in place next to the brun.

followed instructions from repair manual.

seamed easy enough. Found the part and it looked identical, However I could not see the connector in the picture because the logo covered that part of the picture. Had to cut the connector off the old igniter and crimp it on to the new ingniter.

Tested power coming into unit,then tested power going to igniter,both of which were good.Did a continuity check of igniter element and found it to be bad.Ordered one from PartSelect,recieved it in minimum time,removed the old one,installed the new one,works like a champ.

He took out the bottom of the oven floor...came out easy ..had to unplug the old part and installed the new one the same way.He did have to unscrew two pieces. The only difficult part was reaching to plug in. Not too bad. Now he could do it quick and easier. Problably 10 minutes the most. Stove works great and I can cook again. Makes me happy.Thanks for all your help.

I started with pulling the base of the oven to examine the mechanism underneath. The hardest part of the whole thing was working the wire connection past the metal back of the oven. It required prying the metal away from the frame rail and wedging the wire connection through. Other than that it was unplugging the old, plugging in the new, and a few screws to reattach the igniter, heat sheilds, and oven base.

After reading how others replaced their defective Gas Oven Igniter, I decided to attempt the project. My only mistake was Removing the Oven Door. Though it came off with ease, it was a complete bear to put back on.
Once I removed the oven door, I located the two phillips head screws that held the bottom oven floor in place. One screw came off without much effort, however the other stripped and had to be drilled out.
After removing the oven floor plate, I quickly located the Igniter and using a nut driver, unscrewed it. One of the two screws stripped on me and had to be replaced. The new part was put in position and the process was reversed. This is where I encounted a problem.
After repeated attempts, I soon found that the oven door hindges had to be held in the open position with a flat head screwdriver in order to be put in place. I found no instructions or info on how to complete this process (even from Maytag) and only completed the tast by trial and error. I highly suggest NOT REMOVING THE OVEN DOOR to complete the repair. The repair itself is rather simple even with stripped screws.

I unplugged the power to the stove first,
I removed the racks and cover plate at the bottom on the oven. Located the 2 screws holding the element igniter in place. I pulled the stove forward and removed the back cover plate and unplugged the old element.
Installed the new element and tested the igniter, special note my oven would not ignite the propane with the cover plate not first being installed. The igniter glowed but would not ignite fuel.

First I tried oven ignitor. Did not cure the problem. Then ordered short sensor and it cured the problem. Pull range out & unplug unit.From inside unit remove two screws holding short sensor in &pull out from inside. Unhook sensor. Slide in new sensor& secure with two screws. Had to remove two screws on back of oven to plug in sensor to existing plug. Very simple job.

Removed the old igniter, followed the wires. Reversed the process and put it back together. Saved big bucks! Thanks for the quick service.

Removed oven bottom were you see the light glowing from then unscrewed igniter unpluged then took it out and put in new one went well i would do it again works great