CWE9000DDB Maytag Wall Oven - Instructions

Disassembled the oven door, removed broken glass, replaced with new glass and reassembled oven door. Took very little time. Online diagram on this site helped to keep everything in order and easily know what part was needed. Thanks!!!!

I took the broiler pan out of the shipping container and put it in the oven.

Turned off breakers to oven. Removed two screws that held oven in cabinet. Removed oven door by opening slightly and pulling up on door. Pulled oven out 1/3 of way. Took out four screws on top of control panel. Took oven light switch off by unscrewing holding ring. Removed temp knob on right by pulling. Removed start / stop knob same way.Removed glass straight out. Removed four screws that held elecrtonic clock conrtol board. Unpluged three wire plug from right side and the nine wire plug from the left side. Worked board out at and angle. Went backwards to connect and replace board, screws and door.Slid oven back in and tested oven after turning breakers back on, worked like new.

Unplugged the range, removed screws holding the old sensor. When I pulled it out, the wire connecting to the sensor was completely broken through,therefore I could not just pull the wire to get to the connector. Unscrewed one side of back panel to access the connector. Pushed the connector and wire of the new sensor through the hole ( and behind the insulation), disconnected the old sensor and connected the new one. Re screwed the new connector in place plus rescrewed the back panel. Plugged the range in and - Viola! Everything now works like a charm and I have my oven back. Easy-Peasy. Oh - I am an older female with very limited DYI experience. I just saved myself $650.00!

installed part,turned unit on-temp still cold. reset digital control, up 35 degrees, still cold. un-plugged unit,re-connect after 10 min. still cold.

Pulled range out from cabinet-wall to get to back side, everthing was clearly exposed tlhen. Just a matter of installing new fixture, putting back on, reconnected power source - put range back in proper place.

Replaced the thermostat according to existing videos and had to adjust the thermostat using instuctions in the user manual for model CWE4800ACB.

I removed the two mounting screws and pulled the harness through the opening unsnapped the sensor from the harness and installed the new sensor i didn't have to used the adapters the new sensor fitted

Extremely simple repair to make. Move stove away from wall and disconnect power. Remove the oven racks. Remove the rear sheet metal panel covering the wiring harnesses. Caution: Sharp edges and corners on sheet metal.Sensor is located in upper left corner on rear oven wall. Using a long-shafted #2 Philips screwdriver, remove the two Philips head screws and gently pull the sensor 1" away from the oven wall. At this point, it will help to have an assist from someone while you are behind the range. Have the assistant gently tug on the sensor while you watch for wires moving on the rear of the range. After locating the sensor wires, gently disconnect the plastic connector clip. Note: plastic connectors become brittle with age and exposure to heat Move to front of range and gently remove sensor from rear wall by pulling the wiring through the oven wall. Before inserting the new sensor wire through the oven wall, "dry fit" the wiring connectors to see that the new sensor is a correct connection. Make connection, and secure the sensor to the rear oven wall with the two screws. Install racks, reinstall rear sheet metal panel, and connect the power. Set the oven baking temperature to a moderately low temp, 300 - 350 deg. to test the new sensor.

Got a bent metal coathook to temporarily release the oven door, removed the screws from the old probe, inserted the new one, and hooked it up, using the one of the plug adapters provided. Problem solved! The oven door latch was now disengaged, the oven would now accept temperature inputs, and the rear cooling fan (which wouldn't shut off) now turned off. That's a lot of things working better for less than $50!

I followed peoples instructions here, and it was not very difficult.

I installed the new oven sensor but the problem continued. So I ordered a new relay board and installed it. Still no luck. So I pulled the new board back out and started trouble shooting it using my electronic background. I discovered the new board was using a pin for L2 that had no exit on the backplane, so I removed it and installed it where I believed it should go. Reinstalled the power relay board and presto. My oven is working lie a champ. Louis

I had to pull out the oven and balance the oven on two patio tables. Remove the back of the oven. Pull out the light assembly which was burnt. I was unable to remove the casing around the light, so I destroyed it with a pliers. Reinstalling the new light and assembly was easy. What made this job difficult, I could not remove the light assembly from the front of the oven and had to go in from the back.

After trying to set the bake temp after the self cleaning, it would not heat up. I Googled the model number,selected your link because it mentioned my symptom,and said usually it is the temp sensor in the oven that gets damaged by the high self cleaning heat. Your site had a place to enter my model number. You provided a great exploded view of the parts, showing me my sensor,then you provided the part number of the kit i needed,and filled out the order form with payment method. Less than a week later I got my part with instructions. Your video showed me the two screws I remove from the front ,and I pulled the old part out and uplugged it's connector. Replacement was easy, and oven was fixed! Thank you for a great site! You held my hand through it all!

Before beginning I made sure electrical current wasn't running to the element. (NOTE: CHECKING FOR A VOLTAGE DROP ACROSS THE ELEMENT IS NOT GOOD ENOUGH). The safest way to do this is to unplug the oven, because otherwise you're going to get a nasty surprise as soon as you touch the exposed wire.

I removed the two screws that anchor the element to the back of the oven. Then I pulled the element out a few inches and disconnected each of the wires attached to the element. These were easy to disconnect because they were quick-disconnect spade type connectors.

Next I got rid of the old element and tried to replace it with the new one, only to notice that the new element and the wires in the rear of the oven both had the female end of the spade connector. Like a total bimbo I'd either ordered the wrong part or just failed to notice what the connectors were supposed to be.

Instead of de-soldering the spade connectors on the element or the oven wires, I made two "spade adaptors" to make the connections compatible. For this I bought a package of spade connectors from Radio Shack and cut two pieces of 16 gauge rebare wire about 1/2" long. I soldered a male spade connector to the end of each rebar piece and then insulated it thoroughly with electrical tape to keep it from grounding out. (NOTE: DO NOT USE DUCT TAPE FOR THIS, ONLY INSULATING ELECTRICAL TAPE WILL DO). The result was two miniature pieces of wire, each with a male spade connector on the end. For lack of a better name, these were my spade adaptors.

When the two spade adaptors were ready, I connected them to the female ends of the wires in the oven, then to the female spade connectors on the new element. I wrapped all the connections in electrical tape to prevent accidental grounding. (NOTE: ELECTRICAL TAPE MELTS SO I KEPT IT FAR AWAY FROM THE ELEMENT.)

Finally I shoved the wires, my spade adaptors, and the ends of the element back into the holes at the rear of the oven and screwed the element back into place using the original screws. After that I turned the oven back on.

Most of the time was spent making the run to Radio Shack and trying to explain to the guy at the front desk what a quick disconnect spade connector is.