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Burner no longer worked.
First I removed a screw that held the element in place then disconnected the two wires . Then I just reattached the two wires put the screw back in place and was done in about 10 minutes. Fairly easy fix, I had this go out a few years ago and had a repairman fix it, and saw how easy it was, so this time I did it myself. Easy job!!
Our stove is from 1978 and was missing all but one drip bowl. I bought all the replacement parts from all the store, (Walmart, Target, Fred Meyer) nothing fit. I finally found this site and they fit perfectly! Thank you. If I have to keep the stove a while longer at least it looks clean and new now, and it still works great!
Burner got excessively hotand couldn't be regulated
The hardest part was breaking the caulk seal between the range and the cabinet. An extra set of hands made the job easier, by holding the panel while I connected the switch. The switch was delivered promptly and I am very happy with Parts Select. I found the other repair stories very helpful.
Seal was badly damaged on door of 24 year old range.
Removed two screws near the hinges and removed door and laid it on counter. As we removed screws from each part of the door, we stacked the parts in the order removed. Tossed screws into a shallow pan for safekeeping. Removed old seal and put new one in its place. Reassembled parts in reverse order as I cleaned each one. Put door back on the hinges and the job was done. Would have been a much quicker job, but door had 24 years of dribbles down in it, and needed a good cleaning.
We ordered a new element also, as the old one had blown up. Very gratifying to know there were still parts for my favorite old range.
First I removed the four torx screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Then I installed the new element in reverse order. Recycled the cardboard box and the old element.
Removed the 4 screws on the bottom of the panel, lifted the panel out and up to clear the uper part of the panel. Removed the screws from the left and right switches, which hold the bracket of the clock, marked the wires of the clock and removed the wires. Installed the new clock in reverse. The power to the range was off.
removed the damaged assembly by just pulling out from the connector. removed the broken glass top by taking out the screws holding the rim assembly and replaced the broken unit with the new one and plugged it back into the power assembly. Took all of 15 minutes.
1. Shut the breaker off; Jenn-Air's design will have you working around hot leads if you don't. 2. Raise the control panel 3. Remove burner and unscrew the burner connector; trace the wires back to the control panel bottom and remove them 4. On the replacement connector, add the electrical for the control panel. These are not included and can be found at any hardware store; they are a standard size. 5. Connect the new wires and put everything back together. 6. Reset the break and test.
I had a service guy come in and he told me the repair would be $550.00. I asked for a part list and did it myself. You guys saved me hundreds of dollars.
I first bought an oven thermometer to check temperatures at different levels. Temperature was about 10 or more degree off. I next looked at the manual and found you can make an adjustment to the temperature knob. This didn't make a difference. Decided I would replace the bottom heating element. I ordered and got the element in a matter of days. The hardest part was loosening up the screws on the bracket for the old element. Thus the use of the vice grip came in handy. My oven is 20 years old!!! I'm sure I saved my husband a couple hundred bucks worth the repair guy.
My thanks to "Part Select" for making the process so easy to order and get a replacement. The repair guy finally called yesterday. Five days after I repaired the oven myself.