CSX20GASBWH General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed the cover for the evaporater coils and let them defrost. Then took the old heating element out by removing two screws on the bottom element and two screws on the top element. Unplugged it and removed it from the unit. Then repeated the reverse of the procedure, installing the new unit, no wires to splice only one plug and four screws.

It was very simple, took out the slide rails and took a screwdriver and assembled. My wife was very pleased to have these drawers in working order once again.

Since the cam riser was obviously broken I obtained a replacement.
It also broke. The door hinge cam needed to be replaced also.
To repair Remove the hinge cover using a #2 phillips driver. Than remove the Hinge using an 8mm socket. Turn the door upside down and, using an 8mm socket remoge the cam riser and the door hinge cam.
Replace in reverse order.
Be sure to inspect all parts and order all required.

First I propped up the door. Then I removed the 2 screws that hold the hinge on. AT this point you do need someone else because the door swings loose. I attached the new bracket and lowered the door. It went verey smooth. I ordered the new bracket after reading the installation stories from others who just repaced the plastic pieces. Its worth the extra money to just put on a new bracket

Kenmore 24 cu.ft. Side by Side Refrigerator. The bottom cam on the fresh food side of our refrigerator broke causing the door to stay open about 4 inches. We had to lift the door up about an inch to close it. We removed the top bracket cover by removing one screw with a screwdriver. We then removed two screws with a ratchet and socket, to remove the top bracket, which allowed us to lift the door up and off of the refrigerator. We removed two screws with a socket to remove the Door Cam and Shim. We replace the Shim, and Door Cam with the two screws. Make sure you line the Cam up with the hole it goes over, and tighten it up. Place the door over the bottom bracket, and replace and adjust the top bracket and cover.

I followed the directions of Steve on the installation video. He makes it easy to do the repair with his step by step description of the installation. I have repaired three different aging appliances with help of Steve and PartSelect's very helpful Customer Service.
I wish Steve a wonderful retirement and hope PartSelect can find someone as easy to follow for future videos. The videos are priceless for the repairs.

rerfrigator side not cooling After determinating that the defrost timer was running I turned it to defrost and watched tosee if frost started to melt. When it didn't I checked the heater with ohmeter, checked OK, so the only other component in the defrost system is the thermostat. Then just a matter of cutting and splicing wires and snapping the new thermost in place

Two nuts, door was off. 2 nuts stop was off. Nuts on, door on, nuts on.

Could not have been more easy.

The old switch was hard to remove. Thinking that I may have to loosen the wires I used a socket wrench to remove a clamp. This was unnecessary. In the end the switch did come out using a large size screwdriver. The problem was that the expanding plastic tongue is not visible from the ouside so you have to try to feel your way around. If i had ordered the replacement before and not afterwards I would have seen this before hand.

Removed the storage bins, unscrewed the old rails, screwed in the new rails and saved a Sears service call plus their mark up on the parts. Estimated savings was about $100.

After replacing the light bulb and still no light I manually pushed the light switch button. Intermittently the light would come on then go out. I removed the power plug from the power source then replaced the light switch. I plugged the refrigerator back in and now I open the door the light comes on and stays on until the door is closed.

Checked continuity of defrost timer and marked to make sure was cycling. When checked continuity of top defrost tube-it was fine but, soon as looked at bottom tube could see problem. Tube was black, no continuity, and left side of tube was separated from the rubber connector, thought obviously water entered tube during defrost and shorted unit and since wired in series with bottom unit not working would not allow power to reach top unit. New replacement kit simple to install-4 phillips screws hold the 2 units in place- thermostat clips to top coil and wiring runs along the coils to top with thermostat- connect 3 prong plug to existing hook up and put on cover plate with 2 cap screws and 2 phillips the job was completed, IMMEDIATE RESULTS. Suggestion- even though tubes are available separately the time to rewire into the existing harness to save couple $$ is not worth it- the other unit will have lost some continuity in comparison to new install so will have tendency to go bad quickly-spring for the difference and have piece of mind for many years to come for replacement of this part. 2 day standard shipping by ground right to door and the little woman thought I was superman of repairs. Since this model was built by GE for Sears- check on Sears was double and inquire in tech repair was double again-Part Select is quality,speed in processing and makes tight budget go the distance.

First i unplugged the refridgerator.Then i removed the freezer shelves and the 4 screws that hold the rear panel in the freezer.Next use a heat gun or hair dryer to melt the ice from the coils making sure not to overheat anything.Be sure to place something in the bottom of the freezer to catch the water and block the hole with something to keep screws from falling in there.
Next,look how the heater element wires are routed so you can get them back the same way or close.Take a picture if you want.Now remove the 2 screws on the end of each element and remove the elements.Replace both even if only one looks bad.The element wire plugs in near the top of the freezer and the thermostat clips onto a metal tube.

I propped up the door with 2x4 and shims to be level with the freezer door. Then removed the 2 screws holding the hinge to the main unit. Then removed the 2 screws holding the cam washer to the door.
Replacement was the reverse of disassembly. Be sure to tighten screws almost tight until both pieces are located correctly then fully tighten. Lift up refrigerator door slightly to remove shims and wood block.
I did the replacement myself but was nervous that the door would fall off the block and shims. I recommend having another person hold the door closed during the process.

Removed door contents to lower weight (good time to clean/disinfect door compartments), blocked and shimmed door up to correct fininished height. Removed lower hinge components (make sure shims positions are noted). Replaced w/new components and removed blocking. Easy job, should have done sooner.