CST25GRYAWW Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

I removed all of the items in the refrigerator door. I then removed the top hinge cover with a Philips screwdriver, and removed the two machine screws holding the top hinge using a socket wrench. This allowed me to lift the door off the bottom hinge pins and set the door on its side. I removed the two screws holding on the broken bottom hinge cam riser block and replace it with the new one. After tighening it back with a socket wrench, I tried to put the door back in place. I asked my wife to hold the door steady while I lay on the floor to guide the door downward over the bottom hinge pin. I then replaced the top hinge screws and checked the door. It still didn't close on its own! I realized I had to loosen the top hinge screws and adjust the door so that it stands more vertically (evening the gap with the freezer door). With this adjustment, the door closes fine.

I used pliers to pull lightly on the head of the switch, while I inserted a small flat head screw driver into the base of switch and gently worked around the edges to free it from the panel.

Performed self test.turned off ice maker switch four 5 minutes.Then turn on switch,within 10 seconds,pushed ice paddle 3 times,with 1 second in between each push.Push all the way back and release. Ice maker should cycle and squirt water. My ice maker did neither.I unplugged cord from fridge.So i replaced the ice maker.After a couple of screws had ice again !

Unplugged the refrigerator. Removed the panel to the ice/water dispenser. Removed the cover that displays ice type/water and light. Removed the 4 screws holding the cover. Unplugged the wiring harness to the cover which allowed easy access to the two electrical connections to the solenoid.
Removed the three bottem screws holding the solenoid in place. Loosened the top screw ( do not remove completely) and the solenoid slide down. Removed the solenoid arm that hangs on door latch.
Install hang solenoid arm on door latch; slide solenoid up under top screw. Install bottom 3 screws to hold solenoid in place then tighten top screw. Reattach electrical lines to solenoid then plug wiring harness back into cover. Install 4 screws holding panel in place. Re-install two remaining covers.

This was a very easy fix. I cut the water lines at the reservoir, coupled the old lines to the new lines with two plastic barbed fittings used for outdoor drip irrigation. All I had to do was pull the old lines out and the new lines followed. Easy as pie!

I replaced the control board and the solenoid. This was very simple and easy to do. Make sure the power is disconneted before starting. I then removed the accuator pad and holder. Removed the face plate by simply pulling on it. I then removed the four screws holding the control board unit. I unplugged the unite by pulling the block connector on the left side. I then marked on paper the connections to the solenoid and unplugged it. I removed the three screws holding the solenoid the removed it. When installing the new solenoid make certain the rod to the dispenser is put into the solenoid plunger. Then replace the three screws and plug the wires back in using the connections written down on paper. I then removed the two philips screws on the control unit hold down bracket in order to remove the controll board. After removing the screws and the hold down bracket, I pulled the old board out and put the new one in. I then reinstalled the unit, faceplate, and accuator pad. I then turned the power back on and tested it. Worked like new, saving a lot of money...

The old switch was hard to remove. Thinking that I may have to loosen the wires I used a socket wrench to remove a clamp. This was unnecessary. In the end the switch did come out using a large size screwdriver. The problem was that the expanding plastic tongue is not visible from the ouside so you have to try to feel your way around. If i had ordered the replacement before and not afterwards I would have seen this before hand.

Evaporator freezing up. First changed the heaters. still freezing up. Ordered the timer. Removed the control's cover. Removed 1 screw, timer was fastedned with 2 screws, removed them, replaced with new timer. Problem fixed

First disconnect power and turn off water supply.Removes the cover that indicates water and ice settings,removed 4 screws that held the switch assembly on,unplugged wiring harness (left solenoid wires connected.removed screw holding arm that closes door and removed assembly.Covered hole with duct tape ordered parts (which came very quickly turned water and power back on.When new parts came actuator arm was different on door put old one on door and reassembled in reverse order

Very easy. The top rail was replaced with the new part. The lower rail was found broken upon removal of drawers, and not having a second new rail, I made an aluminum inser for the screws to hold fast and attached it with fiberglass tape and CA .
I realy was impress with your fast service and knowledge of interchangable parts from other bran makers. We got an GE brand part instead of a Kenmore but It worked perfect.
Thanks for your NEXT DAY delivery. .

After replacing the light bulb and still no light I manually pushed the light switch button. Intermittently the light would come on then go out. I removed the power plug from the power source then replaced the light switch. I plugged the refrigerator back in and now I open the door the light comes on and stays on until the door is closed.

Shut water supply off, removed power plug from wall and removed electrical connector from valve. Unscrewed two plastic nuts which retained lines to old valve. Remove old valve and reinstalled new valve with one screw. Removed inserts from end of lines. (These inserts keep lines from deforming.). Trimmed and chamfered ends of lines reinstalled inserts and installed lines to new valve. Turned on watter, checked for leaks turned power on inserted glass for water received good flow. Ice maker did not receive water. Due to low flow of water to ice tray because of low flow with old valve, ice built up in flexable water delivery tube that goes from back of refrigator to ice tray. Removed tube ran under warm water removed ice blockage reinstall tube all working excelent. This iceing problem took about anouther 15 to 25 min to correct.

I propped up the door with 2x4 and shims to be level with the freezer door. Then removed the 2 screws holding the hinge to the main unit. Then removed the 2 screws holding the cam washer to the door.
Replacement was the reverse of disassembly. Be sure to tighten screws almost tight until both pieces are located correctly then fully tighten. Lift up refrigerator door slightly to remove shims and wood block.
I did the replacement myself but was nervous that the door would fall off the block and shims. I recommend having another person hold the door closed during the process.

Removed goods in fridge, removed shelf, unscrewed 2 screws, installed new drawer slide with 2 screws, replaced shelf, inserted drawer. Most of the time was moving the stuff in the refregerator. If the fridge was empty it would have taken me 2 minutes.

Remove the ice maker, motor and replace.

The biggest problem was that the part was NOT available from GE. Part Select had the part, it was easily identified on their website and it couldn't have been easier to order it.

The repair from GE would have cost me hundreds of dollars. Thanks Parts Select.