CST25GRYAWW Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

After determining that the condenser motor, fan, nor ice maker were the source of the smell. Removed all the food and the rear panel of the freezer. Totally defrost the freezer before you remove the back panel. The panel has a gasket on either side, which are easy to remove and make removal of the panel easier. The back panel is also held on with 9 screws. The biggest problem was fitting both my hands into the freezer with a large body attached to the hands. The defrost heater had a burnt wire attached to the top heater. The two heaters remove with 2 screws each. The heater thermister snaps onto the freezer coils and is included in the defroster heater kit.
Replace the heater thermisters and wiring in the reverse order of removal. Re-attach the two gaskets to the back panel and slide the panel up from the bottom, this will allow re-assembly without removing the shelf brackets. Replace the 9 screws and yo are done.

First Remove the screw and cover from the left top front of the fridge using a Phillips Screw Driver # 2
Then using a nut driver 1/4 of inch (or Socket set)
remove the two nuts holding the door hinge keeping the door in closed position. Now unplug the electrical connector between the door and the fridge body(Simply pulling it apart) Now hold the door from the middle and raise it up so that it can slide out from the bottom hole, on the main body
Now place the door on a table or a flat surface(Put may be a sheet or some thing to prevent the finish from getting scratched) Now remove the nuts around the inner panel of the door(nut Driver or Socket set) Remove the old lining and discard .Install the new lines and then replace every thing in the reverse order.
Note : Before tighting the top nuts of the door, make sure you keep the door aligened so you would not have to do it after completeing the job.

All i had to do was pop off the front trim, remove 4 small screws, unplug two plugs and replace the board.

It took me a grand total of 9 minutes to get the job done.

Way cheaper than having a repair man come to the house twice, once to diagnose, and once to replace the board he would have ordered and marked up.

I ordered the wrong part, the ice maker assembly, because your diagram was not marked properly. I returned the part and you credited my account. Thanks. Ordered the new bucket. It worked fine. Now I have ice and crushed Ice whenever I want. Thanks.

p.s. I didnt use any tools, but to satisfy you I select nut driver.

Turned off The water supply. Removed the back panel corner(nut driver). Removed valve (nut driver) and water supply inlet line. Cut the old outlet lines at the valve (new lines are push in) disconnected electrical lines, Reinstalled inlet line and electrical lines. Reinstalled valve and back panel. Turned on the water. Ice maker filled with water and a short time later I had ice. Easy job.

First I propped up the door. Then I removed the 2 screws that hold the hinge on. AT this point you do need someone else because the door swings loose. I attached the new bracket and lowered the door. It went verey smooth. I ordered the new bracket after reading the installation stories from others who just repaced the plastic pieces. Its worth the extra money to just put on a new bracket

I had to take out 4 screws that held the element in place. remove the old element and disconnected one wire connection. put the new element back on and connected the wire .

Easy repair. Snapped cover off control panel. Removed 4 phillips head screws on control board assembly. Removed (2) connectors from assembly and pulled out defective unit. Installed new control board in reverse order. Everything now working. Very fast and easy repair once you have the part.

repair was simple removed glass shelf and removed the two screws holding rail in place. I was really amazed at the quick service that I had receiced, I ordered two of the same part and they had the instructions to send back the additional part in my email the next day. Thanks for your help.

Unplugged and shut off water. Popped off the face plate from below. Unscrewed 4 screws. Pulled out control board assembly. Pulled off two wire connectors. Unscrewed 2 screws to remove control board fastener. Replaced control board and reversed steps to assemble. When plugged in fridge, the switch was stuck on, so unplugged. Had to remove the rubber push plate and reassemble making sure the plastic lever was set properly in the control board. Reassembled and it worked properly.

SUPER easy repair, taking about 5 minutes. After taking out the ice bin, I removed one small phillip's head screw, put the light shield in place, and tightened the screw.

- Disconnect the valve assembly and remove electrical connection to water dispenser valve to prevent accidental water discharge

- Disconnect tubing from valve assembly, remove and keep compression nut.

-Disconnect tubing from junction to door tube remove and keep compression nut

-Remove screws used to mount reservoir, pull tubing into main refrigerator compartment and remove old reservoir and tubing.

- Note that one of the tubes on the new reservoir is 2' too short.

- Go to hardware store to purchase 5/16" universal tubing compression junction.

- Install reservoir and feed tubing through holes in main refrigerator compartment.

- Route tubing through woven tubing protectors and clips.

- Trim tubing to length and install in valve using old compression nut.

- Splice the piece of tubing trimmed from supply side of reservoir to the outlet side tube using the fitting purchased from the hardware store.

- Connect end of tubing to existing junction using old compression nut.

- Re-connect wires to valve solonoid and test for leaks.

- Re-install valve assembly to refrigerator frame.

rerfrigator side not cooling After determinating that the defrost timer was running I turned it to defrost and watched tosee if frost started to melt. When it didn't I checked the heater with ohmeter, checked OK, so the only other component in the defrost system is the thermostat. Then just a matter of cutting and splicing wires and snapping the new thermost in place

I pulled the refrigerator away from the wall and turned off the water to the refrigerator and unplugged it from the wall. After removing the icebucket from the freezer I located the mounting screws, loosened them, unplugged the electrical connection below the icemaker and carefully removed it from the freezer. I unpacked the replacement icemaker, matched it against the original and attached the electrical connection adapter. Using the slots provided on the new icemaker I placed it over the mounting screws after aligning the water inlet pipe properly. I tightened the mounting screws while maintaining the icemaker in a level position. I plugged in the electrical connector. Then I replaced the icebucket, plugged in the refigerator back into the 110VAC outlet, turned on the water and repositioned the refrigerator in it's normal position.

I removed all of the items in the refrigerator door. I then removed the top hinge cover with a Philips screwdriver, and removed the two machine screws holding the top hinge using a socket wrench. This allowed me to lift the door off the bottom hinge pins and set the door on its side. I removed the two screws holding on the broken bottom hinge cam riser block and replace it with the new one. After tighening it back with a socket wrench, I tried to put the door back in place. I asked my wife to hold the door steady while I lay on the floor to guide the door downward over the bottom hinge pin. I then replaced the top hinge screws and checked the door. It still didn't close on its own! I realized I had to loosen the top hinge screws and adjust the door so that it stands more vertically (evening the gap with the freezer door). With this adjustment, the door closes fine.