CS20X6W (DR10A) Crosley Refrigerator - Instructions
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Ice maker putting black pieces of plastic in the ice
Replaced ice ice maker using
All of the instructions on the website.
Very easy. A couple of the screws I had
To feel for because I couldn't gety big head
In the freezer far enough to see them.
Very simple and only took about 15 minutes.
All of the instructions on the website.
Very easy. A couple of the screws I had
To feel for because I couldn't gety big head
In the freezer far enough to see them.
Very simple and only took about 15 minutes.
Parts Used:
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Doug from Lewisville, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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water leak and frezes ice in bin
to easy to describe, remove 3 screws and a wire plug then install new unite.
Works great
Thanks
Works great
Thanks
Parts Used:
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Peter from Lancaster, PA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
2 of 2 people
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Old ice maker started leaking
Took under 5 minutes. Removed two screws and unplugged the wire bundle from refrigerator. Removed old unit. Put old wire bundle on new unit. Plugged wire bundle back into refrigerator and remounted the new ice maker. Could not have been easier. Watched the video first, it was very helpful.
Parts Used:
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Curtis from Barrington, IL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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Ice maker working with no production of ice
Turn off the water source and unplug freezer. Remove copper tube and then remove valve from back of refrigerator. Disconnect plastic tube and power connection. Mark power connection plug top with a "T", this reminder helps with the new valve. Plug power and plastic tube into new valve and screw assembly back into refrigerator. Using a wrench, connect copper tube into valve. Restore water source and plug back in in freezer. Within a couple hours, ice production was back.
Like the other repair stories (that helped me), this job was very easy.
Like the other repair stories (that helped me), this job was very easy.
Parts Used:
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Paul from East Northport, NY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
2 of 2 people
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Ice from icemaker taste metallic; new ice maker directly from box
I did not do the repair yet, there is no schematic on how to route the hose; also no description of how to do the routing/connections.
Parts Used:
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Samuel from ALEXANDRIA, VA
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Difficulty Level:Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
2 of 3 people
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Freezer-side cold; Fridge-side warm of side-by-side Refridgerator
evaporator coils were frozen solid and air wasn't flowing across them
read all directions first, then consider which steps you'd like to take
in any case...
- check for blockages in the upper and lower air vents that allow air from freezer side to cool the fridge-side
- inspect that the fan in the freezer side is actually turning and not blocked
- if no blockages and air is flowing between the sides...
- unplug the unit
- remove all goods from freezer and fridge
- remove freezer side racks
- remove rear panel on freezer side using philips screwdriver (note that the ice-cube tray motor housing must be freed by removing its screws. it can be pull out a bit to get to a single screw holding the top of the rear panel in place)
- allow the evaporator coils to evaporate all ice off, checking the drain pan under the fridge frequently - accelerate the process using a hair dryer or paint stripper (heat gun)
- disconnect the white wires from the connection block located about 2/3 of the way up the rear wall and check resistance using an ohmeter (see specs on back of fridge on circuit diagram)
- if you get a very high resistance reading, the heater element is likely broken. if so...
-- remove the 2 metal shields located horizontally across the evaporator coils (behind them are the two series-connected defrost heater elements)
-- visually inspect the elements - if they are discolored green or black, remove and inspect more closely (most likely they are blown, just like a light-bulb filament that shows black on the glass)
-- if you see nothing, remove them anyway (since high reading) and check connectors
-- replace them (likely only $30 to $75, depending on type)
- if coils seem ok, or if not suspect, check the defrost thermostat WHILE IT IS STILL IN A WORKING/COLD FREEZER.
- get the defrost thermostat into a coil chamber (other freezer or bucket of ice?) and check resistance using an ohmeter. It must be WELL-BELOW 40F to test it. When it is truly immersed in cold (as it would be in a working freezer), test the resistance. it should be 0-ohms when <<40F and some much higher resistance (>200KOhms) when > 40F.
- if not, replace it
-lastly, if neither the defrost heater elements are bad nor the defrost thermostat is bad, open up the defrost timer
-- the defrost timer is located in the fridge side, likely with the fridge thermostat knobs/controller
-- it is a 5-pin part that cannot be repaired. If all else is checked, most likely the defrost element is never coming on because the timer is not turning it on
read all directions first, then consider which steps you'd like to take
in any case...
- check for blockages in the upper and lower air vents that allow air from freezer side to cool the fridge-side
- inspect that the fan in the freezer side is actually turning and not blocked
- if no blockages and air is flowing between the sides...
- unplug the unit
- remove all goods from freezer and fridge
- remove freezer side racks
- remove rear panel on freezer side using philips screwdriver (note that the ice-cube tray motor housing must be freed by removing its screws. it can be pull out a bit to get to a single screw holding the top of the rear panel in place)
- allow the evaporator coils to evaporate all ice off, checking the drain pan under the fridge frequently - accelerate the process using a hair dryer or paint stripper (heat gun)
- disconnect the white wires from the connection block located about 2/3 of the way up the rear wall and check resistance using an ohmeter (see specs on back of fridge on circuit diagram)
- if you get a very high resistance reading, the heater element is likely broken. if so...
-- remove the 2 metal shields located horizontally across the evaporator coils (behind them are the two series-connected defrost heater elements)
-- visually inspect the elements - if they are discolored green or black, remove and inspect more closely (most likely they are blown, just like a light-bulb filament that shows black on the glass)
-- if you see nothing, remove them anyway (since high reading) and check connectors
-- replace them (likely only $30 to $75, depending on type)
- if coils seem ok, or if not suspect, check the defrost thermostat WHILE IT IS STILL IN A WORKING/COLD FREEZER.
- get the defrost thermostat into a coil chamber (other freezer or bucket of ice?) and check resistance using an ohmeter. It must be WELL-BELOW 40F to test it. When it is truly immersed in cold (as it would be in a working freezer), test the resistance. it should be 0-ohms when <<40F and some much higher resistance (>200KOhms) when > 40F.
- if not, replace it
-lastly, if neither the defrost heater elements are bad nor the defrost thermostat is bad, open up the defrost timer
-- the defrost timer is located in the fridge side, likely with the fridge thermostat knobs/controller
-- it is a 5-pin part that cannot be repaired. If all else is checked, most likely the defrost element is never coming on because the timer is not turning it on
Parts Used:
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Cami from Carmel, IN
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 3 people
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Ice Maker Leaked Creating an Ice block
Merely remove the front bottom screw that attached the ice maker to the refrigerator
Lift the ice maker gently off of the 2 top screws
Unplug the icemaker wiring harness from the back of the refrigerator, and remove
Snap off the end of the maker and remove the keeper for the wire arm
Remove the wire arm and install on new maker
Unplug the wiring harness from the old maker and plug into the new one
Plug the harness into the refrigerator, slip the new maker over the top screws, with the water feed tube inserted into the maker
Install bottom screw into the bracket that holds it in place.
This took less than 5 minutes.
Lift the ice maker gently off of the 2 top screws
Unplug the icemaker wiring harness from the back of the refrigerator, and remove
Snap off the end of the maker and remove the keeper for the wire arm
Remove the wire arm and install on new maker
Unplug the wiring harness from the old maker and plug into the new one
Plug the harness into the refrigerator, slip the new maker over the top screws, with the water feed tube inserted into the maker
Install bottom screw into the bracket that holds it in place.
This took less than 5 minutes.
Parts Used:
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Loren from Indianapolis, IN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 3 people
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Replaced Ice Maker
Followed the online PartSelect video instructions and it was very helpful. The ice maker has to cycle through before it starts making ice so don't be alarmed when nothing happens when you first hook it up.
Parts Used:
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Steven from Clinton Corners, NY
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
2 of 3 people
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Old Valve was dead
This was very easy and pretty fast to do and its working great...all for $40 bucks ! you can do this...trust me!
Parts Used:
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Joseph from Bloomfield Hills, MI
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers
2 of 3 people
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Quit making ice
Loosen the screws on the sidewall (don't take them all the way out and drop them on the floor as I did) and remove the screw from the bottom bracket. Change out the electrical wires and the wire level sensor that does not come with the new unit. Put the new one in place and give it some time to cool down and make ice ( don't be impatient like I was and think the new unit was bad or that you replaced the wrong part)
Parts Used:
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James from Charleston, SC
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 3 people
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Broke light switch while cleaning
use kitchen knife to pry out. replaced switch assemble and pressed back into place. Could not have done this with out help from previous customers. Thanks
Parts Used:
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Gail from Golden, CO
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
2 of 3 people
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icemaker quit working
I took out 1 screw , unplugged the icemaker and lifted it out and installed the new one and had ice in no time at all. can't get much easier.
Parts Used:
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craig from green bay, WI
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
2 of 3 people
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difficulty unplugging the power pigtail
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William from Las Cruces, NM
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
2 of 3 people
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Outer case of freezer was heating up, not making ice (sometimes) turned up thermostat several times (especially freezer)
I got the product very quickly. (thank you) Looked at online instructions that were quite vague. Pulled plug.Removed the holder for the fan motor slid it out to see what I had. Removed the mounting screws (3) and slid the motor an fan blade out. I made a cut between the wires and marked the "top" wire to motor to be sure to spin in right direction. Removing fan blade hold down clamp was NOT explained at all but I noted that the shaft on the motor was threaded, so I used pliars and held the shaft white un-screwing clamp. I cleaned the fan blades with degreaser and scraped edges of opening on holder opening. Make sure to use ALL the NEW parts included with this kit when re-installing. They send them for a reason. When slpicing and connecting wires it is a 50/50 shot if you don't mark before cutting. You can connect and try plugging fridge back for moment and make sure it is blowing OUT. Put everything back together and after turning DOWN the thermostats twice, fridge is back to usual. Ice maker is cranking out ice and outside case is cool to the touch.
Note: This can be a DIRTY job especially with 4 dogs in house. Fir and grease don't mix well
Note: This can be a DIRTY job especially with 4 dogs in house. Fir and grease don't mix well
Parts Used:
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John from Greensboro, NC
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
3 of 6 people
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Freezer was frosting up - no defrost
Found a tip online that said to check the resistance of the defrost coil, when I had none I knew the coils had burned out. Before pulling the old coil out I tied on some long pieces of string as was suggested, that made things go very quick! The hardest part was reaching to the back of the narrow freezer space, but fortunately I have long arms. So far all is working well, and I have a great deal of satisfaction knowing I did the repair myself!
Parts Used:
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Glen from Waterboro, ME
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
2 of 3 people
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