CG205W Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

Turn off the gas supply and unplug the electric supply. Remove the top grates and the burner cartridges. Remove 12 screws around the top cover and loosen the two screws for the fan switch. Pull the fan switch up and out of the way, remove the top cover. With a marking pen, label the four igniter switches and pull them off the gas valves. From underneath, remove the gas line from the pressure regulator, then remove the regulator from the pipe coming from the circular manifold. With a 3/16 socket (1/4 inch drive) or a 3/16 nut driver, remove the four screws that hold the manifold. Then from the top pull the manifold up and out. On the bottom, remove the screw (1/4 inch socket or nut driver) and remove the old gas valve. That's it. Now just put it all back together in reverse order. I used pipe joint compound on the pipe threads. Check for leaks with a soapy water solution. If I had to do this again, it would only take me half the time. I wasn't sure how everything came apart the first time..

unscrewed previous unit, placed new unit and screwed in place.

very very easy to swap out the old burner knobs and greasy old filter...less than a minute! It looks brand new....

So very easy!!!! I'm a 70 year old grandmother with a small socket set - and that's all I needed! Removed one small screw, removed old burner, popped new burner in, replaced one screw, and back in business! Placed order, received it in 2 days, fixed burner. So much faster than calling a repairman!

Removed old burner, replaced with new one, works perfectly! Only one screw to take out and use with new piece.

After getting help from customer support, I was able to order the part. I tracked the part on FED EXp.
After deliver the part was installed and working in 5 minutes. All that for less than $50.00.

The downdraft fan was not running, and there was a terrible smell. I jiggled the rocker switch and the fan ran again, then another arc and the breaker popped, so there was no more power to the unit. I opened the panel under the stove to get at the schematic to get a partnumber. Then I opened the switch cluster using a screwdriver,revealing a black burnt switch, I pulled the terminals off with a plier, then used the nut driver to remove the switch. I ordered a new switch but had to settle for a Maytag. This switch looked close enough to the original. When I got the new part I only had to file the mounting holes a little bit. Switch went in nice and terminals back, closed the cluster, braker back on, and voila the rocker switch turns the fan on/off again. What took me some time was to get the crud out that had seeped into the switch cluster. Submitted by Aedgard de Boer

Removed the two screws that hold burners on mounting bracket . Removed burners and installed new burners. re-adjusted air flow to elimenate yellow flame.

The spare part came within two days after I place the order on line. I drew a simple wire diagram of the faulty switch-regulator. Shut off the power to the stovetop, before removing the four terminals on the faulty switch-regulator. I pushed the old regulator up from the center pin and replaced it with the new regulator. The next step was to reinstall the four wire terminals using my wire diagram. Final step was to turn the power back to the stovetop and test the new switch-regulator.

First turn the power to the cooktop/fan switch panel off. Next remove the knobs used to adjust the temp of the cooking burners. Next remove the vent grill cover of the cooktop. Remove the two screws on the end of the box which houses the fan switch and burner controls. Slide box back and lift the box up. This exposes the fan swithch and burner control wiring. Remove the two wires connected to the fan switch. Remove the two self-locking washers from the two posts which hold the fan switch in place. A screwdriver works well to pry these off. Slide the fan switch assembly out. Slide the new fan switch in place over the two posts (one on each end) to align the switch. Put the self-locking washers which are packaged with the new fan switch on the posts. These can be difficult and a deep-set socket which is slightly smaller that the washers can be used to push them on. Next put the wires to the fan switch assembly on. At this point I temporarily turned the power on to test the fan switch, being careful not to touch any of the wires. If the fan operates properly, turn the power back off. Then replace the box which holds the fan switch and burner controls. Replace the two screws which hold the box in place. Replace the vent grill cover and the temp control knob tops. Turn on the power.

Simply removed the front burner using 1/4 incn nutdriver on
two screws.placed new burner in position and tightenwd two screws.
Simplest and easiest job I ever did!
Works as new!

just removed two screws - took old unit out - put new unit in.

Remove grates and pan. unscrew each burner from the metal cross mount bar, keeping in mind, the position of the cross mount bar.(Mine was not reversible.) Reverse the procedure with the new burners.
Adjust the air opening to eliminate any yellow flame. The air opening is located immediately adjacent to where the burner pipe goes into the cooktop. (Near the front of the cooktop in my case.)

Biggest problem was making sure the correct parts were ordered.

I removed cover.and cleaned the inside of the fan housing with brushes and a toothbrush. OBVIOUSLY this made a big mess, but whatever caused the squeaking problem was removed and now the exhaust fan is sounding fine!

Removed two screws and replaced burners and placed the unit back into position and the burners worked perfectly. Very easy. I think anyone could do this task.